12 steps to changing your clutch

2 Using a T-handle hex-driver or hex bit undo and remove the clutch cover. Even if you've drained the oil there may be some left inside the cover, so expect spillage

3 The old gasket should come off in one piece. If not, use a gasket scraping tool. Don't hack away with a screwdriver or you might damage the casing and it won't be oil tight

4 Undo the bolts holding the clutch together. They shouldn't be very tight. Be careful though - they're spring-loaded from behind. Once undone, put them to one side...

5 ... and remove the pressure plate. Clean it up with brake cleaner then put it safely aside. Have a look at the clutch plates so you've got an idea of how it goes back together

6 Pull the old plates out in one go. Remember, each friction plate is separated by a plain plate. Keep the stack together and put them within easy reach

7 Those dark grey indents are where the friction plates' location lugs whack into the clutch basket. If they're deep enough they can cause clutch drag, but can be carefully filed off

8 Get the new and old plates to hand. Discard the first old friction plate, put in a new one, fit the plain plate, chuck the next old friction plate, fit a new one, fit the plain plate...

9 ... and repeat until it looks like this. Ensure you put in as many friction plates as came out, but don't worry if there are new friction plates left over - some kits provide more than needed

10 Refit the pressure plate - it may only go on in one position - and fit the new springs. Do up the bolts to the specified torque setting

11 Clean up the crankcase then fit the new gasket. Put the cover in place and secure it, making sure not to overtighten any of the bolts

12 Finally, refill with oil - assuming you drained it out. If you didn't, you may still need to top it up as some may have been spilled. Job done