Used Review: Triumph Daytona T595-955i

Here was the first proper big British sports bike for many years and one which - on paper at least - promised to give the legendary FireBlade a run for its money. Cue 'Land of Hope and Glory' and much jingoistic flag waving.

But, when the flags stopped waving and the music had died down it could be argued that the original wasn't quite the bike it was hyped to be. Understandable hyperbole from the weekly motorcycle press allied to final development being inexcusably completed by the first paying customers led to the machine and its image losing some of its shine.

Eventually, while the Honda FireBlade and Yamaha R1 went off in sportier directions, Triumph quietly went about slowly refining the bike and ironing out the early bugs until it could stand alone as a machine which would become a modern classic and foster its own passionate band of owners and admirers.

If you want to try and pigeon-hole the 955i, you could simply look at it as a rarer ZX-9R. Both machines started out as sportier machines but while the 9R was always in the shadow of its sportier Japanese siblings the British bike could stand aloof from the Japanese cutting-edge competition.

Riding the T595/955 has never been as silky as swinging a leg over a Jap four, but you get a connection with the Trumpet that you simply don't get with a rice-burner. Yes the clutch can be heavy, yes your wrists can ache on the early models, sure it runs hot, but it's involving, visceral, emotive and, yes, sometimes agricultural.

Effectively, there's been a myriad of changes to the family under the skin, with three major models being easily identifiable thanks to major aesthetic changes and it would be fair to say that the bike has got better as it's got older. Finish has improved, fasteners have shrugged off the weather easier and castings have been of higher quality. So if you want a bit of British bark in your garage take a look at the 955i.

Rear suspension


Stands up to abuse and pillions fairly well it seems. The only downside is finish on the shocks from the 595 through to the latest 955i. Some shops know about this and clean the shock thoroughly before the bike ends up in the showroom. This can hide a litany of neglect, so be wary when you see some clean bits and then a few knackered bits on a bike. Question the shop/seller thoroughly.

End cans


Owners have found that a number of original and high-level 'race' end-cans can become 'leaky' over time. Easily spotted. You'll see exhaust stains around the joints or feel exhuast gases coming out of various joins on the can. Use a dab of exhaust sealant around the problem area from Halfords.

Tyres


Bridgestones are favourite for the Trumpet. They were launched with 'em and owners still love them from the BT56s through to the 020, 010 and the 014s which continue to suit the bike well. Owners also rate the Pirelli Diablo and the contemporary Metzelers.

Rear-end


Make sure that you keep the rear chain adjuster clean and lubed, its worth adjusting it once in a while just to make sure it 's 'free.' If it jams it's a bugger and a full rear hub strip is needed. Some rear-ends on the single-sided swingarms just rock anyway and play of around 0.6mm is normal at the rim.

Frames


Subject of an early recall on the first T595 model. Two types of frame weld were initially used, a butt-to-butt weld and a later dog-tooth weld with a more generous surface area of weld. Despite this, the factory acted quickly to recall and replace early frames leaving the owners happy with the way they had been treated. See recalls.

Engine


A pleasant and vibey mix of inline four and V-twin, the triple really is a motor apart from anything else you'll experience. And that sound is utterly glorious when liberated with a loud exhaust. Early models produced around 115-120bhp which meant that the triple was a real contender for power compared to Fireblades of the time, only ZX-9Rs and R1s had more power in the litre sportsbike category. The motor drives well from low rpm, hits a bit of a flat spot from around 5000rpm, before howling like a banshee from 8000rpm upwards before hitting peak power just under 9500 revs. Later models added more revs and peak power went up to around 130 real bhp at the rear-wheel at around 10,500rpm. Oil leaks are not unknown on early machines. Some owners report oil-leaks near the gearbox, or the countershaft seal or from the head gasket/cam chain area. Rare-ish, but worth looking for


Servicing: Generally every 6000 miles, with expensive ones coming up at 12k and 24k, which can cost in the region of £500. Our advice is to treat it like a Ducati and make sure whatever you buy has a full service history and preferably one from one of the better dealers. To find out who's good and who's shite, check out: www.t595.net but do take things on these websites with a pinch of salt. Many slighted customers use it to vent their spleens and it can be un-representative.

Electrics/battery/starting problems


Clocks have been known to die - sometimes as a result of something as simple as a connector not properly inserted. Speedos can misbehave: it'll work fine then read half-speed or so. Owners say it's a speedo sensor problem. Speedo problems can also make a lower mileage bike, so buyer beware... Fuses have been known to melt, and batteries that are near death mean that the bike sometimes doesn't start while the rest of the electrics will work fine. Sometimes, you'll thumb the starter to hear nothing but a click, then you'll do it again and it will start, or maybe after the third attempt. Change the battery and hey-presto, it works. Don't confuse the fuel-injection and engine management system by starting with an open throttle, either. Keep it closed when turning the engine over.

Finish


Varying on early models and much improved on later machines. Original T595 and T509 machines had some very exposed electrical connectors which would fail at the first sniff of a dose of Saxa salt. Fasteners are poo on early bikes rising to shit on older bikes: do yourself a favour and replace all with anodised bits from Mr Fastener or similar. Rear shock mounts, bodies, linkages and adjusters are also poor and get into a fur coat quicker than Zsa-Zsa Gabor at a wedding: constant attention is needed.

Fuel consumption


2001-on 955is had a further three litres in the tanks (up from 18 litres.) On the latest bikes the fuel light comes on pretty much when 13-15 litres have been consumed, meaning that theoretically you could squeeze 200 miles out of the tank. Although you're best served nipping into a garage at around the 150 mark.

Few and far between considering, although some owners have reported faulty camshaft position sensors which can be costly if attended to by a dealer. These bikes can get hot in traffic compared to a Jap four, with the fan cutting in at around 105 degrees - around five more than a Jap four. This is normal. Some owners have reported that oil pipes rubbing against the cooler have led to holes in the pipes or cooler problems. Do check behind the oil cooler and check that there's plenty of clearance between the cooler itself and the two oil pipes themselves, if not slacken them off a tad, re-route them and then re-tighten them. This could save you a new oil-cooler which is around £300-£400! Some owners have also needed replacement radiators - which can also cost a pretty penny from the factory - but custom-made ones from BHM Compak are recommended at around half the price. Try: www.bhmcompak.co.uk

Engine management light / fuel-injection


The T595 and Daytona blazed a bit of a trail for fuel-injection using the Sagem system, so it's not surprising that the engine management light would come on sporadically for a number of different reasons. Any problems are soon sorted with a trip to your local dealer whose diagnostic equipment can find out the relevant fault code and solve the problem. Owners of later machines (Daytona 955i - 2002-on) have reported some problems with the light coming on just before the fuel light when the tank is running dry, or when the tank has just been filled. Again, it's best to get the bike to a Triumph dealer who is equipped with the correct equipment to fix it. Yes, yes, perhaps carbs would have been better on the early models...

Aftermarket parts


Dead simple this one stick with Triumph-approved accessories. No, this doesn't mean they're the best (although they're pretty good) but it does mean that you will actually get something for them when you sell the bike. Many owners will not want anything other than Triumph accessories on a bike they're going to buy, so it helps come re-sale time. End-cans have been known to be too loud and leak, while some huggers have been of dubious quality and poor mouldings. Factory alarms are prevalent on second-hand models.

Recalls


Major recall in 1997 for potential cracks in frame, ignition leads, fuel pump. In 2001 potential problems with clutch cables fraying on 955 and other models, and in 2004 the possibility of some male connectors fracturing.

Clutch/Gearbox


Gearboxes are as notchy as Warren Beatty's bedpost on the earlier models and all the while the clutch can be as heavy as Giant Haystacks. Still, there are ways to improve 'em. Adjustable clutch levers for early models (around £40-£50 from Jack Lilley's - www.jacklilley.com) make gearchanges smoother. Gearboxes are a little more problematical on earlier models - the T595 especially - with initial problems being found with fourth gear. Some owners who've had fourth gear break-up after the warranty period have found that the factory will still change it for free - so while they may expect owners to do the last part of development, they do play fair, it seems. Revisions happened to rectify this on the production line, according to owners. As far as poor gearchanges are concerned, later models are better, especially with the direct lever-to-gearbox 'change which came post 1998.

Gearing


18/42 is standard now, with some owners going 18 front and 44 rear to lower the gearing away from a top-end rush. Apparently, 17-tooth and smaller front sprockets will cause excessive chain guide wear. Some owners go for 18 front, 45 rear or even 19/42. Rule of thumb: one tooth off the front is like adding three at the back.

Brakes


Very good from new, these do have to be looked after to give their best so clean calipers regularly.

Front forks


Suspension-wise they hold up really well, but externally they suffer from pitting fairly badly unless looked after and cleaned regularly. Head bearings aren't known for being shite, but do check 'em anyway.

The impact of the first Triumph T595 should not be under estimated. Here was the first proper big British sports bike for many years and one which - on paper at least - promised to give the legendary FireBlade a run for its money. Cue 'Land of Hope and Glory' and much jingoistic flag waving.

But, when the flags stopped waving and the music had died down it could be argued that the original wasn't quite the bike it was hyped to be. Understandable hyperbole from the weekly motorcycle press allied to final development being inexcusably completed by the first paying customers led to the machine and its image losing some of its shine.

Eventually, while the Honda FireBlade and Yamaha R1 went off in sportier directions, Triumph quietly went about slowly refining the bike and ironing out the early bugs until it could stand alone as a machine which would become a modern classic and foster its own passionate band of owners and admirers.

If you want to try and pigeon-hole the 955i, you could simply look at it as a rarer ZX-9R. Both machines started out as sportier machines but while the 9R was always in the shadow of its sportier Japanese siblings the British bike could stand aloof from the Japanese cutting-edge competition.

Riding the T595/955 has never been as silky as swinging a leg over a Jap four, but you get a connection with the Trumpet that you simply don't get with a rice-burner. Yes the clutch can be heavy, yes your wrists can ache on the early models, sure it runs hot, but it's involving, visceral, emotive and, yes, sometimes agricultural.

Effectively, there's been a myriad of changes to the family under the skin, with three major models being easily identifiable thanks to major aesthetic changes and it would be fair to say that the bike has got better as it's got older. Finish has improved, fasteners have shrugged off the weather easier and castings have been of higher quality. So if you want a bit of British bark in your garage take a look at the 955i.

��

Rear suspension
Stands up to abuse and pillions fairly well it seems. The only downside is finish on the shocks from the 595 through to the latest 955i. Some shops know about this and clean the shock thoroughly before the bike ends up in the showroom. This can hide a litany of neglect, so be wary when you see some clean bits and then a few knackered bits on a bike. Question the shop/seller thoroughly.

End cans
Owners have found that a number of original and high-level 'race' end-cans can become 'leaky' over time. Easily spotted. You'll see exhaust stains around the joints or feel exhuast gases coming out of various joins on the can. Use a dab of exhaust sealant around the problem area from Halfords.

Tyres
Bridgestones are favourite for the Trumpet. They were launched with 'em and owners still love them from the BT56s through to the 020, 010 and the 014s which continue to suit the bike well. Owners also rate the Pirelli Diablo and the contemporary Metzelers.

Rear-end
Make sure that you keep the rear chain adjuster clean and lubed, its worth adjusting it once in a while just to make sure it 's 'free.' If it jams it's a bugger and a full rear hub strip is needed. Some rear-ends on the single-sided swingarms just rock anyway and play of around 0.6mm is normal at the rim.

Frames
Subject of an early recall on the first T595 model. Two types of frame weld were initially used, a butt-to-butt weld and a later dog-tooth weld with a more generous surface area of weld. Despite this, the factory acted quickly to recall and replace early frames leaving the owners happy with the way they had been treated. See recalls.

Engine
A pleasant and vibey mix of inline four and V-twin, the triple really is a motor apart from anything else you'll experience. And that sound is utterly glorious when liberated with a loud exhaust. Early models produced  around 115-120bhp which meant that the triple was a real contender for power compared to Fireblades of the time, only ZX-9Rs and R1s had more power in the litre sportsbike category. The motor drives well from low rpm, hits a bit of a flat spot from around 5000rpm, before howling like a banshee from 8000rpm upwards before hitting peak power just under 9500 revs. Later models added more revs and peak power went up to around 130 real bhp at the rear-wheel at around 10,500rpm.  Oil leaks are not unknown on early machines. Some owners report oil-leaks near the gearbox, or the countershaft seal or from the head gasket/cam chain area. Rare-ish, but worth looking for.

Servicing
Generally every 6000 miles, with expensive ones coming up at 12k and 24k, which can cost in the region of £500. Our advice is to treat it like a Ducati and make sure whatever you buy has a full service history and preferably one from one of the better dealers. To find out who's good and who's shite, check out: www.t595.net but do take things on these websites with a pinch of salt. Many slighted customers use it to vent their spleens and it can be un-representative.

Electrics/battery/starting problems
Clocks have been known to die - sometimes as a result of something as simple as a connector not properly inserted. Speedos can misbehave: it'll work fine then read half-speed or so. Owners say it's a speedo sensor problem. Speedo problems can also make a lower mileage bike, so buyer beware... Fuses have been known to melt, and batteries that are near death mean that the bike sometimes doesn't start while the rest of the electrics will work fine. Sometimes, you'll thumb the starter to hear nothing but a click, then you'll do it again and it will start, or maybe after the third attempt. Change the battery and hey-presto, it works. Don't confuse the fuel-injection and engine management system by starting with an open throttle, either. Keep it closed when turning the engine over.

Finish
Varying on early models and much improved on later machines. Original T595 and T509 machines had some very exposed electrical connectors which would fail at the first sniff of a dose of Saxa salt. Fasteners are poo on early bikes rising to shit on older bikes: do yourself a favour and replace all with anodised bits from Mr Fastener or similar. Rear shock mounts, bodies, linkages and adjusters are also poor and get into a fur coat quicker than Zsa-Zsa Gabor at a wedding: constant attention is needed.

Fuel consumption
2001-on 955is had a further three litres in the tanks (up from 18 litres.) On the latest bikes the fuel light comes on pretty much when 13-15 litres have been consumed, meaning that theoretically you could squeeze 200 miles out of the tank. Although you're best served nipping into a garage at around the 150 mark.

Few and far between considering, although some owners have reported faulty camshaft position sensors which can be costly if attended to by a dealer. These bikes can get hot in traffic compared to a Jap four, with the fan cutting in at around 105 degrees - around five more than a Jap four. This is normal. Some owners have reported that oil pipes rubbing against the cooler have led to holes in the pipes or cooler problems. Do check behind the oil cooler and check that there's plenty of clearance between the cooler itself and the two oil pipes themselves, if not slacken them off a tad, re-route them and then re-tighten them. This could save you a new oil-cooler which is around £300-£400! Some owners have also needed replacement radiators - which can also cost a pretty penny from the factory - but custom-made ones from BHM Compak are recommended at around half the price.

Engine management light / fuel-injection
The T595 and Daytona blazed a bit of a trail for fuel-injection using the Sagem system, so it's not surprising that the engine management light would come on sporadically for a number of different reasons. Any problems are soon sorted with a trip to your local dealer whose diagnostic equipment can find out the relevant fault code and solve the problem. Owners of later machines (Daytona 955i - 2002-on) have reported some problems with the light coming on just before the fuel light when the tank is running dry, or when the tank has just been filled. Again, it's best to get the bike to a Triumph dealer who is equipped with the correct equipment to fix it. Yes, yes, perhaps carbs would have been better on the early models...

Aftermarket parts
Dead simple this one stick with Triumph-approved accessories. No, this doesn't mean they're the best (although they're pretty good) but it does mean that you will actually get something for them when you sell the bike. Many owners will not want anything other than Triumph accessories on a bike they're going to buy, so it helps come re-sale time. End-cans have been known to be too loud and leak, while some huggers have been of dubious quality and poor mouldings. Factory alarms are prevalent on second-hand models.

Recalls
Major recall in 1997 for potential cracks in frame, ignition leads, fuel pump. In 2001 potential problems with clutch cables fraying on 955 and other models, and in 2004 the possibility of some male connectors fracturing.

Clutch/Gearbox
Gearboxes are as notchy as Warren Beatty's bedpost on the earlier models and all the while the clutch can be as heavy as Giant Haystacks. Still, there are ways to improve 'em. Adjustable clutch levers for early models (around £40-£50 from Jack Lilley's - www.jacklilley.com) make gearchanges smoother. Gearboxes are a little more problematical on earlier models - the T595 especially - with initial problems being found with fourth gear. Some owners who've had fourth gear break-up after the warranty period have found that the factory will still change it for free - so while they may expect owners to do the last part of development, they do play fair, it seems. Revisions happened to rectify this on the production line, according to owners. As far as poor gearchanges are concerned, later models are better, especially with the direct lever-to-gearbox 'change which came post 1998.

Gearing
18/42 is standard now, with some owners going  18 front and 44 rear to lower the gearing away from a top-end rush. Apparently, 17-tooth and smaller front sprockets will cause excessive chain guide wear. Some owners go for 18 front, 45 rear or even 19/42. Rule of thumb: one tooth off the front is like adding three at the back.

Brakes
Very good from new, these do have to be looked after to give their best so clean calipers regularly.

Front forks
Suspension-wise they hold up really well, but externally they suffer from pitting fairly badly unless looked after and cleaned regularly. Head bearings aren't known for being shite, but do check 'em anyway.

��