Rover V8 Weber/Eddy carb & manifold, swap. Problem with t/stat clearance.

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Rover V8 Weber/Eddy carb & manifold, swap. Problem with t/stat clearance.

We are mildly miffed, cracking weather today, just right to get the new Edelbrock Performer manifold on when I find out that the new thermostat housing (with built in return pipe) that came with the manifold, actually fouls the dizzy vac bit by some margin. There is no way I can see that this manifold is ever going to fit as long as it has this thermostat housing. I could chop 1.5 inches off the end but the rubber hose would still be making contact with the vac mechanism.

Pics attached.

Any ideas?

Can you take the hose off altogether then offer up the manifold to see what actual room is left then make a decision from there. Perhaps you can modify somthing after you have viewed it in its final position.

Just had a look on RPi and it would appear I need one of these...Instead of this....

Zanx wrote

Just had a look on RPi and it would appear I need one of these...Instead of this....

Damn thats a shame I threw 2 of those out last week Guess you wont be fitting it today then.

Why don't you turn the distributor around so the vaccum unit is clearing, then rotate the leads in the cap and set up ignition timing again.You should only need a quarter turn at the most, find number one firing position on cap and rearrange leads.

Big Red wrote

Why don't you turn the distributor around so the vaccum unit is clearing, then rotate the leads in the cap and set up ignition timing again.You should only need a quarter turn at the most, find number one firing position on cap and rearrange leads.

Not enough room. The rubber hose still needs an excape route and I don't want it rubbing on anything. I'll just get the right housing (and maybe the throttle/kickdown bracket too)

cut the neck off at the base , rotate it and reweld it ? all its gotta be is water tight

you should be able to buy an offset housing

RC18T wrote

cut the neck off at the base , rotate it and reweld it ? all its gotta be is water tight

Easy for you to say! Going to order the offset one tomorrow and at the same time, have words with the person who sold me the "Everything you'll need" conversion kit, yes, I have everything except a way to connect the throttle and choke cables.

I bought one when i had my pontiac as i changed my manifold from a standard one to an offenhauser type

Vicvomitt wrote

I bought one when i had my pontiac as i changed my manifold from a standard one to an offenhauser type

It wasn't this tricky when I did the same conversion to my Dodge 880.

Zanx wrote

It wasn't this tricky when I did the same conversion to my Dodge 880.

i want that brin services st albans have always given me top notch advice and parts before,an old balding guy with half moon glasses used to own it dont know if he still does, but he knows everything to do with carbs and associated stuff, stocks loads of the lil things you never think he would have

Holy crap, RPi cetainly know how to make a profit, £65 for a 4wd thermostat housing, delivered I have to buy it though. The reply from V8 Tuner was that the dizzy is in the wrong position and needs moving. How can I do this without messing up the timing?

as was said by someone else, you will need to rotate the dizzy either by lifting it out and rotating then re-engaging the drive, or if you're lucky just slacken the clamp mech' and rotate it ...then swap the plug leads to the correct firing order and reset the timing ...none of this should be difficult and "should" take no more than half an hour...some dizzys are driven by a worm drive, some by a key (offset or central) and some by and hex drive shaft, i've no idea which yours will be but none of it will be hard to work out...if it's a "points" system all i do is static time them using a bulb with 2 croc clips across the points

only way to do it without messing up the timing Z is to either lock the rotor-arm in what ever position its in now or mark the center of it against the dizzy body or something else thats fixed as when you replace the dizzy thats all that matters is that the rotor-arm goes back in exactly the same place in relation to the dizzy body as that cap locates on notches.if your a tooth out either way you will notice it when you refit the dizzy, just dont turn the engine over till your sure its timed up right

I've messed about with Rover V8's in the past, on race cars & when I put one in a Light weight. It looks to me as if the dizzy is in the wrong place as that thermostat housing is the same as the origional (I think, it's been a while & my manuals are all in the loft!!!) so it shouldn't be fouling the dizzy.Judging by the pics I'm guesing that you've got an SD1 motor there as it looks like an electronic ignition that was used on the SD1's.The dizzy drive on Rover V8's are actually a worm drive off the cam with the bottom of the dizzy shaft being used to run the oil pump. On pre SD1 engines the oil pump drive shaft had a slot in it that located in the bottom of the worm gear. SD1 engines were slightly different in that the oil pump drive was now seperate to the worm gear in what is similar to a universal joint & was an absolute sod to locate in the oil pump shaft.

Have you tried asking the question on www.v-8.org.uk - plenty of rv8 lovers on there...Cheers, Martin

RVF wrote

I've messed about with Rover V8's in the past, on race cars & when I put one in a Light weight. It looks to me as if the dizzy is in the wrong place as that thermostat housing is the same as the origional (I think, it's been a while & my manuals are all in the loft!!!) so it shouldn't be fouling the dizzy.Judging by the pics I'm guesing that you've got an SD1 motor there as it looks like an electronic ignition that was used on the SD1's.The dizzy drive on Rover V8's are actually a worm drive off the cam with the bottom of the dizzy shaft being used to run the oil pump. On pre SD1 engines the oil pump drive shaft had a slot in it that located in the bottom of the worm gear. SD1 engines were slightly different in that the oil pump drive was now seperate to the worm gear in what is similar to a universal joint & was an absolute sod to locate in the oil pump shaft.

The original outlet is exactly the same as the new one (goes straight up and 30 degrees or so to the right) with the exception of the return pipe cast into it to replace the pipe in the original manifold that the Eddy doesn't have. This is basically the one thatgot delivered yesterday. Even with twisting the dizzy, it would still be tight and the last thing I need is a breakdown because the pipe has rubbed on something and split. Next challenge is the throttle linkage mount. Woohoo

Did you ever solve the throttle linkage issue? (Same issue here…)   

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