Meta 357T V2 removal problem

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Meta 357T V2 removal problem

Hi Guys/Girls

sorry my first post is a question am desperate, 2 days searching 

I have been reading and reading but failed to find a solution to my problem.

I have removed a faulty Meta 357t V2 from a gsxr 1000 k3 the removal was pretty obvious as most wires were piggy backed onto others.

the starter wire was split which i reconnected.

the last 3 wires i had to remove were all black with a single green hoop on about  20mm's apart, one went to a white block about 10mm x 15mm with 6 wires in they are all black (some with white lines, 2 green hoops, and 1 green hoop) a black cap on and a connecting plate underneath which connected them all together (pretty sure its rear indicator related)

the other 2 looked like an obvious join together job but if i do i blow the 15amp fuse

One of the wires is permanent live and the other becomes live if i turn the kill switch on(position to start bike)

The bike turns over but the pump doesn't prime and i just get chec on dash displayed.

On a track day wednesday so desperate to solve problem.

I don't mind bringing bike somewhere or paying for someone to come to me.

I am in Chester, Cheshire.

 

fingers crossed

 

Mark

Update to thread. All sorted Just in case anyone has a similar problem as the k3's fitted with these are probably due to cause trouble. The problem i had was an erratic response from the unit and then it started to behave like a bad battery (solenoid was clicking rapidly) The wires that went to the block of black and black/white wires was a bunch of earths, this wire was a red herring as such, just an earth connection for the Meta (taped up and left) The other black wire with green loops on that was connected to the fuse box again was a red herring, switched live feed to the Meta. taped up and left. The third black wire with green hoops disappeared into the loom and headed towards the front of the bike, i stripped the loom back and found it was connected to the orange/yellow wires (fuel pump etc) at a factory connection. This wire was made live by turning the kill switch on (bike to run position) it turned out that this need to be connected into the Orange/brown  that went into the ecm. There is a factory connection point on the orange/brown next to the block of earth wires All the other connection that were removed from the Meta were self explanatory.

Hi m8, glad u sorted it, i am now having a problem with my alarm (same model) when i try and start the bike (if it lets me) all i get is the solenoid clicking. I have recharged the bike battery and checked all the connections at the rear of the bike, all fuses etc and cant find anything amiss? i have read that the system alarm battery only lasts for 10 years so my bike is 11yrs old now so thinking this is whats wrong? have both key fobs and serial numbers etc. Have you got details of how to strip this unit out? Its either strip it out or bite the bullet for a new meta system???   Cheers.   Steve K

If the starter solenoid is clicking then the alarm isn't your problem.Most likely it's the battery gone duff. They can go quite suddenly and charging them up and getting a healthy reading off it doesn't necessarily mean a thing. Next likely is the starter solenoid. Then check the state of the main earth connection to the battery, and the big fat wire to the starter motor. Then check the starter motor.  

Hi  Steve you are getting the exact same problem as me, you can disable the meta if you have the code on the installation paperwork , you would need to use the ignition on and off and counting led light flashes, this would confirm the meta being the problem as it would then by pass the immobaliser.(detailed instructions on meta site) I couldn't disable mine as it was completely unresponsive.   You could start the bike if the pump is priming by bumping it or bridging the solenoid connectors at the back of the solenoid and run the bike for a bit as this is the only way to charge the battery on the Meta (while bike is running) wish I found that out before I started taking it out haha  This would give you enough charge in the battery to turn the immobiliser off via led flash sequence . if you are confident in tackling the removal then it's straight forward except the bit I struggled with.  There is also a method of just rejoining the split wires by connecting the correct terminals together in the block once the Meta is removed. (Wish I had come across this method 1st too) let me know how you get on Steve Where you located?     Tappy I appreciate your initial diagnostic for the clicking solenoid. I too thought battery, changed that still the same I even got another solenoid still the same. I went through all the things you stated as standard procedure for that problem. It was then I started looking towards the meta after a bit of research, with the battery being past it's best in the alarm it seemed to be contributing to the clicking solenoid. The only thing that let my bike start off the starter was when the alarm was removed.  Maybe the flat internal battery was creating a erratic response from the Meta.   regards   Mark  

Steve just thinking about elimination factors, like Tappy says the usual problem for clicking solenoid is The fault finding process he has outlined.  If you short out the two connections on the back of the solenoid it should turn your starter over, this would confirm your starter is ok. I have a spare working solenoid here you could try if you are local enough to eliminate that too. Just sounds exactly like my problem I have just found the pin out guide for leaving the wiring as it is and re connecting the 2 split wires via the connection block. I can't paste it on here but could email it to you   mark   

I've removed the meta pos from a TDM900 '02. I've sorted most of the wiring but........... The bike turns over but won't fire. I'm thinking one of the 5 leftover, black/green hoop wires is something to do with the injectors. What's next? TVM

I would guess you have a switch live, an earth and a permanent live not sure what the other two could be, maybe one is connected near to the ecm which will be the wire you need to connect to the fuel pump power (thats how mine was wired up) I found the one that became live and not live when the kill switch was rocked on and off was the fuel pump power which had to be connected to a wire coming out of the ecm (a meta wire was joined onto a wire going into ecm) There was an obvious previous connection point on the wire i had to join onto, you may have a wire still connected to this point, this would need connecting to the black wire with hoops on which becomes live when the kill with is in start position and turns power off when kill switch turned to stop. The meta had just split this connection and routed it through the meta 357 this may make the problem clearer. I ended up buying a haynes manual as wiring diagram was in colour and did help me find the problem. Hope you sort it out I did have a number for the Alarm man if you want it as he specialised in sorting these out, think he was from midlands way   lat me know how you get on   

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