head bearings....

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head bearings....

i had my head bearings done a while ago, the bike was fine after having them done. i haven't even done 500 miles since getting them done, no wheelies or anything either, and i haven't hit any big potholes, and the bike has that feeling of them needing doing again. do they need adjusting or something?

sorry for the stupid question, but i have no idea what (if any?) adjustment you can make to them.

They will just need tightning up. Remove the top nut. Undeneath it is a cover and lock washer. Remove the lock washer and using a drift tighten the slotted nut. Dont overdo it.

what is a drift?

better still use the right sized spanner ,or failing that use adjustable grips ,like the man says dont overtighten

Adam K wrote

what is a drift?

Gurlie suvvern word for something tha thumps

fastfitter wrote

Gurlie suvvern word for something tha thumps

Seems it's a gurly northern word as well.

fastfitter wrote

Looking at the parts fiche on www.buykawasaki.com/Default.asp? it looks like it's got circlips holding the spindle in, so they'll have to come out and drift the spindle out with a long piece of bar. You may have to unbolt the caliper from it's bracket and swing it out of the way to get room to wiggle the wheel out.Slacken the chain adjusters off and push the wheel forward so there's play in the chain to loop it off the sprocket.

Wise in the ways of the search you are young Jedi

fastfitter wrote

Wise in the ways of the search you are young Jedi

Thank you Lord Dhuku.

Take it back to whoever fitted the bearings and get them to reajust them. Should'nt cost much and will save you from butchering the nut's and damaging the bearings with dodgy drift's,punches,chissel's or grip's.They worked on old horse cart's but are not suitable for modern motorcycles.Especialy when your life depends on precise steering .Use the proper tool's , usualy a couple of C spanners.

This a from a Bandit .....Bike on centre stand or what-have-you so the front wheel's off the floor.Slacken off nut # 11 and top yoke clamp bolts # 6Lightly tighten castellated nut # 14, trying the bars from side to side as you do it. Make sure they're free to move but be aware the cables/wiring may restrict the movement. Also kneel in front of the bike and hold the bottom of the fork legs and check for backwards and forwards rock.When you're happy, re-tighten top nut # 11 and then clamp bolts # 6

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