Bandit 1200 blowing fuse

28 posts / 0 new
Last post
Bandit 1200 blowing fuse

I came off an 03 Bandit a few weeks ago. Minimal damage, really

 the risers were knocked back but easily fixed back into place

 headlights smashed but replaced with identical units

pulse generator cover smashed and replaced. A bit of the pule generator had been bent and the bike wasn't sparking but bent it back into place and it started alright.

 I also put on some crash bars for next time.

Rode the bike maybe a mile with no issues, give her a big handful away from the lights, front came up a bit and then the power just died. All electrics dead. Pulled the main fuse, and it'd blown,  stuck anohter in and it immediately blew too.

I've looked round the obvious bits (i.e the bits ive replaced) but can't seem to see anything wrong.

Where the fuck do i start to look? Gutted, it's well sunny and i'm havin to use the car

When you say Main Fuse do you mean the 30 amp on the starter solenoid?Did you put the new fuse in it and it blew immediatley, or it blew when you started the engine up?If so, I'd be looking for a broken earth somewhere, or most likely a buggered regulator which is letting excess power through it?Check the plug into it, make sure it's in snug and all wires are solid and not nipped (some regg's have two plugs)Think you know your way round but just in case, the reg/rectifier is usually on the offside of the subframe under you tail farings. If not there then look up around the round edge of the main frame, some mods have moved them to a larger surface area in a bid to dissipate more heat.Good luck!!

yeah, that's the bugger, and the new fuse blew immediately with the ignition off.I'll have a look for the regulator, by offside you mean the right side? That's the side that hit the ground so suppose that makes sense. If not that, it seems a coincidence it going right a crash. Otherwise it's gonna be a arse of a job searchin for a broken earth methinks. And no i don't know me way round that well, so the advice is helpful.  Cheers

Ok as you sit on the bike, it's the area by the rear of your right bum cheek.Or...Take the seat off.Look at the battery.There should be a small lead running from the positive battery terminal round and underneath it, it goes to the starter solenoid (or relay) that has two poles on it and usually a green 30amp fuse, and then from that a lead runs to the regulator/rectifier unit. It may be a slightly different setup on your bandit, it's years since I tinkered with a suzuki lol I'm a fireblade man thesedays.Anyway; if your fuse is blowing, the starter may have overcooked. Usually jump starting the bike and repeated attempts of long periods of cranking the engine can overheat the solenoid and cause it to blow  OR a heavy knock to it (like a crash) can damage it. It's basically a large copper coil inside it so if the coil has fractured or similar then I think it'd explain your problem of a blowing fuse. To test it I'd remove it from the circuit and stick a multi tester on both poles and see if there's a current running through it; if not, there's your answer.If that checks out ok, then I'd bet the regulator has gone. It's job is to ensure the correct voltage is running back into the battery when riding; too lolw and it saves it up and then delivers it when correct, or too high and it drops the voltage down and then allows it through to recharge the battery, kinda idea.So if the regulator has been blown or damaged (they do burn out over time if there is an inherent bad earth on the system as a lot of 'blades do) then it'll start to allow excess voltage back into the battery and it's easy to spot when this happens as fuses start to pop, lights blow, and you have dimming lights when idling and laboured idling when you have lights on.I'd start there mate, the solenoid and then the reg/rec.If it's neither, then the nipped earth wire somewhere due to the crash could be the culprit.Simply, I'd drop the fairing off and start visibily tracing the wires on the main loom and checking the connections. I'm sure someone else can offer a more competent electrical method but in the absence of any other replies you're stuck with me lolIt's not going to be major job, just a tad tedious as you're groping in the dark and most likely in virgin territory; next time you experience something like this it'll probably only take half and hour to find the problem lolKeep me posted; I'm off to work so won;t be back till 10pm, you'll have sorted it by then lolIf you know someone else with a bandit maybe borrow their solenoid and reg/rec for a while to narrow down the problem, but bear in mind if you blow their reg/rec you're in for buying two lolRegards

I'd found the 30 amp fuse and all the gubbins attcahed round/to it seemed alright, plus it's on the opposite side to the crash damage. So i'm thinking it's probably not that. However, mate, you're a star, and I do think you've sussed it out for me."Usually jump starting the bike and repeated attempts of long periods of cranking the engine can overheat the solenoid and cause it to blow  OR a heavy knock to it (like a crash) can damage it"I must have run the battery flat 1/2 a dozen times trying to get a spark before someone pointed me towards the pulse generator.  And i'm thinking that would explain why it ran ok when i was pottering, but the second I gave her some it cut out. . . the sudden surge of power through it?Anyroad, i'lll get the thing off tonight. I hope it's that, cos like you say, I really don't fancy the tedium of checking through all the wiring (as good a learning experience as that may be)oh and as far as "I'm sure someone else can offer a more competent electrical method but in the absence of any other replies you're stuck with me lol" I think you're doing good. My mates idea was to bridge the fuse connection and listen to what crackles. . . .i'm not entirely comfortable with that option

Giving the bike a fistful wouldn't overheat the starter solenoid, that's only in use when you're cranking it over. The 30A fuse on top of the solenoid supplys the ignition switch which then goes back via an orange wire to the fuse box for all the circuits when you switch on. So if the fuse is blowing when it's inserted (nothing switched on) then it would point to a trapped/chaffed wire up to or at the ignition switch. Some Suzis get this problem where the harness is cable-tied to the steering head/fairing backet - the tie is tight and bar movement wears through the insulation over time. They can also wear if the harness comes through a hole in the frame or out from under the tank.It could also be the red wire that comes from the generator but I reckon you'd have to give it a heavy knock to disturb that one.

At last, someone with Suzi knowledge lolWell for me, that period when you flattened the battery trying to start her is cause enough to check out the solenoid, if you actually felt how hot they get in a matter of seconds you'd realise how they can overheat.If it ain't that, even if you find the culprit, I'd expect starter solenoid problems in the future. I got stung like that a few times until I met an ex-Honda team electrician and all round wonder lol and he strongly advised trying to start a bike maximum of 3 times and then let it sit for a good 10 minutes to let the unit cool off before trying again, or buy a new solenoid every year lolLet's not forget there may be (dare I say it) MORE than one problem so when you find the solution to one, there may be yet another underlying cause hiding away.Keep us posted!!

mornin' all!Yeah I pulled the starter relay solenoid wotsit and took it to a mate with a multi-tester, and it's fine (for now )I spent a good hour crawling round the thing and cannot for the life of me find any bare/frayed /broken wires . . . .i didn't take the tank off though. Suppose I gotta do that next to really get inside and if that fails, take the alternator to bits? (though from what fastfitter says that shouldn't be it) meh

Errr, I thought the 'alternator' IS the starter solenoid?Dunno what else to suggest.The symtpoms you describe point (historically) to the reg/rec with a solenoid porblem, or the harness worn through causing a short, or at very worst a knackered cdi?"pulse generator cover smashed and replaced. A bit of the pulse generator had been bent and the bike wasn't sparking but bent it back into place and it started alright."That may be your cause if all the other suggestions fail; bent and rebent back into shape, worked temporarily and now failed? Get them spanners out lol 

Sorry,i'm such a numpty when it comes to mechanical terms.  I tested the starter relay(i thought thats what you meant), the bit that comes straight from the + lead of the battery & that has the 30 amp fuse plugging into it. . . we must have been talkin at cross purposes. I've had me spanners out, and everything around the pulse generaor looks fine. The wires are all fine, everything's lined up. I only had to bend a little 'L' shaped bracket back a couple of mm - I didn't need my hammer, in fact i've not used it once, yet So plan is this weekend to take off the tank and have a proper good look round for anything broken. If that fails pull the alternator. If THAT fails bite the bullet and pay someone. man, I need a drink

I'm beginning to need one too lolWell I know someone else who came to our village last week for the download, they rode down from up north no an Sv650 with luggage etc.The bike literally just stalled and I stopped to help them.Did all the above, they too had an ident problem with the 30 amp solenoid fuse blowing everytime a new one was put in the moment it made contact.They were AA'd back home and last night they say their bike shop reckon their cdi unit has gone; their meta alarm has been fried too. They had no crashes etc, keep the bike well maintained, don't stunt or anything and is on trickle charge when not in use.At that time I figured their luggage had blocked up the small air vent on the tail fairing and caused the reg/rec to overheat on their journey but seems that's not the problem. So maybe that off you had has shorted out something in the immobiliser system if you had one.At times like this I'd be taking all the fairings off, seat etc, and working from the battery (once you're happy with battery terminals and the leads (not damaged and exposed and shirting out onto the fram etc) and checking each feed from it. It's definitely a short, so it's either damaged wiring or damaged unit.

fucking Suzukis man, maybe I need a Honda. nah, no alarm, but bike's had a hard life, ridden all year round, with just 1 service/year and oil top ups, is thrashed chucked around and wheelied far too often,. . . . .mind you until now she's never given me a mo's bother up until now, despite her being cat d written off a couple of years back. Poor thing, she deserves fixing, she's earned it.

Very unlikely a knackered CDi unit will blow the main fuse but possible. Best check is to disconnect the wiring plug on the ignition switch and then check there's no continuity to earth on any of  the wires going back into the harness - except for the Black with White tracer wire which is an earth.

Yeah that sounds worth checking, if it were a blade I'd be right on it mate but I'm lost with anything else.My money is still on the solenoid though; a hard knock and/or all that trying to start her is an almost certain bet that it's blown. I know you said you checked it but easiest and least frustrating is stick a borrwed one in and try turning her over, I bet she fires up lol

If the solenoid checks out OK your best bet is the headstock area like Fstfitter has mentioned. It's infamous on the Bandit for chaffed wiring and obviously had a good pull/knock if the risers were bent.
BTW stop looking for the reg/reg and it's wiring they're built into the actual alternator on a Bandit not seperate like most bikes.

thanks everyone, all adice is beeing heeded and has at least given me a plan. Hopefully I'll get to the bottom if it this w/end. I'll keep you posted. 

Darkman wrote (see)

Yeah that sounds worth checking, if it were a blade I'd be right on it mate but I'm lost with anything else.My money is still on the solenoid though; a hard knock and/or all that trying to start her is an almost certain bet that it's blown. I know you said you checked it but easiest and least frustrating is stick a borrwed one in and try turning her over, I bet she fires up lol

yeah, I said i'd checked it, but that's cos i'm an idiot. I'd actually checked the starter relay.If all else fails it's trip to the breakers then, as I know no one else with a Bandit. Although I do have an '86 GSXR750 in me garage (that doesn't run either) maybe they'll interchange, I know some bits do. . . . [runs off to google]

Finally, people with intimate Suzi knowledge lolOver to you guys.

TongPo wrote (see)

yeah, I said i'd checked it, but that's cos i'm an idiot. I'd actually checked the starter relay.

I reckon, depending on your age, you checked the same thing Us oldies tend to refer to them as solenoids and the newer Jap-speak calls them starter relays - they're the same thing really. A low-current coil of wire is energised by pushing the starter button. This coil magnetises a rod inside the coil which moves and closes two heavy-current contacts to operate the starter motor. If you didn't have one you'd need a starter button the size of a half-crown and cables like rope See what Bez says about the wiring round the headstock, he's a Bandit maestro. The Suzuki RF range suffer the same problem but in a slightly different place.Also worth noting - sometimes you can suffer a complete electrical black-out but all fuses, battery etc are fine. The problem is the wiring plug on top of the solenoid/starter relay. Over time the small pins in the plug get corroded and can stop the current. Simply waggling the plug can get you home but they need a clean-up with electrical spray and a fine bit of emery - the missus's nail board is perfect.

Yes.Indeed.Older hondas were dreadful for oxidisation on pins etc so much so that it added resistance to circuits and it was (and still is for those os with lovely RRw's) a royal pain trying to buzz circuits out and trace faults.A nice big blob of suitable grease once the plugs are cleaned up sorts it, but what a job diagnosing it in the first place lol

fastfitter wrote (see)

I reckon, depending on your age, you checked the same thing Us oldies tend to refer to them as solenoids and the newer Jap-speak calls them starter relays - they're the same thing really.

it's a little box with a cylinder clipped into it, and to which the fuse in question fits, about 6" from the battry on the positive lead.

fastfitter wrote (see)

See what Bez says about the wiring round the headstock, he's a Bandit maestro. The Suzuki RF range suffer the same problem but in a slightly different place..

duly noted and my first port of callThaks to all of ya. . . .fingers crossed on Monday i can report a running motorcycle

she lives!!!!  When I put the crash bars on i've pinched a wire goin into the alternator thanks all for the advice

Yay!!!!Well done mate lolA 2p piece of wire, all that grief, eh?(Still say you should check that reg/rec) pmsl

took fookin hours, cha.I bet that goes next, just bet ya. . . . .

Best get out and thrash it afore it goes then lol

well i'm glad i got her going. It allows me to hear the horrible tapping noise coming from round the headers/front end

Check the header bolts are tight, a loose one makes a terminal tapping sound

cheeers, i'll do that,  and i can't tell you how much i hope it is just that

I'm glad this thread is still open. It really helped when the electrics went completely on my Bandit. Cheers!

Log in or register to post comments