'95 transit diesel... wont start

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'95 transit diesel... wont start

MOT due, tax due, insurance due... not great timing but hey...

was at snetterton on saturday, everything VERY wet/windy. When it came time to go home, van wouldnt start. it would turn over nicely, but nothing firing.

the other half kept going on asking if it needed a jump, so to keep her quiet, i tried jump starting it. same result. then, as we were hooked up anyway, i decided to keep the starter on for about 30 seconds. It then fired up into life and was trouble free for the journey home.

on the sunday morning, it started ok. In the evening, i noticed the battery light illuminating when the revs were up, and extinguishing when revs were low.
This i figured to be an alternator problem, so i have ordered a replacement.

On monday evening, it refused to do anything. Dead battery. Completely not a scooby from it.
Tried jump starting from other halfs car, but the starter wouldnt turn, just did click pause click pause click
Charged another (probably not brilliant) battery overnight, hooked my jump leads to it, and same thing - click pause click pause click pause.

i would have thought that getting a jump off a running car should work still, even if the alternator and battery is fried? Any other suggestions??

thanks

Well, the battery is probably knackered for starters, it takes a good battery to start those old 2.5's!When it turned over and wouldn't start, thats probably the fuel cut off solenoid on the pump, they go all the time, and churning it has killed the battery.Dunno much aboul electrickery, but if a tranny turns over OK and won't start, it's fuel or summat mechanical, most likely that dicky cut-off!

click pause click pause and diddley squat tells me there's not enough current/voltage getting to the starter motor , also not enough getting to the cutoff solenoid ....check your battery with a multimeter before and after trying to turn it over and see if the volts are above 12 (that low is looking tired, below and it's flat or fooked) ...check your earth connections and positive connections (including on the starter, alternator and engine to bodyshell) as if ya got bugger all with "good" to excellent jump leads (most people don't realise thier jump leads ain't worth thier scrap value ) then i'd say you have poor to crap connections

Duff glow plugs perhaps being the original reason why it wouldn't start. Get somi easy start!

crap... where the heck are the glow plugs, and what they look like??will check connections again (checked battery to starter and battery to alternator, didnt check engine to shell...)perhaps i oughta pick up another battery too, to be sure i've got a decent one to start with...

troutslayer wrote

crap... where the heck are the glow plugs, and what they look like??will check connections again (checked battery to starter and battery to alternator, didnt check engine to shell...)perhaps i oughta pick up another battery too, to be sure i've got a decent one to start with...

See the things that are screwed into the cylinder head - like spark plugs? They are your glowplugs Glow plugs are on a timer - is there a fuse for the glowplug timer relay?

dunno. but at the mo, it doesnt turn over anyway, so i guess getting it turning over again would be a good place to start

My car wouldn't start the other week. The very nice man diagnosed at least three failed glow plugs.. Diesels only need fuel and compression to run. Slacken an injector and turn the engine over. If fuel squirts out then thats good. If the engine turns over as normal on the starter then thats also good. Can then only be glow plugs. Some easy start down the air intake as close to the engine as you can will get it running and i'll probably run okay for the rest of the day, you only need the glow plugs for very cold starts.

Err, the 2.5 DI doesn't have glow plugs IIRC?

locate the fuel filter and see if it has got a black plunger on top if so see if it will press down realllly easily if so then it may be that the plunger is knackerd as this is the primer for the fuel pump and may be allowing fuel to run back to tank hence firing up after 30 seconds or so this is a comon fault as ford keep these in stock hmm wonder y (nige)

Bugger, beaten to it!

troutslayer wrote

i would have thought that getting a jump off a running car should work still, even if the alternator and battery is fried? Any other suggestions??thanks

Nope, my old 2.5 Tranny wouldn't jump start at all. I always had to remove the old battery and wire the spare straight in. It would never get enough juice to start via the jump leads. With a good battery in it though, it never failed to start, only had problems when the battery was duff.BTW, 2.5DI's don't have glow plugs.

Once you get it going, may be an idea to fit a split system with 2 batteries. A mate of mine has his Tranny set up like this with a master switch in the glove box. Both batteries charge while you're driving but when you park up at meets, the main one can be isolated so you can run stereo, interior light etc from the spare without flattening the main battery. If required you can hook both together for starting.

nickmurphy wrote

tranny 2.5 diesels don't have glow plugs so don't waste time looking for them

Ooops

Oafus Maximus wrote

Err, the 2.5 DI doesn't have glow plugs IIRC

Double ooops Surely they have some heating arrangement for the bleak British winter?Paul, knows little about trannys err transits

Flyingjelly wrote

Ooops Double ooops Surely they have some heating arrangement for the bleak British winter?Paul, knows little about trannys err transits

Nope, the injector fires the diesel straight into the combustion chamber, it's quite violent too, thats why trannys have that distinctive clatter.Of course the real answer would be to buy an LDV!

they will jump start but £10.99 Halfords Jump leads aren't going to do it.Being a sparky i put a set of croc clips onto some 25mm cables. That'll jump anything. Having the car running or not won't affect how much current the leads will pass.

Rich_H wrote

Once you get it going, may be an idea to fit a split system with 2 batteries. A mate of mine has his Tranny set up like this with a master switch in the glove box. Both batteries charge while you're driving but when you park up at meets, the main one can be isolated so you can run stereo, interior light etc from the spare without flattening the main battery. If required you can hook both together for starting.

If anyone was to do this, I'd advise some caution! You don't need a particularly heavy gauge of cable to charge the battery with, but you do if you plan to use it for starting. This would also apply to any switch you use, the contacts must be rated for the currents used during starting. You be better of using a remote relay for that. Worst case scenario, you could go up in flames!The system in my Boxer uses a circuit to detect the voltage on the main battery before it switches on a relay to the secondary battery for charging. It then switches itself off when the engine is turned off. Leaves no room for error on my part, eg leaving the two batterys connected and flattening them both listening to CDs, connecting a flat battery to a good one with no engine running etc etc. The wiring is rated to cope with 500W of stereo, but even then I wouldn't chance using it to boost starting.

troutslayer wrote

MOT due, tax due, insurance due... not great timing but hey...was at snetterton on saturday, everything VERY wet/windy. When it came time to go home, van wouldnt start. it would turn over nicely, but nothing firing.the other half kept going on asking if it needed a jump, so to keep her quiet, i tried jump starting it. same result. then, as we were hooked up anyway, i decided to keep the starter on for about 30 seconds. It then fired up into life and was trouble free for the journey home.on the sunday morning, it started ok. In the evening, i noticed the battery light illuminating when the revs were up, and extinguishing when revs were low.This i figured to be an alternator problem, so i have ordered a replacement.On monday evening, it refused to do anything. Dead battery. Completely not a scooby from it.Tried jump starting from other halfs car, but the starter wouldnt turn, just did click pause click pause clickCharged another (probably not brilliant) battery overnight, hooked my jump leads to it, and same thing - click pause click pause click pause.i would have thought that getting a jump off a running car should work still, even if the alternator and battery is fried? Any other suggestions??thanks

Ive got a Haynes manual for a Transit if you want to borrow it.

Ah, well I've learn't that 2.5 tranny's don't have glow plugs!

ST2 wrote

Ah, well I've learn't that 2.5 tranny's don't have glow plugs!

me too!righto, thanks everyone for the tips.my replacement alternator (and indicator switch, and bumper end cap) arrived today, so i'll fit the alternator on saturday, and grab a new battery then take it from there.I found a possible live>earth last night, where someone has had a switch of some sort in the cab and removed the switch, the live wire was still loose and hanging about in the engine bay close to some metal, so i've removed that loose cable.

sounds like air in the system to me you can rig up a small tank using a gallon container and keep it slightly higher than the engine prime the fuel system then try to fire it up it should start within 1/2 second also the electrical cut out solenoid on the fuel injector pump can be taken off and you can then remove the small plunger this will allow you to run the engine to test if the solenoid is working ? trouble is the motor wont turn off now so you will have to stall it my money is on air in the system there is also a one way valve fitted on the top of the injector pump this can fail and if you leave the engine off for a long time the fuel can return back to the tank hence starting problems

Sorted. Put a new alternator on and a new battery and she fired up no problem. Also fitted indicator switch (left was a bit intermittent - not much fun when towing a caravan) and a bumper cap. Middle and rear sections of the exhaust have massive holes in so they're going to be replaced

Re: Noise...They're noisy because they're direct injection but not that sophisticated DI. Those petrol like diesels you get in BMW's and the like these days are cleverer.Sophisticated diesels spray in a little bit of fuel, then a bit more and then the full whack, then they trail off the injection again. Sorta eases the engine in and out of the combustion stroke if that makes any sense. The tranny engine just goes WHALLOP and shoves the whole dose in at once, so the engine kinda goes "ARRGGHHH! FUEL!" and burns the whole lot up in a big ol' noisy bang.S'also why trannies smoke when you put your foot down...all that fuel being sprayed in at once makes the engine run rich.

Mr. Dazzle wrote

Re: Noise...They're noisy because they're direct injection but not that sophisticated DI. Those petrol like diesels you get in BMW's and the like these days are cleverer.Sophisticated diesels spray in a little bit of fuel, then a bit more and then the full whack, then they trail off the injection again. Sorta eases the engine in and out of the combustion stroke if that makes any sense. The tranny engine just goes WHALLOP and shoves the whole dose in at once, so the engine kinda goes "ARRGGHHH! FUEL!" and burns the whole lot up in a big ol' noisy bang.S'also why trannies smoke when you put your foot down...all that fuel being sprayed in at once makes the engine run rich.

Makes perfect sense, had a run in a chipped 330d, Jesus, it was FAST!!!!!!!Lovely wave of torque, handled like a real car should, just out of my league financially! Mind you, I love the GT TDi 150 Golf, as quick as you'll ever need and 45mpg, Lovely!

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