pup project 1986 honda cb 125 super dream

121 posts / 0 new
Last post

The metalastic bush for the shock-absorber, is a single part, and big enough so Tef could cut through that the same way, in three places, but with a hack-saw, undone and threaded through the hole, and put back together.

Once they were all out though, I set about de-rusting them....... AGAIN! and painting them! While looking for all the inserts that go on the pins that go in the middle and bolt them together.... I THINK I have found them all!

But work stopped as I had to go for a Job interview! I dont like interviews, I go all to pieces, but it keeps the job-centre happy, & Tef dragged me there.....

BRILLIANT! Lady was great, she thought I was a 'Gem' and couldn't understand why no-one's given me a job.... well, that was until I started going to pieces! THEN she understood..... but she was really understanding and helpful, and offered me a JOB! Or at least a job trial.... so I went back to the job-centre to tell them..... they said I couldn't take it! I'd be £90 a week worse off! CAN YOU BELIEVE IT! They nag & hassle you to find a job, then when you DO.... tell you not to take it!

So back home, more bike bits! I tackled the head-lamp. When I took it apart to clean the chrome rim, the lense fell off! Was only held on with silicone! so I stuck it back together with LOADS more silicon!

I polished the chrome rim first, and gave it a couple of coats of laquer so it stays shiney.

And FINALLY, all the cases for the switches are painted! They have had I dont know how many coats of primer, then 'Not-Quite-Black', then been laquered, THEN had the lettering picked out in day-glo red, THEN given more laquer, then finished off in solvent resist laquer!

Dont LOOK any different to last time I took a photo of them...... but I CAN now start putting the switches back in!

Tapping out all the threaded holes, to make sure they were free of paint or corrosion.
I WAS going to rebuid the Brake Master-Cylinder next, & started by de-masking it & dressing the reservoir face.

But I have lost the plot..... sorry typo, I meant POT.... I put the bits in when I took it apart, and cant find the rubber bit that goes between the reservoir and lid, or the little metal clippy thing that sits in the bottom!

So I went and bolted something to the frame!

Tef figured out a top-mounting for the engine-bars for me, using half of two exhaust clamps. The smallest they had in the shop, though were 35mm, & Tef had measured the down-tube at 31mm. He'd told me to get ones a bit bigger, so we could use some rubber between the clamps and frame, but we thought that might be a bit too much! Tef, as ever though found a way, cutting some plastic from one of his famouse stak-a-boxes, and heating it up with his hot-air-gun & moulding it into the cup of the brackets!
So, I took all the engine bolts out, one by one, and coppa-slipped them, and routed the cable for the starter, and then, after a bit of mucking about, cutting some M8 rod to length, had my shiney bits!

Not bad, hugh? Remember, they were an e-bay bargain, New-Old-Stock for the earlier T-Shock CB125T, so we didn't expect them to bolt straight up to mine, but that bracket looks neat enough.... just hope that they dont stop the exhaust going on now!

Anyway, put the tank & seat on to see how it looked, and I have to say.... its looking a BIT more like a motorbike!

Doin the Brake Master-Cylinder

sanding the paint off the end to have it clean for screwing the lid on

After Painting, the cylinder was 'fettled', all tapped holes re-tapped to ensure that the threads were clean, and the mating surface of the reservoir dressed on fine wetted wet & dry sand-paper to get a good seal. This is good-practice, even if the cylinder has not been painted or coated.

master-cylinder all ready to be put back together

With the cylinder casting fettled, the internal 'gubbins' can be fitted. First thing, is to soak the new seals in a little new brake fluid. DO NOT let them stay in the brake fluid too long, this is JUST to lubricate them, and get a little seal sweller in to soften them. IF they are left to soak in the fluid too-long they will swell too much, and become useless like old seals.

First you need to make sure that the piston seal is facing the right direction on the piston. Refer to the MANUAL or the instructions that come with the over-haul kit to ensure you have it the right way round.... NOT the old seal. It may NOT have been fitted correctly to begin with, and wear and sweller can distort it making it appear contrary to how it should be.

The seal will be tight on the piston shaft, and you'll probably have to manipulate it over or past some steps in the diameter, that can be quite large. THIS is why you soaked the seal, so that it is soft enough and slippery enough to be manipulated into place without tearing or snapping or snagging.

As shown I carefully used an old small screwdriver to lever the seal over steps and into its rebate. CARE must be taken NOT to stab or nick the new seal, do NOT push with the point of a pointy thing or screw-driver!

Once the seal is fitted to the piston, the piston can be fitted into the cylinder, and locked in place with the retaining circlip. As before, it can be helpful to lock the piston down to hold it in place and relieve pressure on the circlip, by pushing it all the way down and using something through the reservoir port to lock it in place, like the back of a drill bit. again, as for removal, circlip pliers or patent pointy-thing, initiative and patience may be used to locate the circlip.

ENSURE that the circlip IS properly seated and will NOT let the piston come out of the cylinder before deeming the job done!
The dust boot can then be fitted over the end of the piston, a little grease can help it seal and deter corrosion. Be careful if using something pointy to seat it in its rebate, not to tar the thin rubber.
The cylinder is now pretty much reconditioned, and all that needs doing is making sure everything else is put back in in place, in this case the clip over the reservoir port, inside the reservoir, the reservoir seal and lid.
Putting the Back Back On

The back end of the bike has been some-what delayed in progressing. a large impediment to this was we discovered it needed RATHER a lot of RATHER expensive new bushes.
We had planned on renewing them all, we just never really realised that they were nearly all 'split' bushes, so there were twice the number anticipated, and that rather than being two or three pounds each, they were damn nearly a tenner!
This made them about as expensive as the rear shock-absorber, which was ordered early on for £80!
Anyway, Tef kept holding off ordering the bushes as we had plenty to get on with before we needed them, but I was anxious to make sure we COULD get them and that we stood a fair chance of being able to get the bike built back up and working, so I ordered them anyway.
They arrived from Dave Silver Spares a few days later, in Jiffy-Bag. I was so exited when they got here that I could go bolt BIG chunks back on the bike, I grabbed the envelope almost before it was through the letter-box and ran upstairs and jumped up and down on the bed!
Tef, was still IN the bed.
There was a moments flash of alarm, as he opened his bleary eyes, then a flash of excitement, but then he saw the envelope, realised his luck wasn't in, rolled over and went back to sleep!

So I put the kettle on, & went hunting for the linkage to put them in, but the old bushes were still in it. So I had to make coffee and wake the miserable old git up again!
After about three coffee's he was finally conscious, and complaining that I was in hyper-drive!

So I sat and waited patiently, while he sat and measured each bush with his digital thingy-mi-bob..... and drew pictures of them.

THEN he had a look at the linkage... "Ah, RIGHT!" He said.... "Well, first of all we need to take the old ones out" I tapped my foot... I KNEW that! I just wanted to start bolting things together! Instead I watched and took pictures while he cut all the old bushes out. This is probably another 'How-To'.....

All the bushes in the linkage, apart from the one for the shock-absorber are a sort of plastic. Tef said that they are a complicated phenolic resin..... because when he cut into them, it smelled like hospitals.

Anyway, the bushes are 'split' and inside the hole there is a ridge in the casting to separate them, so Tef ground slots through them with the dremmel, in three places.

Then levered out the bits (I know, Tef seems to be doing all the work! But, I am learning!..... Learning that I'm a bit heavy handed and would, as like have cut right through the links!)

The metalastic bush for the shock-absorber, is a single part, and big enough so Tef could cut through that the same way, in three places, but with a hack-saw, undone and threaded through the hole, and put back together.
Once they were all out though, I set about de-rusting them....... AGAIN! and painting them! While looking for all the inserts that go on the pins that go in the middle and bolt them together.... I THINK I have found them all!

Some more paint was applied to the suspension links after the old bushes were removed, and before turning my attention to getting Tef to help me fit the new ones. His words, "They're plastic, & we have to PRESS them in, GENTLY..... smack'em with a hammer & they'll shatter like .......Well, my word, GLASS, as I think its more suitable. What HE said wouldn't have shattered

so much as splattered! Pieces of wood on top of the bush and against the swing-arm are essential to spread the force over the bush and avoid chipping or cracking it by applying a bit too much force too suddenly.

After cleaning up the holes for the bushes with a round file, so that they were free of paint, & giving them a light smear with oil, Tef lined the bushes up and pushed them in loosely by hand. They didn't go very far, because they are a very tight fit, but there's a little chamfer on the corner so they sort of wedged in place, & then Tef lined up a G-Clamp and some blocks of wood to press them in gently, adjusting & tweeking to get them stared for me so they went in 'square'.
Left is the outer bush on one side of the swing arm going in, Right is the inner on the same side. Both legs of the swing arm had to be done in the same way.
There were four more bushes in the swing-arm, again two sides per leg for the wish-bone link bushes.

It was pretty much the same thing to fit the other plastic bushes into the other holes in the Suspension Links. The only difference was that some of them fitted into recessed holes, so to get them all the way in, after getting them as far as we could with wood over then end, and having got them in nice and square, I had to just finish them the last few mm with an old socket that could fit inside the recess in the casting.

Lastly we did the 'Metalastic' bush for the Damper bottom mount, on the Wish-Bone link. Metalastic bushes aren't as fragile as the plastic ones used everywhere else. They are metal & rubber, but they are almost as awkward! They are made from two metal tubes. The inner one is set in rubber in the outer-one, and the inner tube is wider than the outer. When you press one in, you HAVE to press ONLY on the outer tube. If you press on the inner tube that's sticking out, the outer-tube will tend to stick in the hole you are trying to push it into, and you'll first bend the rubber between the two, and eventually the rubber will tear, and you'll push the inner tube out the other side.... and it wont work very well! So you have to use some kind of packing, and old sockets work well, to go over the inner tube and give you something to press against the outer tube, and push that all the way in, and it all works a lot better. Only you need 'something' (like a socket again!) both sides so that you don't end up pushing the outer tube all the way into the hole, getting stuck half way when the wider inner gets stuck against whatever you are covering the hole with.

Next, Tef had an 'idea' to keep my lubberly new Shock absorber Unit clean and Muck-Free, when sat under the bike. Idea was to wrap it up in some rubber cut out of an old inner tube! Seemed reasonable. First of all Tef cut a length of inner tube just a bit longer than the shock-unit, then I sprayed the shock with LOTS of chain lube, so that any moisture wouldn't send it rusty

Then I pulled the rubber over the shock-absorber like a condom over..... well, you should know what a condoms supposed to cover! Then we tied the ends of the rubber with cable-ties, like it was a Christmas Cracker. My shock is a non-adjustable unit. Tef said, that adjustable ones have a collar round the bottom you turn to adjust the pre-load on the spring, and if we'd done this on one of them, we'd either have to be careful so that the rubber left the collar exposed so it could be adjusted, or the rubber left un-tied, so it could be lifted to get at the collar. But I don't have that worry.

Finally, the ends of the rubber were folded back over the cable ties to expose the bush eyes so it could be bolted in. Hopefully this little mod will keep muck off the damper rod and help the shock absorber last longer.

Finishing the Switches

once the switches have been painted and looking nice it was time to rebuild them

By using a bit of sand paper and a file i cleaned all the contacts up and then wd40 them all

The tricky part was trying to keep hold of the little ball bearing in the headlight and indicator switch

I took them switches apart and washed it all through and once they were all dry used a small amount of copper grease and put them back together while holding the bearing in the grease and trying to slip it back in to the switch mount I slipped and the spring under the bearing sent it flying took ages trying to see where it landed
Now that everything is clean you can now put it back together

The finished project next to one that needs doing

By using a tyre iron and some rim protectors I managed to take the old tyres off, also took all the old Cush drive bushes out and the bearings
After sanding all the Anodise off the wheels so that the paint would stick to them I washed them and let them dry, before I started to paint them

I put brush primer over them but it was to thick and looked horrible...so i used paint stripper to take the paint off the outside of the wheels........ But it leaked through to the inside of them and striped most of it off the insides as well.
So at the moment the pup on a spare set of wheels until Tef has worked a way to paint them, or whether to clean another set up and keep them stainless

but i have some lovely Michelin M45`s and new bearings and Cush drive bushes to go on to them once we have decided

Cleaning starter motor chain

We used an old deep fat fryer pan and filled it with grease heated it up on a camping stove and waited till it had boiled

Tef had to put in the drive chain for the corporal as well as a Speedo and taco cable and the pup’s starter motor chain

We left them in the oil for about an hour; they came out lovely and lubricated

Some more plastic welding(already done a full show and tell)

I watched Tef doing it so had a try myself

And failed

Think ill leave that for Tef to do

Going through where I’m at and what I’ve blogged so far; I’ve come across a chunk load of pics of doing fiffy-faffy stuff, that all needed to be done in between the bigger jobs.
Not exiting, but this is where all the time goes, doing all the fiddly bits.
Well, it does if you have a slave driver like Tef, refusing to show you how to put stuff together unless the bits to do it with a right, first
The foot-pegs are a metal tube with a chunk of rubber over it, but there’s a knobble on the tube that a plate screws to on the end at the bottom. The screws had sheared in my foot-pegs so I had to drill them out

Tef doesn’t have a vice in his kitchen surprisingly, so I clamped them to the kitchen work-top with a G-Clamp and a couple of bits of wood!
Then Tef made me file the stub of screw flat so the drill wouldn’t wander when we started drilling.
I HATE the sound of scraping metal!

Once filed, I had to centre-punch an indent to start the drill off.

Using a small drill bit first you have a easier time making it central before using the bigger drill bit to make a hole big enough to take an E-Z out, to unwind the remains of the screw.
The EZ-Out (or EZ-Shear, as Tef calls them) stud extractor, is basically a tapered self tapping screw, with a left hand thread. You screw it into the hole in the sheared stud you want to extract, anti-clock-wise, and it bites into the metal. At some point its bite is more than the force on the threads of the stud, and instead of the EZ-Shear screwing
further in, it starts turning the screw, and turning anti-clockwise, it comes out.

That s the 'principle' Tef calls them the EZ-Shear because they will often, themselves, shear in the sheared stud, before they transmit enough force to start turning it. In my case, though it was the whole noggin that broke off! Which at least meant that the foot-pegs 'matched'!

Tef got drastic. He ground some M6 nuts round, and with a bolt through the nut and the foot-peg to hold them together, we applied araldite!

Once set, the pegs and plates could be painted and the rubbers cleaned up, ready to re-fit. If the rubbers are split or worn, new ones are often still available and not too expensive. these were in pretty good shape though, they were just a bit dirty and stained with rust. They were scrubbed in the sink with hot soapy water, then treated to a few coats of Back-to-Black.

Rubber was wriggled back over foot-peg, and remade noggin, then the bottom plate lined up, and screwed in place. We needed a new screw, since the old ones had sheared and drilled, and a long one to go right through the foot-peg, not just into the noggin, given it was glued on. Tef reckons that the araldite probably stronger than the spot-weld that held it before, but he likes to be on the safe side!
Why SUCH a long bolt? Hmm Well the nobble on the bottom of the plate is known as a 'Hero-Blob', Idea is that if you lean the bike over a long way, these are the first thing to touch the floor, and their scraping on the road give you a clue your leaning over a bit far! and Tef has this idea that I might be a bit of a loony on this bike, and scrape them quite often! so he thought of using an extra long bolt and bending it out as an 'extended' hero-blob, and if I don't wear them away making sparks round corners, he can wind them in a little at a time as my confidence increases..... though he's not sure yet! But, put back together, the pegs could be re-attached to the brackets, and the frame, when we have the hangers back on, but that had to wait until the swing arm and suspension was sorted, as the swing arm pivot goes through the hanger plates.
Next up we have the Indicator and grab-rail mounting brackets that bolt to the ends of the frame rails. These also had sheared screws in them. So much the same thing.

G-Clamp, kitchen work-top, two bits of wood, and more horrible metal scraping, flatting off the sheared stuff, so it could be drilled. Tef says that its very tempting to just dive in with the drill, and not do this, but that little bit of time to flat the stud and centre punch it properly, can really pay off, and help you get a nicely centred and straight hole, and often means studs drill out without damaging the threads in whatever they screw into, saving a lot of time trying to re-make or re-tap them.

Like here, where as the hole is straight through, the screw actually wound out of the back of the hole when drilling.

But, I re-tapped it to clean the threads up, anyway.

These were then painted, ready for when we came to sort the indicators
Next, to be looked at was the Tail-Rail
This is a bit of extruded aluminium that goes all the way around the bottom of the tail cowling. Its a useful thing, its good and strong and securely bolted to the frame, and makes a convenient lifting point, as well as supporting and protecting the more fragile plastic.
But boy does it look ugly. Tef reckons it looks like some-one has bolted a bit of green-house to the bike as an after-thought, I just thought it looked like something that had fallen of a cheap fitted kitchen!
This is one of the 'Before' photo's of when the pup first arrived.

The Tail-Rail starts at the back of the side-panel and runs back under the tail-cowling. It has a channel in it, filled with a bit of rubber trim, so its a confused mess, with the red of the tail-cowl only half meeting the side-panel, and the tail-rail, looking like an after thought, and just not 'blending' into the rest of the styling.

On the Red bike, it just looks odd, but I am painting the bike Black, or 'nearly-black' and I am hoping to get transfers like the later stripes on Tef's Black-Bike.

It looked a 'Bit' better, but with the stripes all the way along the tail-cowl above, then the silver of the tail rail making two stripes either side of the rubber trim strip, it still looks messy.
We thought, if we painted it black, it would remove some of the fussiness, and make it less obvious. Only question was whether to paint it gloss-black, like all the brackets, or the 'not-quite-black' of the body-work. Decided to go for the 'not-quite-black' body colour, Dark-Aubergene. Being dark, it should make the rail look less 'obvious' and less of an after thought, and hopefully make the tail look less fussy and cluttered.

So I attacked it with the rotary wire to remove the surface coating, and give a key for primer, before applying paint.
Meanwhile.... offering it to the bike, Tef found a 'missed' sheared screw in one of the noggins that bolts it on... Oh dear. He didn't like my suggestion of just leaving the screw out, and I almost cried... I cant even look at the 'photo! He took a HACKSAW to my beautifully painted frame!

This was apparently because whilst I was out, he started to drill it out, and had one of those incidents that make him call EZ-Out extractors, EZ-Shear extractors!
The only solution, was to cut the noggin off, and he assured me it was a lot more gentle doing it with a hack-saw than the angle grinder he'd have normally reached for! the rest of the process I couldn't even watch. It involved a very big arc welder, and I didn't want to go blind! But after cutting the noggin off my BEAUTIFUL frame, he then drilled through what remained. Then got a long M6 bolt, and roughly measured up the length of noggin he'd cut off against a couple of M6 nuts he wound on to the thread, spacing them with washers to get about the same length. He then unwound the nuts and washers, put the bolt through the hole in the frame plate he'd drilled, and wound the nuts and washers back down it to make an approximation of the noggin he'd cut off,
and welded them into place!
THEN he attached my BEAUTIFUL frame with the angle grinder! grinding the new noggin down smooth and tidy, before patching what remained of my {cry!} beautiful paint work!
But, when the Tail-Rail was offered back up, it fitted, was pretty secure, and looked quite good actually.... Against the gloss-black of the frame, you can actually see that it is actually quite purple.

Ah, yes! the Swing arm and suspension are FINALLY IN! the bike is now rolling on BOTH wheels!

And that's a close up, with the indicator brackets I mentioned earlier painted and bolted up. You'll notice that the mudguard and air-boxes are also on, after having been plastic welded where needed, scrubbed, scrubbed some more, and then treated with Back-to-Black, as were all the other black plastic bits like the indicators.

We missed getting any pictures of the swing arm and suspension actually being fitted, I'm afraid, trying not to chip any of the nice paint-work, we didn't have enough free hands, but its all in there and looking good, and you saw all the bits being sorted out, before hand.
You'll have to excuse the wheels. They are un-touched and just put on so we can roll it about. We still have the pair I started painting to see if we can do anything with, if not we'll try doing something with these. Tef's thinking polished or chrome, now we've seen how much 'black' there is, to lighten it up a bit.
This is getting frustrating, having a bike SO close to being built, but actually so far off. There's just so much more niggly little stuff to do, like all the wrigglies.

So, asking whether i could go for a test ride.
I was fed up on not having a bike with the buses from Nuneaton to Leicester not running after 6:30pm.
Tef said 'No', because he's mean and wont buy me any exhausts or sort my carburettors!

But, he was close to finishing his project bike, the Corporal and said I could ride that instead. so he went and tidied up the electrics that were hanging out of the head-lamp, and dusted off the un-painted body-work, he was about to start tackling, and sent me off to get some insurance quotes. And a day later, I was heading out on the road!

The bike had been taxed and MOT'd when Tef got it, it just didn't work! But he'd completely rebuilt it, pretty much like the pup, reconditioning the forks and servicing the suspension and brakes, replacing the head-race bearings and 'stuff'.

It rode REALLY nicely and it was great to be back in the saddle. This was SO much better than my old Cruiser-Thing, though the first ride, was disappointing in proving it wasn't very fast, and it took a week of fiddling with carburettors and exhaust and stuff, getting her 'set-up', but it now does 60! And I can now
tell whether a bike is running rich or lean by looking at its spark-plugs, and more, adjusting the carburettor to correct it!
Anyway, we've started on 'the wrigglies'. We ordered a full set of LED lights and a flasher unit, but only three indicator bulbs fitted and the tail lamp bulb was the wrong colour, and we're waiting for the replacements.Meanwhile, I'm also waiting for my Birthday present to arrive, a pair of Oxford Heated 'Sport-Grips', and my Christmas present off Tef, a pair of Oxford Handl-bar muffs, (though they'll probably be fitted straight on the Corporal. Of course, it HAD to be all that snow that turned up last week, when we were doing all the test riding!). Oh, & Tef bought a power adaptor for my Sat-Nav and 'phone, and has been fiddling around putting the GPS in a freezer bag, clipping it in its bracket then trying to work it!
But he wants to get the 'standard' electrics sorted out and working properly, before we starts cutting into the loom for the alarm and accessories and stuff, and he's found a problem with the LED dash-lights, so we need to modify the indicator wiring to make the tell-tale on the clocks work. We have fitted up all the indicators and switches though, and I have made up extra wires for the indicators so that they have a good 'earth' and stuff'. But I think I'll save that for another instalment, when we have more of it working properly.
Meanwhile, here's what the 'Wolf-Clocks' look like, now they are finished, and have white LED bulbs in them.

BOY! valentines already!

You May remember Tef the ever romantic chat up line” If you cant pass a test after Three CBT`s you have no business being on a bike”

So what did I get for valentines? Chocolates? Roses? A nice meal? Weekend away? OF COURSE NOT, Romeo Tef took me to Maplins in Leicester, to buy some wire, resisters and installations tape!

Anyway, it’s been far to long since I last updated this, but then Christmas got in the way and we have been doing wigglies. Well Tef has. I’ve done some soldiering. And there’s not been a lot to have shown you. Last time I had just got my led bulbs (the Wrong Ones), that was to reduce the power consumption, so that I could have all my TOYS.

These are an immobiliser/alarm, because I’m pissed off with my bikes being nicked. More powerful Headlamp, so I can see where I’m going on the dark country roads. My Sat-Nav, so I don’t have to follow the No.48 bus everywhere. And my heated Grips, so my little Flanges, sorry, fingers (been watching to much "Bones"), don’t get cold.

The first thing to tackle was the alarm. The 125 Super-Dream, being a 'naked' motorcycle, of course does not make this easy. There aren't many places to hide all the bits! And for obvious reasons, I don't want to tell you too much, about the alarm. But what I will say, is by the time Tef had finished with it, its no-where near standard!

Note the snappy sandwich tub, an integral security device! Here you see Tef has stripped ALL the wiring loom on the bike, and has stripped the alarm down for some of his clever modifications!

This is under the seat around the battery compartment. To accomodate all my toys, Tef decided I needed a big fuse box. Originally it had ONE fuse. Halfords did a neat little fuse box that held four fuses, but no, Tef insisted on the six fuse one. And found a use for ALL of them! But of course it wouldn't fit where the old fuse holder had been, and he took off all my painstakingly painted brackets for the fuse holder, the starter solenoid and the flasher relay, and replaced it all with a horrible bit of old car number-plate! It was a front one off his Range-Rover... apparently he brakes quite a few, off-roading, and it was a conveniently flat and stiff bit of Perspex! Note the multimeter on op of the battery. Tef used this to trace all the wires and find out what went to what, and to fathom all the functions of the alarm. He also used an old indicator lamp. He spent so much time mucking about testing electrical 'stuff' he even made up a special wire and BOLTED the multi-meter to the bike!

Worth mentioning the flasher unit.... this is the one we took off, to find out why it didn't work.

The can full of rusty water it was sitting in wouldn't have helped! The new electronic flasher is square and has a tab to bolt it to something flat, so that sits underneath the bit of old number-plate, now.

The starter solenoid was in better shape, and worked well after Tef stripped it down and made me clean all the contacts inside, sprayed everything with WD40, then put it back together sealing it with Silicone. He filed a round hole in the old number-plate for this to sit in.

Meanwhile, I did some soldering, and sorted out some extra earth wires. I may have mentioned this, but I made up a little harness with four ring terminals on it, so that the ignition coils had a wire going to each mounting bolt, and the earth wire in the wiring loom, AND one of the engine bolts on the frame!

Tef despises crimp-on electrical connectors. Some-one on one of the Forums had an argument with him about how good a crimped connector can be, and he replied, he knew exactly how strong they could be, he had to get them approved for air-worthiness.... didn't mean he'd trust one from Halfords! So he's made me solder every-bludy thing!

We did this a while ago, before the engine went back in & the back end went on. But had to do much the same for the indicators.

Which after cleaning and scrubbing, and back-to-blacking, I piped silicone into to replace the worn out seals.

Then once Tef had worked out where all the wires needed to go for the alarm.... he got me to solder them all!

I still hate soldering female spade connectors on... I always manage to fill them with solder, but I'm getting better, even though I did drop molten lead on my foot!

Here Tef has got me soldering the diodes that make the tell-tale lamp on the dash for the indicators work.

Fitting the Led Indicator bulbs, we had discovered a this problem, but I had been riding the corporal, which had decided to conk-out in the middle of the road. So I rolled it into the bus lane while I looked it over, but a bus wasn’t happy when he found me in his lane, and sounded his horn. When I got back to Tef's I asked him why bikes didn’t have hazard warning lamps like cars. He told me, some bikes do have them. So I asked him if I could have them on mine, wondering if it was possible. It was only a question. But when Tef's ex asked a question like that, whether it was possible or not, it meant she expected it doing....so Tef did!

And its those diodes that also let me have hazard warning lamps. Lamps which needed a switch. A big switch. A big red switch. A big red LIGHTY UPPY switch!

Which needed some-where I could press it. The little cover over the handle-bar clamps looked promising, so Tef, got out some plasticine. This was to put roughly where we thought the switch might go inside, to see, when it was pressed on, if there was space there. If there wasn't, plasticine would get squashed.

There was Pressing the cover on left just a little dint in the block of plasticine, but as that was square and a bit bigger than the switch, which was round, we reckoned it would be OK. This also looked like a good place for the alarm warning LED, which we decided to put the other side of the cover.

So we measured up the bezel, before doing some drilling!

So far so good. But testing the alarm, Tef observed a flaw. The alarm immobilises the ignition, but nothing tells you that you can start the engine. He imagined me flattening the battery cranking the starter, before phoning him moaning the bike wouldn't start, all for the want of not realising I hadn't turned the immobiliser off. Like I would EVER do such a thing! Pah, men! They think us women are all STOOOPID!

But it was that, and the fact that we couldn't get the hazard warning lamp switch to light up, because it had a 2.2v LED in it, not a 12v bulb, that sent Tef back to the multi-meter! Much swearing later, lead us to the Valentines day visit to Maplins for resistors and LED's, and insulation tape!

Tef had, after much muggering about, tidied up a lot of the spaghetti around the battery and fuse box, and sorted out how to get another LED to light up, IF the ignition was immobilised.

Meanwhile, lots of new shiny bits had arrived!

A critical component was the new lock-set, which included a new ignition barel, as well as seat and steering lock and a new petrol cap.

My Oxford heated handlebar grips and over-muffs had arrived just before Christmas, but a new pair of handlebars were needed before we could organise the wiring and glue them on.

The new bars are chrome, and a little wider in the middle than the originals, but give more space for all the stuff to go on them!

The Wiring for the Oxford grips was added, and the bracket for the heat control switch painted, and after lots more soldering and making another hole for the immobilisers 'safe' LED, it's all looking rather good.... and I have a button. a big button, a big red button. a big red LIGHTY UP button!

That makes hazard warning lamps work. Good, isn't it?

A Blue Flashing LED warns that the alarm is activated, and thanks to Tef's fiddling, its pretty sensitive too.

A Red LED tells me that the immobiliser is still active, and I can't start the engine.

So, the alarm and immobiliser are all now wired in and working like they should. THIS bike isn’t going ANYWHERE without me knowing about it! And the keys are going to be under my pillow so Tef's 12 year old daughter cant go joy-riding on it while I’m asleep!

Doesn't seem a lot for nearly two months work, but, most of the modifications to this bike are electrical, and Tef has virtually completely re-wired the bike, and had to design new circuits from scratch for me, while we spent lots of time mucking around putting bits of bodywork on and off looking for places to fit stuff, make brackets and mounts, and make it all tidy.

Its still not 'quite' there, we need a water-proof cigarette lighter socket for the SAT nav... we discovered it wont work off the universal charger Tef was going to hard wire into the electrics, it would only charge! So has to run off the proper Garmin cigarette socket charger! The heated grips are more easily sorted though, they just need a connector changing on the wire. Tef says I have to solder it! And we still have to sort the head-lamp upgrade to H4 Halogen Bulb...

It’s been a pain staking job for Tef, but he managed to do it, he’s customized the wiring loom to fit all the accessories wires into it. And I STILL really hate wigglies!

I don't want to tell you what the project spend is up to now, but Tef's been adding the prices of all the bits to arrive in the last week, and its the wrong side of £1,600, of which all this elec-trickery accounts for 'about' £300. Over half of that was the heated grips and the LED Light-bulbs. The rest was on LOTS and LOTS of connectors, resistors, diodes, LED's and other assorted components.

But this months bargain was found! A £15 Clutch switch, obtain from NOS off ebay for £5!

Handlebars had been being awkward. Only place that listed bars for the 125 Super-Dream, priced them at £46, in black. Tef reckoned that they were the same as the CB250RS, which we found listed most cheaply for £35, but couldn't confirm the dimensions. Searching the catalogues and listings, took ages, as the 125 Super-Dream has very low bars. But in the end we found an e-bay supplier who measured up an actual pair of bars for us and we compared with Super-Dream bars, and for £25, were just about perfect. About half an inch wider at the clamps, they have just that bit more room for the brake reservoir to clear the clocks, and more room for the clutter of switches and stuff we've added, while the extra 3/4 of an inch at the grips is just like a bar end weight or could be sawn off.

So we seem to be getting some-where, but we're still a long way off finishing. There's loads of stuff to go over and check through, tightening and adjusting stuff, and there's a fair bit more on the list needed to get the bike close to an MOT, including the most expensive bit, new exhausts, and we're waiting for the weather to improve before spraying the tank and plastics, so probably not much more to update you with for a while, BUT the project is still progressing.... slowly!

First to arrive made me a bit exhausted though.....

Meanwhile, Tef found a place to do some powder coating, and my wheels and luggage rack are away having a coat of 'glitter; silver.... should have been 'done' on Tuesday, but Tef gave them some handlebars to do as well, and their machine broke, so they aren't done and have been giving us excuses all week!

But a big box of bits arrived from Dave Silver Spares!

New Air Filters, the cush drive bushes, new sproket bolts and nuts, so when the wheels DO finally come back from the coaters, I can build them all up, with the new bearings and seals and nice new tyres I got RIGHT at the very beginning!

A complete set of cables was also included. New Clutch, and throttle cables, as well as the Speedo and Rev Counter Drive for my loverly custom 'clocks'!
And lastly, Do you think my bum will look big on this?

New seat cover arrived...So getting on with some work.....

Tef cought me trying to pull the staples that held the old seat cover on with a screwdriver. He wasn't happy. He has a 'thing' about people misusing screwdrivers. And he told me to simply 'cut' the old cover off with a scalpel.

Yes, I can see, all I have to do is lift it away tef!

Men... stand around offering 'helpful' advice taking awful photo's when a girls getting some work done!

For some reason the seat foam was wrapped in cling film. So THAT all had to come off.
Then I could wash the foam in the bath.

Then while that soaked, go back to getting the staples out of the seat base.
"If I cant use a screwdriver, what should I use then?!" I asked Tef.
"This" He said, handing me........ A SCREWDRIVER!
"That's a Screwdriver!" I said.... helpfully!
"Ah!" He replied...."Well! It WAS a Screwdriver. NOW its a 'patent pokie thing' version four! Some-One rounded it off using it to pry staples out of stuff!"

So, once I had pulled them out a bit with the 'No Longer a Screw-Driver, patent Pokie thing Version 4.... I yanked them all the way out with a pair of pliers.

And apart from scrubbing the seat base, once de stapled, THAT is as far as I have got on that job.
The seat foam, is infromt of the fire in the living room.
You know, after a thorough soaking in the bath, and a rince with fabric softener ('Comfort' for preference!)....
seat Bases take RATHER a long time to dry out.....
HINT: They take even LONGER to 'Dry' if you put them outside on a clothes airer....... in March..... when it rains a lot!
So, other works. Finishing the back suspension.
This has been hanging around far too long. After we got all the bushes sorted out, we 'loosely' bolted it all up. BUT, I was stressing trying to find all the bolts

And you have to put the brake pedal assembly together before you can put the right hand footpeg hanger on, because thats held in place with the swing arm bolt!

So, with a bottle of Thread Lock found, Tef tought me how to use a Torque Wrench to tighten it all up and lock it all in place.

Applying Thread-Lock

Inserting Bolts

Torque Setting them.
Job Done....... "Tef, where does this spring go?"

"Looks like the brake pedal return spring....... that goes.... behind the Right hand Foot-Rest hanger... oh! ####!"
So moving quickly on to what else has been done........
Getting close to finishing, Tef's been trying to sort out the Decals to go on both his bike and 'The Pup'.
i wanted a full 'custom' paint job, but tight-wad-tef, wouldn't let me have a nice arbrush mural job, and tried fobbing me off with the clock fascias!
Tef Started by doing some 'rubbings' on tracing paper of the 'Original' Graphics on som eof the other bikes.

'The Pup' had been roughly repainted before we aquired him, so this could have been a bit of a 'problem'.

These are the rubbings of the tank of 'the Corporal', Tef's Red '86 Super Dream, which is like mine should have looked, but the Decals are a bit 'boring'.
The ones on his 1987 bike, 'The Black One' we both thought looked a bit more inspiring

He made Rubbings of both Sets though, to see what could be done.

So with outlines of the original decals, Tef did some pixel-picking to see what could be done with them.

Tef Did this for his bike. Basically the original design for the later bikes, but with 'Super Dream' added under the side panel flashes, instead of 'Deluxe'. We did a lot of messing around to see what might suite on my bike, but decided to do 'something' based on the standard graphics..ish.

This was an early 'idea' but I preffered this one....

And ultimately, Tef worked it into a full Decal pack like this

Which has been sent to Corf, with the original rubbings, to see if he can make them for us! (Fingers Crossed)

And for the 'Brave' Spent to date= £1,990.00!

Some people might have remembered having trouble sorting my wheels out.

Trying to paint them by hand,but they looked rubbish

Well in the end i took some peoples advice and sent them away for blasting and powder coating,well took them a week to sort Tef`s handlebars that were sent with them,but got them back yesterday.Dont they look sparkly?

They just need to be sanded inside the back wheel where the brake goes...so it doesnt get hot and melt inside there.

Put them next to the ones thats on The PUP to show comparison

OH!very pretty if i do say so myself.

Now to get these tyres on.............GOD im so tired today,making sure we have the arrows on the tyres facing the right way,Tef marks the Wheel aswell.

Lining the tyre on the wheel put one end in,guard the rims with rims protectors and use the tyre iron to get the last little bit on.

Now for the innertube,taking the valve out you can blow throw the tube,so it unsticks and easier to put round the wheel.

Line the valve up with the hole in the wheel but dont put it through the hole yet.

then start tucking it in,making sure its straight.

One its all in wiggle it inside the wheel,making sure its inside the tyre,then put the valve through the hole,Tef told me not to screw the valve clamp all the way down,so that there was some play so that it doesnt rip the valve stem out of the tube.

Then by standing on the tyre you can get most of the other side of the tyre on.

Then with the rim protectors and the tyre iron,you can get the last bit of the tyre on.

while rolling the wheel and tapping it round you can make sure the tyres sitting correctly.

Put the valve back in and then its ready for some air.

Tef said to put more air in the tyre than needed so that the tyre expands and we know its firmy in place.

Then take the air out till its at the right pir for your wheels,then repeat again for the other wheel.
We had taken the old bearings and bushes out the wheels,they were a right pigs ear to get out too,so now that the wheels all looking beautiful it was time to hammer them ........lol ,the bushes back in to the wheels i mean not the wheels themselves.( had this image then if i didnt put that right of people hammering the wheels and the nice new paint work..........EKKKKKKKKK).

Tef used a small hammer to get the bushes in place square.

Then using a rubber hammer,he could tap them down into place,then using the tyre iron on the rubber bushes all the way home(Sorry missed taking that picture).
We made sure that the spocket was going to line up before repeat it for the other three.

Time to do the bearings

Hammer the bearing in squarely untill its all the way in

put a load of grease through the centre and grease the spacer

put the other bearing in on the other side,and using a drift send them all the way home

then time for the dust seal

apart from the rear wheel ended up with a puncher
and i cant find the spacer for the front wheel so putting them on the pup will have to wait a while

Infuriating! The Pup is so NEARLY finished.............

Well finally managed to find the spacer and mend the puncter in the back wheel tube and they are now fitted

Bearings ready to be bashed into the front wheel.

Bashing in the bearings

BIG hammer! I like BIG hammer!
And a socket! To knock the bearing up against its seat

Then the seal fitted

Other side.... grease the elusive spacer...

Fit into hub

Bash in next bearing

Drive it home

Pop the Speedo drive washer in (Which we forgot! TEF!!!) And press in the seal.
Then tackle the brake disk

Plenty of coppa slip on the flange to stop it corroding to the hub.

Then BASH it on! I love jobs with HAMMERS! Call me Thor!

Then Add bolts

More coppa slip so they don’t corrode inside the hub either..... BUT....

When they come out the other side.....

You have to clean off ALL the coppa slip from the threads, so that the thread lock on the nuts will 'take'.

Then they can be torqued up.

And the hub cover fitted

And THEN

Wheel can be fitted to bike!
AND the front brake tackled!

Been sat around for ages that has, NOW we could fit the Goodridge hose, fill with fluid and bleed through..... But first I had to bolt the calliper onto the fork properly..... Back out with the coppa-slip and loctite!

At Tefs Insistence I include this pic... For all of you that insist that women on here it’s TOGTFO! BOYS! The LOT of you!
So, with the wheels on, the next job was to add my Iris, Extreme H-D X-Ring chain & sprockets
I think that this is tefs way of hinging on to me! 'Chaining me' to him! I met him because I was having trouble with my old Chinese Cruiser Thing and the chain coming off the whole time, and running out of adjustment, and he came over to look at it, and help me get a new one! Think he got more than he bargained for! Anyway!
This is the standard 'plain' chain on the Corporal.

And this is the Extreme HD X-Ring on the Pup...

It’s rather a lot wider, and those plates are a heck of a lot thicker as well!
Bit of luck this shouldn't need such frequent adjustment and OUGHT to last a heck of a long time!
Anyhow, other 'fettling'.

Ends of the handlebars were trimmed to length

Grips removed, so that they could be adjusted and set up, and the twist grip 'lubed' to run on the handlebar.

And then my MX hand guards could be fitted up!

When the winters here they will keep the muffs open and also protect the levers (Already scraped one down the side of the house.... oops!)
Then bike was wheeled outside, because we were CLOSE to being able to start it.... all I needed was some exhausts and carburettors.....

Needed to sort the 'problem' with the engine bars fouling the exhausts we discovered when the exhausts first arrived, first though. This was the solution!

Tef welded a bit of 2" tube (Cut from a Range Rover exhaust! He reckons it’s as thick as scaffold pole, near enough!) Top the front engine mounting plate. He also added two exhaust U-Clamps, as handy security chain attachment points!

Drilled, to space the engine bars away from the exhaust, then Tef's rather 'agricultural' welding smoothed off with a bit of filler, before painting!

Then it could be refitted to the bike, and I could go over all the engine mounting bolts, making sure they were proper tight and loctited!

Before hanging the crash bars in place, and fitting up the exhausts

Tef told me this was the magic 'restrictor washer'.... Sorry Tef, read too many of your posts to be 'got' by that old joke! Bludy exhaust gasket, didn't want to stay in there though!

Got it in in the end though, & fitted up with the collets.
Then I could bolt the crash bars up at the bottom.
Meanwhile we have stretched the new seat cover over the foam.... when it eventually dried out! Bludy stuff!

More Skew, because it’s not latched down, but the cover needs re stretching to get it lining up right! Didn't get pics because between two of us we didn't have enough hands to stretch AND pin, let alone work a camera too!
But we were JUST about ready to fit carburettors, and see if she ran!
I think that the 'will He run' episode deserves its own post... so for now....
A few more bits of plastic have had paint...
Last mention of the mudguard was me not managing to plastic weld up the hole I put in it

Sanding it down.... Tef to the rescue, but he still made me scrape out all the paint on the edges!

Then Primered

And Painted!

It’s NOT BLACK!
Its Dark aubergine!
Same as the tail cowling, also finally painted!

So in the NEXT thrilling instalment, I'll tell you ALL about the 'start up'.... or NEEEEEE...... NEEEEEEEEEE........ NEEEEEEEEE "Why ent this thing WORKING!!!!!" Neeeeee. nuuuuuuuu...... nugh uh ug u duff..... "Any one got some jump leads?"

A video as promised
Click the Picture to watch video

Just the Tank to be painted now and then to get it MOTed and Taxed

That vid, all 14 minutes of it..... is the 'highlights' of a weeks head scratching!
The wiring loom has been a painstaking project in its own right, and the ignition circuits had to be messed around with for the imobiliser.
So 'sparks' were tested in the living room....
Here in lies a 'Dowh" moment.
Bike was stood behind the settee, facing the kitchen door.
When testing sparks, I pulled the left hand spark plug.... it was the one we could get at!
While doing "Does it work Doesn't it" on the wrigglies... didn't need to be any more thorough.....
Only ponder we had was which wire fed which coil.... but that was something we'd find out when we came to start it.... if it dont go, simply swap the feeds and try again!
Engine had been running when we got the bike..... roughly.... but it ran! and apart from painting it, and setting the cam chain tension and tappets, its been pretty much left alone.
we didn't know WHY it was running badly when we got it, but holes in the exhaust wouldn't have helped, niether would rather warped and perished carburettor rubbers!
Anyway an awful lot of that effing about whining the starter was testing the sparks, and suck on the carbs, and 'stuff'.
And initial investigations were all looking at the carbs, which Snowie had 'just' fitted, and were the main worry, becouse we couldn't get hold of new rubbers or carb overhaul kit, so they had simply been cleaned up as best as, and put back together with home made gaskets, and the old rubbers glued and glooped up to try and get a decent seal.
Much head scratching and back to the idea of swapping the ignition feeds, and then with still no joy, actually thought to test teh sparks against the head and actually SEE if they were sparking!
which was when we dscovered we were only getting one, weak spark!
SO..... doing the simple and obviouse first...... swapped the CDis left to right, swapped coils left to right, then started chasing the actual wires dong continuity & isolation tests with the multi meter!
working RIGHT the way back through the system, eliminating each component in turn, isolating the imobiliser circuit, the ignition switch etc..... we narrowed it down to a duff pick up.

So, Snowie did resistance measurements of both pickups, and both were identical. and not just that, they were identical to teh resistances of the pickups on the spare genny cover AND the pickups in teh Corporal.
At WHICH point, Snowie took the Genny cover off and tried the spare, and STILL we had only one spark.
which meant it HAD to be something to do with pick up alignment, and I was RATHER worried it might be something rather seriosue like a bent crank, and the rotor turning eccentric or sometheing...
So we spread plasticine over the pickups, and put the cover back on, and worked the rotor around slowly by hand.
when we removed the cover, plasticine had been smeared away where the rotor's trigger had passed....
Was completely missing the lower pick up!
Lying down under the bike....... Snowie discovered that there was a location dowl in one of the lower holes, only it was rather 'mangled'.....
Problem SOLVED!
Rotor cover wasn't aligning on the mangled dowel that was holding it a mm or so away from the crank case, so the whole case was sitting skew and the rotor missing that pick up.
Pair of mole grips, and five minutes wriggling, and the dowel was out, and carefully aligning the casing, and JOY we had sparks!
And the bike fired up almost straight away!
Only it was idling at about 6K rmp, and not very happy!
BACK to those carbs, and the erroniouse and unavailable rubbers.... and while I was investigating the manifiolds for CG125s and pit bikes and comparing the stud paterns to see if we could make a substitution....
Snowie went out and STOLE the whole ruddy carburettor assemblies of one of MY bikes, and fired the bugger up!
However, cunning plan is when she's past test, to do a motor rebuild, and fit bigger barels and CB200 pistons to hog it out to 198cc, and a hotter cam, from the 'full power' euro spec 125, to get we hope, something in the order of 20+bhp.
That, if it happens, even if only in part, by way of bored out Benley barels, or the cam, its likely to up the power to over 17bhp, which is what the 'full power' CB125 made, and had 26mm carbs for, rather then the 'Reduced Effect' UK model's 24's, so bigger carbs would be on the cards anyway.
So, pending that mini project, the 'Super-Duper-Dream', its not a big worry for the moment. If it happens we'll get new carbs and inlets to suit the tuned engine, and then the ones of my bike can be put back there.

So, some more progress.

With the motor back in and working, I wanted to finish the main service on it, and give it an oil change and clean the filter. When we fitted the new clutch cable though, Tef noticed that the new cable was almost adjusted to the maximum... so he reckoned I could do with a new clutch, especially if when I pass my test, we bore the engine out!

So, I wrote a couple of How2's on it all for the Workshop

HOW2: change Oil & Clean strainer (Small Honda's +)

HOW2: Overhaul Clutch (Small Honda's +)

HOW2: Make a Cornflake Packet Gasket
So I won’t go over it ALL again, but some of the highlights:

Draining the oil, and fishing for the sump plug.... you MIGHT have told me the oil would be HOT, Tef! Bludy man just laughed!

The Haynes said you have to remove the whole oil pump to get this out, but on Tef's instructions, managed to wriggle it out without such a faff. Also told me to use expensive PETROL to clean it! I used washing up liquid, and not even the expensive stuff!

Had to clean up the gasket faces, and then put it back in before dealing with the clutch.

Got new springs and clutch plates of e-bay, for less than £20.

Stripped the release plate off the clutch to get at the springs, but needed Honda Service tool, 07716-0020100, to take the clutch hub out to replace the springs. The Haynes gave instructions on how to make one...

[quote="Haynes"]This tool is available as Honda Service tool, 07716-0020100. If this is not available, fabricate a suitable tool from a length of thick walled tubing. Refer to the accompanying illustration for details, cutting away the segments shown with a hacksaw to leave four tangs.[/quote]

unhelpfully, so Tef did it his way with an old 3/4" socket and an angle grinder!

Isn't pretty, but it worked!

That off, I could strip the clutch plate pack

And put the new plates in.

Then put it all back together again!

So, Clutch reconditioned, had to make a gasket for the primary drive cover

Turning that, into this!

Trick is to do the screw holes first!

Cover Back on....

Chuck in some oil!

And THAT, with the tappets and cam chain adjusted as I did ages ago, is the engine 'sorted'!
Or at least as 'sorted' as it’s going to be, save serious mechanical maladies or disasters, until I have past my tests, when I get to do some 'silly' mechanics!
Tef has acquired a CD200 engine, and the idea is, to rebuild my engine as a 200, for my 33bhp restriction period!

Well, its a busy week, and it all seems to be starting to come together.

and I cant make my mind up what colour I like best.......

While doing the oil change and clutch overhaul, a big parcel full of stickers arrived!

Custom cut for us, by Corf off the Forum.

The original decals that would of been on the pup and are on the corporal at the minute till she gets her new bodywork.

The bodywork on "The Black One"that the new decals were designed from,but instead of the Deluxe under the stripe on the side panel we added Super Dream.

These are the main decals for the Pup, and I couldn't wait to see what they looked like on the plastics!

Tail Cowling all painted up, waiting to be stickered!

First Stripe carefully applied!

Peeling off the backing to leave the vinyl on the paintwork

And both sides 'done'

and so the Honda Logo on the back

and so onto the side panels

Last time you saw them they had been painted 'not quite black' but needed the inset bit painting 'matt' black like the originals.

so they were masked off and sprayed

And I added the main decal

Then the lettering detail had to go on. This was HARD

Then the 'Super Dream' badge

then I did it again for the one for the other side

so just need to wait on the Pup logo im having on the sidepanels and then they can be lacquered.

so just the tank to be done now,but still preparing that with high build and sanding,But this is what it should look like once its finished

This is the corporals new tank and what the pup`s should look like but in nearly black

Well today I got Tef to spray my tank as this is the most important bit that’s seen

Just to remind you what it looked like, THIS was how it looked when I got the bike.

some one had had a go at painting it before... badly, and then spilled petrol all over it, so it went all mottled!

Tef got me to strip three tanks we had lying around, then picked ont to prepare.

Primered, I set about filling and smoothing it

Skimming nearly the whole tank with filler to get a good level.

Then 'lightly Sanding' back to bare metal, and building up with filler-primer!
Over, and Over, and OVER again!

EVENTUALLY... got it looking something like it ought to, in primer, ready to be painted.... TODAY!

Once the tank had two coats of "Not Quite Black" and they were dry we got on with putting the decals on

(ok Tef made me have a heart attack and left me to put them on)

the problem is I don’t see straight, so I could of ended up with one skew-whiff.

Something went wrong on the next post,and i can edit it,to put it right

Well today I got Tef to spray my tank as this is the most important bit that’s seen

Just to remind you what it looked like, THIS was how it looked when I got the bike.

some one had had a go at painting it before... badly, and then spilled petrol all over it, so it went all mottled!

Tef got me to strip three tanks we had lying around, then picked ont to prepare.

Primered, I set about filling and smoothing it
After watching the video of Corf putting his decals on his TZR...

Something went wrong on the above post,and i can edit it,to put it right,the video link on above post had been deleted

After watching the video of someone putting his decals on his TZR...

I got what was needed to put the decals on
- 1 spray bottle with water
- A cloth

Putting the tank on its side I sprayed the side all over so that I could slide the decals into place and if they needed to be moved they wasn’t stuck down fully

Taking off the decal backing and then setting them on to the tank

Rub down with the cloth, so that they are firmly down

Then striping the film away from the stripes slowly and sort of straight

Then rubbing with my fingers and then the cloth to get rid of any bubbles and water from under the decal

Once that’s all bubble free and firmly down it was time to put the Honda wings on

Spray the tank again and taking the backing off the wings

And setting them into the place you would like them

Rubbing with fingers and cloth

Peel the firm away and get rid of any air bubbles

On so that’s one side done time to repeat the procedure

The second side is harder to do as now you have to try and get them in the same place as the first set

So spray tank

Peel backing

Line up decals on the tank and try getting them equal to the other side

Rub them down so they are firmly on and take off the film

use cloth to get rid of and bubbles

and then spray the tank again for the wings

We measured the wings on the first side with some squared paper and counted the squares

This helped a lot so once in the right place rub them down take film off and remove bubbles

I think the not quite Black looks better than the corporal red

That’s one decaled tank

Then with some t-cut I removed the water marks off the tank ready for petrol proof lacquer

Pages

Log in or register to post comments