pup project 1986 honda cb 125 super dream

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pup project 1986 honda cb 125 super dream









could u help my i have a 125 superdream and only getting a spark for one off them changed coils leads plugs tryed cdi and now ant got a clue ur help would be great thanks gaz

Wish I had a girlfriend as cool as you,I stripped down my first CB125TD Engine to find that the valve rod had actually smashed through the piston head, and the gearbox had filled with swarf.I'm just trying to find out why the revs on the next CB125 rise to infinity as soon as I touch 4000, and won't drop until I turn off the whole machine off.wish me luck how did yours go?

any one no were i can get a tank for the cb tdc 125 please any help would be great

can anyone help me find suspension bushes for the lower linkages on my cb125tdc?





Once painted and cured, masking removed, and the casting YE A BLUDY GAIN, washed and thoroughly dried, (To make sure theres no dust or paint residues or ANYTHING inside... its time to try and put it to gether again.

Main seals go in first, in the lower groove. They are the thicker ones, and are square in section. Takes a bit of 'wiggling' but they do go in. I have an advantage here with little lady's fingers! Tip, wipe them with brake fluid first to lubricate them.

'Wiper' seals go in next, in the upper groove. These are the thinner rings and have a groove in the face. BOTH rings have to go in neatly without being twisted or kinked or anything.

Once the seals are in place and seated comfortably, then the pistons can be pushed in. Again they go in a lot easier if you dip the end in brake fluid to lube them first. You DO have to be careful to get them in square and not dislonge a seal as you push them in though. Case of being firm but fair! They will take a bit of pressure to go in, you cant tickle them, but get ham-fisted and you'll get them jammed and possibly pinch one of the new seals.

But once they are 'in' they should go all the way fairly easily.

Next the brake pads anti-rattle clip can be fitted.Given some coppa-slip to stop it squeeking ir rusting, and after coppa-slipping tha back of the brake pads they can be fitted too.

Next come the pad-pins, which can again be coppa-slipped before pushing through the pads. These often rust in the holes in the caliper and the pads stopping the brake work properly & making changing the pads a pain. A we were reconditioning the caliper we used brand new pad pins, & my B/F had me 'ream' the holes for them in the caliper out with a drill before we started re-assembling it.

Next job is to re-assemble the float-pins. Note that the pads have been wedged part with a bit of card-board to stop them waggl;ing about until the caliper if fitted, and the hole for the brake pipe mashed off to stop crud getting in before its all put fully back together.

The float pins are a pain. B/F said there was a 'trick' to it, and then cocked it up! Theres two rubber grommits and a sleeve. Sleeve goes through the caliper body, rubber grommet goes on either end, clipping into a groove on the end of the sleeve, and another in the caliper body!

The 'Trick' I think he eventually discovered is you put ONE gromet into the caliper body, then push the sleeve through from the other side, and push it FURTHER than the gromet, so you have an empty hole to put the other grommet into. THEN you can push the sleeve back and fiddle the grommets into the grooves on either end of the sleeve.
Its not easy. Especially if everything is all slippery with coppa-slip, because you dont want it rusting or siezing!

Gromet on the OTHER pin just clips over the lip of the hole on the caliper mount. Dead easy, BUT as B/F pointed out, DONT use TOO much coppa-slip of it'll all squrt out when you push the pin in, and or stop the pin floating properly.
In fact, you ought to be sparing with the coppa-slip in MOST places, as you dont want any getting on the brake pads or anything!
Finally, and I didn't get pictures of it, a new bleed nipple and nipple cover can be fitted, and the pad retaining plate screwed down over the pad-pins to hold them in place.
And EVERYTHING tightened up to the torque specifications in the Haynes manual.

OH.... Tip: WHEN you paint the caliper body, if you want it to look REALLY nice when its all 'done'...... dont forget to paint the pad retaining plate!
Might get round to doing the Master Cylinder next.

striped and cleaned 2 sets of forks, to find the best of the stanchions and sleeves,cleaned the sleeves with a wire wheel on the drill only managed to clean 1 set of them though as killed the drill

Undo the top bolt on the fork leg before you take it off the yoke`s then undo the yoke pinch bolts to release fork legs,and remove the fok spring,sorry Tef wasnt fast enough to get a piccy,see the top bolt is loose in this pic

Empty the fork oil into a jar as it can be used for cleaning with a bit of petrol in it,pumping the stanchion to get out as must oil as possible ,Now turn the fork leg upside down and remove the allen bolt use a bar in the in the wheel spindle lug,and then another bar on the allen key for more leaverage

Remove the stanchion from the slider,turn the stanchion upside down as now the allen bolts out of the damper rod should just tip out

If you fish the allen bolt out of the bottom of the slider so you dont loose it, you can screw it back in the damper rod end cap,to pull it out

Uni-thread rod (M8 in this case! )is really useful to have.here used to push damper rod out the stanchion

Remove the dust seal on the slider with a tyre iron or screw driver

Use the screw driver to take out the circlip that was under the dust cover in the slider

Use the tyre iron to remove the fork seal turn it and lever round till it comes loose,as you dont want to damage the slider

look lots of lovely pieces,these all need to be cleaned
Except first i took the slider to tef so he could drill the sheared bolt out of the stantion from where the mudguard is bolted...

Centre punching a hole so the drill bit doesnt move off course

I had already cleaned this set of sliders,with my trusty drill and brush,and masked off the drain hole and top of the slider so when they are painted the paint doesnt go into them

With a small drill bit slowly pilot a hole through the bolt and the repeat with a slightly bigger drill bit

Hes good managed to leave some of the bolt so that it dont damage the thread

With a pair of long nose pliers he scraped out the remaining bolt

Then just used a tap to clean the threads up

One nice and shiny hole,oh and look it can still be used

Murdered drill R.I.P

My sliders had their first coat of primer ,dont they look nice

If you want to paint or polish the sliders, this is where you take the opportunity. If painting though, be sure to mask off the inside so no paint gets onto the slider bush or seal seats, or where it could interfere with the operation of the damper mechanism.

So, stripped, cleaned, polished, new seals, gaiters & oil procured, forks can be re-assembled.
insert Picture of spacer & Stansion here
The CB125 has a spacer under the fork seal, above the slider bush, which needs to be fitted, the correct way up, before the fork seal.

Then the fork seal can be pressed into place, ensuring you have it the right way up, before its tapped into its rebate.

then driven home, using a suitably sized socket as a dirft, driven with soft hammer.

With the seal 'home' the retaining circlip can be re fitted.
insert Picture of Circlip being fitted here

Dropping the damper tube into the stanchion is the easy bit... getting it out the bottom can be a bit more tricky! Here I have a length of M8 'unithread' rod (available at most good hardware or DIY stores) which is the same thread as the damper retaining bolt, but a LOT longer... so I can push the damper rod down, then from the other end, fish in and screw into the bottom of the damper rod, and draw it out the bottom.

Fitting the aluminium bottom stop, should stop it falling back through, while assembling to the slider.

Bottom Bolt can then be fitted, remembering copper sealing washer, and tightened to hold everything together, and the damping oil in.

Damping oil can then be measured out, and the fork leg filled with oil.

Fork Spring can then be inserted into the stanchion, and the end cap fitted.

Often its difficult to apply enough preload to the spring, and grip the stanchion to tighten the fork end cap on, and it may be easier to slide the stanchion back onto the fork joke and nip the pinch bolt to hold it steady, or to leave the spring, oil and cap until the fork has been fitted to the yokes.

All that remains is to slide gaiter or dust cap over the stanchion and onto the slider, and that's the leg fully rebuilt and ready to fit.

i got my frame and swingarm back yipppeeeeeeeeeeeee.

heres some piccys of when the frame came back

im so happy its back might be able to start something instead of washing-sanding-washing........

so it didnt get rusty again by morning i got Tef to put on a coat of primer onto it

More painting

The engine brackets were sanded,primed and then a coat of high build.

Then got on with some other bits like taking the bottom cone from my bottom yoke what a pain in the butt that was had to put it back on to as Tef missed taking the bloody pic
Then got on with some other bits like taking the bottom cone from my bottom yoke what a pain in the butt that was had to put it back on to as Tef missed taking the bloody pic

then i was back to the power tools Tef let me loose with his new drill

well this morning i was out there sanding down the high build from the frame,Got told off

then did another coat of high build ,looking pretty isint HE (for Tef`s Reference)

Tefs kids for the weekend, so
took them out for the day on Saturday, after spraying the frame with another coat of black, and
gave it its first coat of laquer when we got back!
Last lot of pics I posted we'd just got the frame back from the blasters, and got the first coat
of primer on it. Spent a lot of the week adding further coats of primer, and hi-build, before
putting on the paint.

starting to put paint on!

One of MANY coats of gloss!

Swing-arm too.
You know.... this bit of the project is about as interesting as watching paint dry! Another
reason I've not posted much!
Between coats of paint on the frame, I've been cleaning and painting all the little nadgery
brackets and bits, ready to go back on.
Even washed a bracket.........dont know how that got in my bike boxes....I asked tef what bit of
the bike it came from he said a cupboard.................... WELL I AM LEARNING

anyway, today I put my new head race bearings in and put the headstock back together, reassembled
the forks and fitted them.

Drifting the bottom bearing onto the yoke assembly.

Banging.... sorry, 'drifting' the bearing races into the head-stock.

Tightening the head-race bearing pre-load nut with the special spanner!

The Center Stand, all fitted up, so I can prop it up once the forks and front wheel are on. Tef
wanted me to put washers between the stand and the brackets it sits between to stop it moving
about, but we couldn't find any big enough.
I had the bright idea of cutting down one of the old swing-arm bushes we'd taken out..... Tef
didn't laught at me.... found a saw and tried it! Worked a treat!

Propped up ready to fit forks.

Forks going in

Forks in and clamped up on the lower yoke only. This is so that the stansion wont turn when you
come to put the fork cap back on.

The fork oil added, after measuring out, being careful to get the same amount in each leg.

Tef, sticking two two-pence pieces on the top of each fork spring before we put the caps on.

Err..... OK.... yeah! I had to ask too!
It adjusts the 'Pre-Load' apparently, and he used to do this on the old TZ race bikes in the days
before bikes had multi-twiddle-able suspension.
He reckoned that TWO two pee coins would make the bike handle better..... I have NO idea why!
I DID ask if it would handle REALLY well if we went for a whole quid, but he just shook his head
and asked for the 17mm socket!

which he got me to use to do up the fork-caps, after starting them in the thread for me.

So, forks on, and all assembled, STARTING to look like a motorbike again! Bit of faffing to level
the forks in the yokes, and Tef cocked it up! He reckoned you had to leave one leg a bit loose,
then bounce the suspension to get the other leg the right height in the yoke..... it just popped
out the top on him! Ha-Ha! Bit of fiddling got them level, though, and then I could nip them up
and put all the bolts in.
Now looking at my bearing-less swingarm and wondering are we going to be able to find new bushes
for it!
And tonight I was just getting the engine ready to start and have a look what if anything needs
doing to that and get it all nice and clean ready for the new spocket............Tef said no to
an engine rebuild at the moment as it runs................spoil sport
Then he dropped the frame from the heap, on his foot.... swore.... loudly..... threw it accross
the garden.... and I decided to call it a day & sort some photo's!
But amongst them I found one of at an engine.......

That's the one Tef has just 'done' for the bike he's doing......
He has told me to make 'mine' look like that..... I'm wondering whether to just nick his! He's
messed about with the ignition and carbs and stuff and got it running really nice!
My carbs were horrible! all glued together with gloopy-stuff!

More Bludy Cleaning!

Here we have the tail cowling from the pup, and the 'noggins' that it bolts to the support rail have broken off. They ALL do that! The 'lugs' on the back of side-panels are another one that ALWAYS breaks, and Tef's going to show me how to re-make one of them later.

What you need:

1> Plastic Part to be fixed
2> Soldering Iron

(One with an interchangeable tip you don’t mind getting messy, or an old or cheap one that can be kept especially for the job)
3> 'Scrap' Plastic, of a similar texture to the bit you want to fix, cut from any old plastic 'rubbish' you have lying about, to use as 'filler' rod.

The first thing to do is to find the right 'Scrap' plastic to use as your filler. you can buy special plastic welding kits, that contain plastic rods of different plastic, but they are expensive, and you are BOUND to have loads of suitable plastic 'rubbish' you can use instead!

In true 'Blue-Peter' fusion, raid the kitchen cupboards, the recycling bin, kids bedroom, garage shelves WHEREVER... for ANYTHING 'disposable' or that you can dispose of, made of plastic.

You need to try and 'match' the plastic of the filler rod to that of the thing you are fixing, and for motorbike body-panels the plastic is normally some kind of nylon.

Best match for that kind of plastic I have found has tended to be from things like washing up bowls, stak-a-boxes or old milk-bottles. Plastic tends not to be quite as high grade or as brittle as that used in the motorbike panels, but it doesn't have to be an 'exact' match.

If you have NEVER done this before, or aren't very confident, it’s a good idea to start on something that’s not critical or cosmetic. I practiced on an old bucket!

the PRINCIPLE is that you place the two parts to be joined together, then you sort of 'stitch' the plastic together across the joint by stabbing the soldering iron into the plastic, the blade at 90 degrees to the crack or join, in little 'stitches' to give a sort of 'zip' effect.

This puts plastic across the join, and makes the two halves stick together. so the NEXT bit is to add new plastic to fill the holes, and then mix that in, and smear it about a bit, over a wider area, to get the new and old plastic properly joined, and get a good continuous piece of plastic without any cracks or scars where it will crack again!

So once you have your tools and materials sorted, you can start work. And the first thing is to look at what you are fixing and decide how to tackle it.

There are a lot of repairs you can make with plastic welding, and on a motorbike panel, you can weld up a crack, or re-join a part that has broken off. You can also fill holes and build up plastic by 'modelling' depending on how crafty you get.

For now, we want to put these noggins back on and build them up so they don’t break off again, and to get them aligned properly, tef has bolted the cowl and the broken noggins, back on the support rail to hold them in place.

Then JUST for now, 'stitched' across the joint to get the bits to stick together. He's done this BOTH sides, to make sure that the join and the filler plastic do go right the way through the part.

Once the noggins are attached, the frame rail can be removed so that the whole joint area can be worked. Tef stitched the areas of the join that were under the frame rail and washer, THEN used the soldering iron to 'valley' the join and put a groove in to take the filler plastic.

In this case the plastic was cut from a stak-a-box that had cracked, and Tef melts it roughly into the groove.

Once the filler rod, has been melted into the groove, it then has to be melted into the plastic around the groove to mix the different plastics and get a continiouse 'flow' across the joint.

Again, this has to be done on BOTH sides of the crack.
With the front roughly 'done' Tef put the support rail back on to keep the soft noggin aligned while building up the joint on the back.

And then built the area around it up with filler plastic, basically burying the washer in the part!

Not QUITE finished, but the whole area has been built up with filler plastic, fused into the original part over a wide area, and smoothed so as to put strength into the joint.

This bit needs a little finishing, and the hole re-making yet, but that’s basically how it’s done.

Other bits we've tackled include the case for the Speedo and taco.

This had two small cracks in the top. On parts like this, the joint has to be as smooth as possible, because it’s in a very visible area, and to make the part 'good' needs a bit more work after welding. In this case, MORE bludy sanding and painting!

The rear mudguards also have a habit of cracking around the clips where they attach to the frame rails at the bottom, and the bolt holes at the top.

The needles get the sun all year round so they get brittle, so this is our attempt in fixing them

Mould some plasticine big enough to put the needles in, press them down firmly and build the plasticine up around them

As this picture shows, that’s the araldite resin and hardener and some orange paint, we used to mend the needles

By mixing a small amount of each item we are ready to put it over the broken needles

By using something pointy smoothing it across the old needles so that it’s all over them

Then wait for them to become hard

Once they are hard peel them away from the plasticine

Then with a craft knife cut them into shape

making needles

These are the items you need to make needles fibreglass resin and harder paint and plasticine and the noggins off the old needles and a ruler and craft knife

Use the old needles before you take them off the noggins to make the moulds into the plasticine

Then by using the ruler you can make the mould deeper and then use the craft knife to build up the sides

Use a small amount of hand soap into the moulds so it be easy to take out the new needles once hard

Now mix up a small amount of resin, hardener, and paint into a small pot preferably not plastic as we found out it melted though!

Pour the mixture into the moulds

Then add the noggins and press them into the mixture

Once they have set you can peel away the plasticine

Cut away the excess

Then file them into shape

piccy of both the mended needles and the 1s we made, Mended needles can be painted, but the resin seeped through in the pin on the ones we made,so cant be screwed into the clocks

p.s on trying to get the resin out on the pin i snapped the needle....So round 1 needles win...................

OH and this morning a few parcles turned up Hmmmmmm goodies....................shineyyyyyyyyyyyyy,mineeeeeeeeeeeeeee Tef get your mits off my new shiney bits

My new X-Ring chain and spocket set

Goodridge brake hose
and a load more bits in the box,back brake shoes, head race bearings,an alarm,etc

Shiney new engine bars

A new shock

End of the last instalment, we were muggering about trying to make new needles for the speedo & tacho,So after a few experiments, and given my custom wolf-cub fascias,Tef struck on the idea of cutting a needle shape out of an old CD to give a sort of chrome effect needle. Only it didn't work! CD is laminated plastic, and when he cut into it, the layers all fell apart!

BUT, he was left with a thin sheet of clear plastic, that gave us an idea! And carefully shaping the plastic, and super gluing it onto the old needle boss, created a clear pointer than you could see the fascias through! And Tef painted the tips white, to make a proper pointer, and it looked pretty good!

Then, after much pondering, I decided NOT to paint the bike black.. I decided instead, on 'Dark Aubergine' from the Ford colour range. Err..... OK, its Black! But if you look carefully, and with the light at the right angle, ACTUALLY you can see its a very, OK very VERY, dark purple, with a tinge of red in it! Tef is now pissed off, as he has ten cans of high-gloss black 'spare', but I don't care!
But he's got his own back.. This little choice, merited some detail changes to stuff we had already done. Namely the switch-gear and the clocks. These had been painted gloss black. BUT, Tef pointed out that the pearlescent 'NOT BLACK' paint I had chosen was so subtle, that if we just painted the tank and panels in it, there wouldn't be enough angles to catch the light and show off the red tinge, and give people the cue it wasn't just plain black! So, we had to do all the other bits in it, to get some angles happening, show some contrast in colours and give the colour a chance to show itself.

So rather than strip back and re-paint, Tef simply NICKED all my loverly painted switch cases!
Handed me another set, off one of the other bikes, and told me to start again, using the Dark Aubergine!

The brake master cylinder is ALMOST done. That and a few other bits need to be properly cured and then given a last coat of solvent resist laquer, before they can be put back together. Switch cases are part done. One or two are vexing Tef, doing the steady hand job of adding the orange lettering! But we need that before we can put the switches back together and get the full wiring loom sorted.
This is NOT very interesting. In fact its down right bludy boring & I 'ate wigglies! But Tef keeps encouraging me.... "It wont do itself you know!" B'stard! So, the main harness has been loosely put on the bike, after Tef got me cleaning all the little contacts with fine sand-paper and Mr Muscle window cleaner! Spraying WD40 down the wires, and then cleaning them and giving them a coat of Back-to-Black.

The headlamp surround has been fitted because that's where all the wigglies gather, and I've put the horn on, and sorted some indicator stalks!

Here's the ignition coils fitted up. Tef got me to make up a new bit of wiring for them,

Soldering ring terminals onto a length of wire, to go between the bolts holding each of the coils on and the top engine mounting, to be sure of a good 'earth' for the ignition. Tef said, quite common to get bad earths on a restored bike, because of the paint on the frame.

I have FINALLY painted the engine. (Tef kept sending me back to do bits I missed, like the bottom!)

Gave Tef a little scare, putting my gloves on to use the paint stripper!

But I cant fit it yet, because I have to rebuild a lug on the starter motor, so THAT can be painted and bolted to the engine.

The Clocks however ARE now finished

Repainted case front gets a bead of clear silicone sealant to stick the glass in. Then the Glass gets stuck in it, and weighed down to set.

After curing over-night, the excess silicone was trimmed from the glass.

Then it was turned over and more silicon used to seal it in place from behind.

Originally the case front and dial surround were plastic welded together, sandwiching the glass in between with a rubber seal. This is then sold as a single part. We were going to use the original seal, but this was old hard and perished and could have let water into the case and fog the dail. So we bedded it in silicone instead.

The dials were fitted into the re-painted case back. Tef put a little silicon behind the frames, to help seal them against moisture, and to help stop them shaking apart.

Next the light box was fitted. Tef gave this a little silicone, too, to help stop it rattling inside the case.

The dial surround was then screwed into the case-back. Originally, welded to the case front, this would have held everything together. As we has spit the case front & dial surround to re-seal the galss, we had to use LOTS more silicon, and then some superglue to stick it all back together so it wouldn't fall apart and make sure it was water-proof!

All Done! But I ... err..... broke the tacho cable! So need to get new tacho & speedo cables before fitting them. Meanwhile, BITS being sprayed 'Not quite Black' are coming along, nicely. The footrest brackets are now DONE.... just need to find and finish the footrests before fitting them.

SEE! They're NOT Black!
Other niggly stuff that's been tackled has been the petrol tank and side-panels. Tef has been doing a bit of wizardry with old staka-box plastic and a soldering iron, re-making the lugs to hold on the side panels and tail cowling, but the first thing was to 'panel-beat' the side panels into shape, as they were a bit warped for some reason.

Tef did this with a couple of hammers and an electric blow-lamp! Clever, hugh!

Tef, getting cleverer with the soldering iron and bits of old scrap plastic snapped out of yet another broken stak-a-box!

First he welded two strips together to make a T section

Then added another to make an X section

Then he melted down the edges, using the molten plastic to fill the corners of the X and make the whole section the same width.

THEN he melted down all the 'spare' platic off the end, filling in the corners of the X for about 1/2" to make the 'head' (Phnar-Pnar! You'll see what I mean in a tic! I think its unfortunate that the stak-a-box he nicked the plastic from was red.... just sort of emphasises the phallic similarity!)

About 1" from the end, he melted a notch in the X section, and welded in another strip of plastic, to make the base of the lug where it would push through the rubber..(Oh gawd! The innuendo!)

He did that on all four sides, melting the spare plastic into the section to form a solid base, and then using more plastic melted into the bit above, shaped the 'head' (NOW do you see what I was laughing at!) And welded, using the spare plastic at the bottom to get (Tef's words not mine !) 'good penetration' (sheesh! I feel like I'm writing the captions for a porno mag, not a motorbike restoration! Must be my dirty mind!) {Err. Tef just said, DEFINITELY my dirty mind! LoL}

These are almost ready to be sanded properly, primed and painted.... only thanks to Halfords 2-Can stock holding, we don't have any paint at the moment!

We DO however have bushes for the rear suspension due to arrive from Dave Silver Spares. This means we can rebuild the rear suspension and put the swing arm back on. Annoyingly, these necessary bushes have cost a ridiculous £100, due to the design, and the fact that there are two bushes per pivot, and they cost about £10 EACH! But, this means that the linkages need to be prepped and painted to take them.

And when THAT'S done..... I have no wheels! They have been defying all attempts to take paint..... they are a pain in the arse! I'm thinking about nicking another pair, rather than persevering with these!

Idea was to paint them as they were horrible and scabby and scratched, and painted wheels would be 'different'. But since Tef has pointed out that they will probably take about four or five cans of this bludy hard to get 'not-quite-black'.... I'm wondering if they'll be worth the effort! Tef says he'll have 'one last go' at them, before we decide!

So..... there is progress, but its all that muddling in the middle sort of stuff where there's nothing interesting or important to report, or when it looks like there's anything ACTUALLY coming together.... Hopefully there will be SOON though......

I need this thing to ride to and from college!
OH! And I've got a New Tat!

Its a pair of Indian feathers. But Tef reckons if you turn it upside down, it looks like what I thought his side panel lug was! Must be HIS dirty mind!


This morning, the Pup, looked like this:-

NOW! It looks like THIS:-

It has an ENGINE!

Its only 9 bolts... but WHAT a difference it makes to how far it feels we've got!

Anyway, last post, Tef, wouldn't let me put the engine in, even though I had finished painting it, becouse he wanted the starter motor on first, becouse he said it was a right pain to try and fit after the engine was in the frame.

But, there was a chunk of metal missing of one of the bolt holes. I hunted and hunted for it, becouse I was just going to super-glue it back on, and hope for the best, but Tef had other ideas!
I cant be bothered to explain, but since he's written a 'how-to' for the webby about it, I'll just nick what he's written! Here you go!

HOW To: 'Repair Aluminium with 'Loaded' Epoxy

A useful little repair process this one that can be applied in all manner of ways to solve different problems. Basically, this was what we did before they offered proprietary glues and compounds like 'Liquid-Metal', and you can use it pretty much as you would those kind of metal glues. Its tough, sets like metal, & can be filed, drilled or tapped like aluminium. It can withstand heat almost as well as aluminium, and most solvents; even hot oil.

Making the epoxy/aluminium composite yourself, you have a lot more control over the consistency of the mix, making it more versatile still, while using regular 'Araldite', its a LOT cheaper than proprietary equivalents, and saved having hundreds of different tubes of glue, knocking around, leaking, going hard in the tubes, before you use them up!

So, to business! In this example, we used the loaded epoxy repair technique to rebuild a cracked mounting boss on the starter motor for Donna's 'Pup'. How it got broken in the first place is any-ones guess; probably over tightening the mounting bolt, or trying to remove the starter with a lump hammer or something! Doesn't matte, problem is that the boss around the bolt hole has cracked off and we need to build it back up again so that the bolt has something to press against and not bend, only pressing on one side.

Before ^. After V

Before & After pics, so you can see what we are at. Basically, gloop some 'stuff' around the broken chunk of metal, let it set, file and drill to shape!

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:- Epoxy Adhesive (Resin + Hardener); Aluminium Filings (To 'load' the epoxy)

First job is to make some fine aluminium filings! The higher the % of filings to glue, the more 'solid' and less plastic the material will be when set. Simple operation, grab a chunk of scrap aluminium, a file, and an old tea-tray, and file away as much metal as you need!

I had conveniently to hand a bit of extruded Ali support rail that had been hacked up off 'the heap' and made my filings from that. Old engine cases, bits of old green-house, pretty much anything you have to hand that would go in the recycling box, can be used. But once you have filed down a volume about equal to the volume you need to build up, you need to gather it up and put it in a suitable receptacle, like an aerosol lit, to mix with the glue.

But first you need to prepare the artefact you are going to 'gloop'. The area that's to be glooped needs to be properly cleaned so that the glue will stick to it. If its not bare metal, it may need wire-brushing or grinding back to get a
good surface to work on, that the glue can 'key' to. Then, you may need to mask around the area to be glooped, first to stop the glue going places you dont want it, but also to contain the glue in the region you want to build up. It will be runny, and it takes a while to cure, and in that time, it can often run, leaving you with little or no material where you want it!

Then you can mix the gloop. As a rough guide, about 50/50 glue to filings. Its often best to put the glue in one tub, then add the filings to suit, rather than the other way around. Mix until you have a thick, even consistency, the resin
and hardener thoroughly mixed, and the filings well wetted in the liquid.

Then using lollipop stick or other suitable application tool, gloop the mix over the area to be built up!

Allow to cure. Instructions for the epoxy should give a rough time for how long this should take, and loading the mix with filings shouldn't REALLY alter that, but its worth giving about 50% extra time to be sure its properly hardened.

After allowing to cure, check you have enough build. Sometimes during cure the gloop flows, or settles, or finds crevices to flow into, leaving your area short of material. No great problem, you can give it a second application if needs be, either before working, or after. In fact, some-times its easier to build up in stages, shaping between each build.

Once you have sufficient build, and the gloop has fully cured, it can be worked with conventional hand tools, to dress off any excess, and shape to your own satisfaction!

NOT the appropriate way to use an electric drill! Photo was 'staged' so you could see the bit coming out the back of the boss where built up! Proper way to do it is on a solid surface with a block of wood beneath! (which was how I actually DID do it, BTW!)

All shaped & ready to go! (Repair can be tidied up / disguised by painting, if needs be or left bare)

That is the principle of the technique, apply it as you wish. Yes, not a LOT different to what you can do with proprietary resins, and they can be more convenient. But this 'old fashioned' way gives you a little more versatility, using more or less aluminium, or depending on the part, iron filings, or perhaps even bronze or copper.

Using the same technique with bronze, its possible to repair or make 'low stress' bushes, for things like gear-lever pivots, or control levers, for example.

I have also used the same technique quite successfully on engine cases, where bosses or lugs have been chipped or broken, also on casings like the clutch or magneto covers, where they have been 'holed' or cracked by a drop. (quite a common one when I was riding comp-trials! If there was a rock, when you fell of, almost certain the oil holding clutch cover would find the sharpest bit of it, when you fell off)

That leads into slightly more involved techniques of resin repair, where phenolic, or GRP resin can be used instead of epoxy, for a more brittle plastic / metal composite, and for areas like casings where a smooth oil-tight finish is wanted, a 'tri-matrix' composite, using fibre-glass tissue to support the loaded resin. Getting REALLY clever with the stuff, its even possible to cast small parts out of the stuff.

Basically, with a little know-how and a feel for the materials, what can be done with resin composites is pretty incredible; might seem a bit botchit & scarper, glooping araldite over stuff, BUT, this is ACTUALLY pretty high tech stuff! Its only a small step from the exotic high-tech composite materials used in aerospace & motor-racing, where epoxy or phenol resin is still the main 'lattice' of the wonder-composites they use, and where 'loading' with powders like aluminium or bronze is quite a common technique for different applications.

But, point is, a bit of glue and a bit of scrap metal, and you CAN salvage complicated and expensive metal castings, and many other things![/quote]
Other than THAT, we have done a round of half the Halfords stores in Leicestershire, clearing them out of Ford Dark Aubergine paint, and now have FOUR CANS! Wh-Hoo!

So we did a 'paint test' to see what undercoat it looked best on. So Tef painted an old Ice-Cream tub lid!

First he gave it a coat of grey primer, then he sprayed over half of that with white primer, then he spraked half of it, cross wise, over both white and grey, with silver, so we would have four 'quarters', of different colour, when we put the 'Not-Quite-Black' over the top.

Yeah. Ok, Tef...... All looks the same to me!

He looked long and hard at it. Tilted it under the window, under the spot-lamp in the kitchen; waved it around in the living room, even went to the bottom of the garden to see what it looked like in day-light........

"Err.... I think we'll put ot over grey-primer, dear" he said.

"Thats what it says on the can, Babe...." I pointed out......

"Ah! Well, yes, it would. But you can see.... well, IF you look REALLY carefully, you get SLIGHTLY more 'sheene' over the silver......" I tilted my head at him...... "But its not really worth it for the cost of the silver paint to get it, for the difference it makes." He offered, in that 'knowingly' tone of voice!

SO! With the engine in the frame, and some paint obtained, and Tef having F-F-F-FINALLY finished plastic welding all the noggins onto my side-panels, its full speed ahead with painting.......

You said PAINTING, Tef!

Why do I need the sand-paper!?!?!?!?!?

Bludy Man!

Sand-Paper. sick of the site of the stuff!

Oh! his comment this afternoon when I showed him my progress on the petrol tank....

"Hmm.... coming along dear...... coming along...... SLOWLY...... but its coming along." He nodded sagely inspecting it closely, and nodding, though I know he thought it looked awful..."Now!" He said, firmly. "You know we had that discussion, where I said 'sand lightly' doesn't mean take it back to bare metal?" I nodded, waiting for the 'hit'..."Well, he said, it's nice to see you took that on board..... but err..... you wont get those pits out of the paint if you dont take ANY paint off around them"

Bludy, bludy bloke! Cant WIN wiv 'im, can I!

I sat on my motorbike today!

Well, it LOOKS more like a motorbike at least, and it makes motorbikie noises.... OK, that was me.... A girl can dream, cant she?!

Anyway, been doing lots of scritty-phiffing-little jobs, so nothing majorly exiting to write home about.

Bushes for the back end arrived on Monday morning. I was so exited I jumped on Tef lying in bed. He thought his luck was in, until he saw the jiffy bag....... He groaned, rolled over and went back to sleep!

So I put the kettle on, & went hunting for the linkage to put them in, but the old bushes were still in it, so I had to make coffee and wake the miserable old git up again!

After about three coffee's he was finally conciouse, and complaining that I was in hyper-drive!

So I sat and waited patiently, while he sat and measured each bush with his digital thingy-mi-bob..... and drew pictures of them.

THEN he had a look at the linkage... "Ah, RIGHT!" He said.... "Well, first of all we need to take th old ones out" I tapped my foot... I KNEW that! I just wanted to start bolting things together! Instead I watched and took pictures while he cut all the old bushes out. This is probably another 'How-To'.....

All the bushes in the linkage, apart from the one for the shock-absorber are a sort of plastic. Tef said that they are a complicated phenolic resin..... because when he cut into them, it smelled like hospitals..

Anyway, the bushes are 'split' and inside the hole there is a ridge in the casting to seperate them, so Tef ground slots through them with the dremmel, in three places.

Then levered out the bits (I know, Tef seems to be doing all the work! But, I am learning!..... Learning that I'm a bit heavy handed and would, as like have cut right through the links!)


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