12 steps for stripping off bodywork

1. Before bodywork removal commences, have a look over the bike and see how everything fits together. Make a space to store the panels and fittings so nowt gets lost or damaged.

2. Many fasteners will be hex-heads, but avoid using allen keys as they can scratch bodywork in confined places like this.  Hex-bit drivers or hex-head T-bars are better.

3. Your best bet is to start at the back and work forwards. You'll find your sportsbike's seat bolts tucked under the corner of the seat pad itself. Undo and put to one side...

4. ... until you have a pile of bits like this. Store everything out of the way, resting on old sheets or something soft and cosseting like the foam packing used here.

5. Moving slowly forward, start on the main fairing panels. Odd fasteners such as this may appear. Press on the middle to pop it open, then pull the whole thing out by hand.

6. Don't pull a panel off and put it down next to you or you risk stepping back on to it - that'll be £300 down the drain if you do. Instead, store it well out of the way.

7. Inner trim panels are favourites for odd types of fastener. These need gentle turning with a cross-head bit. Press in too hard and it won't come undone.

8. At the front you'll need to work out whether the headlights stay in place or come off with the fairing. The CBR's do the latter, so these bolts stay done up. Remove the rest and...

9. ... undo any connector blocks you come across along the way. You'll need to remove the mirrors and possibly the screen too before you get this far.

10. Pull the top fairing forward and feel for resistance - you may have missed a fastener, rubber gromit or wiring connector block.

11. Fuel tank next - in this case a dummy cover. If it's a 'real' tank be careful with the fuel line fittings. Have a rag handy to soak up nasty spillages.

12. Tank, fairing and tail piece off and job done. Make sure you keep all the fittings together. Better still,  modify a box like we did (see here).