1 Here's where it all begins. Before you go further, measure how much of the fork leg protrudes above the top yoke so they can be re-fitted in the same position. Also check the routeing of all cables and wiring. Take a snap with a digital camera for reference if you can.
2 Undo the pinch bolts using quality hex bits (not allen keys) or close-fitting sockets as needed. Access to the bottom yoke bolts can be tricky, so ensure you have a tool that can reach.
3 With the top yoke bolts and handlebars loosened and the lower pinch bolts still tight, undo the fork cap. It's easier to do it now than later once the forks are off the bike.
4 Undo the lower pinch bolts and slide the fork legs down and out, one at a time. Make sure the calipers are supported, not dangling loose on their hoses.
5 With the forks clear, completely undo the fork cap and pull it up - you can't remove it, though, it's still attached to the fork's internals at this point. Now you'll need a special tool.
6 Fix the special tool to the plastic spacer tube, then one person pushes down on the tool's handles while the other takes a photo before pulling up on the fork cap...
7 ...and sliding the H-shaped tool under the locknut, thus holding it in place ready for removal. Undo the locknut with a spannner and remove the fork cap.
8 Pull the fork spring clear, being careful not to get oil all over the living room carpet. Invert the fork over a tray and pump it a few times to get all the oil out, then leave it to drain fully.
9 Fill the fork with the recommended oil volume, and make fine adjustments with an air gap adjusting tool, like this one we made earlier. We reduced the GSX-R's air gap by 10mm.
10 Refit the spring and spacer tube, then fit the special tools to push down the spring while pulling up on the internals. Refit the H-plate and then the fork top. Again it's a two man job. Preset the rebound adjuster, screw in the fork cap, re-fit the forks and we're done.
