 This could be you next weekend |
FISHGUARD ferry port at 2am is like a scene from Night of the Living Dead. Half-human figures stagger around in a state of near-consciousness while cars tickover as their occupants attempt to stave off the boredom with late night radio. It's bleak, cold and mind-numbingly tedious. But not without its curious charms.
"What you boys doing then?" a thickly Irish accented voice squeaks in our direction from an open car window. Despite the hour the occupant seems full of the joys of life, ready to launch into conversation. Damn her. I mumble we're heading over the water for a day's riding.
"Oohh, you want to go to Courtown Beach, thats where. Courtown Beach, it's lovely. Courtown." Obviously overjoyed to find someone to talk to, our new friend is on a roll. She prods the sleeping figure in the passenger seat next to her, "they should go to Courtown, shouldn't they? Courtown beach."
"Courtown. Courtown!" the figure enthusiastically squawks, without opening an eye.
By now I'm convinced of several things. Not only is this Courtown place one of the wonders of the world, but the Irish can hold a conversation in their sleep and their friendliness is bordering on the obsessive. We utter some thanks, which isn't quite enough as it still takes a good five minutes to get out of a conversation. Courtown is mentioned 50 more times and just in case there's any doubt we're even shown it on a map. After this bombardment of one-way conversation I'm left feeling mentally drained, but also boosted. If the Irish can be this happy at 3am, what will they be like during opening hours?
Exploring the Emerald Isle has always been a target of mine, but short of a few boozy nights in Dublin I've never really had the chance. Having been cooped up in London for the last few months I was starting to go a bit stir-crazy and an escape was needed, a few hours away from it all. But like most of us, time off was an issue so a proper holiday was out of the question. But a ferry leaves Fishguard heading to Rosslare at 2:15am and returns at 9:15pm, a whole day in Ireland for only £82 return and the slight discomfort of spending two nights kipping on a ferry floor. Leave work at 5:30, ride the 280 miles from the office to Fishguard at a gentle pace, catch the ferry and be in Ireland for breakfast. The plan was made.
A quick shout around the office and Barry, the only member of staff who doesn't have children or a wife was onboard, along with the photographer. Lots of miles, mainly motorway, and tired bodies riding them limited the choice of bikes. The choice fell to big tourers, Kawasaki's all-singing GTR1400, Yamaha's old favourite FJR1300 and Honda's tried and tested Pan European. So, as everyone else in the office filtered home to screaming family bliss, we left on the route to peace and tranquillity.
The first leg of the journey involved a motorway slog as we made our way towards Wales. Not the most enjoyable miles but having covered the exact same route just a few weeks earlier on 1,000cc sportsbikes it was a pleasure to be cocooned in the comfort of the tourers. With adjustable screens and big, padded seats each bike's huge tank could be cleared out without a thought for comfort. Bagging the FJR for the first stint I hit a cruising speed of 90mph before flicking the 'up' switch on the screen and feeling the hand of God gently support my back. If you've not ridden a big tourer before this is exactly what it feels like as the screen defects the windblast around your body before it vortexes around to shove you in the back. It's an odd feeling, but aids the comfort and is something the FJR is very good at. Its screen is set just at the right height/angle to maximise the effect without blocking your view of the road ahead. 160 miles later, when the digital fuel gauge suggested a stop was on the cards I hardly knew I had even been riding a bike, except for a slightly aching wrist due to the FJR's heavy throttle action.
Fuelled up and ready for the push to Fishguard we traded keys. With the GTR the newest of the bunch we were all keen to have a shot on it to see if Kawasaki's latest attempt at big touring had hit the mark. Barry had bagged it for the first stint and the photographer had overloaded the Pan with his camera kit so now was my chance. But before leaving the fuel stop there was the small matter of working out how to start the thing. The GTR comes with a clever key system. The key locks in the ignition and can only be removed/activated if the remote fob is near it, a bit like the pass card system that some cars have. What this means is you can put the fob in you pocket and when you want to leave the bike just walk away, it automatically arms its immobilisor and secures the key in the ignition. Brilliant and simple.
The GTR's engine also has variable valve timing, not that you would know it. Although it's essentially a ZZR1400 motor, the GTR has none of its slightly limp bottom end, instead the GTR surges forward in a smooth and totally constant build-up of thrust. Compared to the only other bike with variable valves, Honda's VFR800, the GTR's system is light years ahead. There is no step in the power, nor jolt as the timing changes and if you didn't know it was there you would never guess. Which is a surprise considering the rest of the bike is so brutish.
 Urry, in all his glory, bless him |
Kawasaki doesn't do subtle. It invented the lurid green colour, revels in creating aggressive bikes and relishes its bad-boy reputation, something you can tell when you step on the GTR. It has a raw and purposeful feel about it. The clocks aren't pretty, the digital display is basic and functional and the styling angular and sharp. Where the FJR has a classy feel about it with a stylish pie-chart fuel gauge, neat clocks and flowing lines, the Kawasaki does exactly what it says on the tin. And does it extremely well.
The engine undoubtedly dominates the package, delivering enormous amounts of power and torque, but the rest of the bike complements it. The seating position is fantastically comfortable on motorways and the bars are set at the ideal height to avoid wrist ache. Having spent time on the FJR the Kawasaki's lighter throttle action was a blessing, but the screen wasn't. It seems like Kawasaki has deliberately kept the GTR's screen short to make you shell out the £150 for the bigger one. The whole point of an adjustable screen is that you can adjust it to suit your stature, so I'd much rather have a too tall screen that can be adjusted down, like the Honda's, rather than a short one as is on the GTR. You can get over it by adopting a slight crouch (and Kawasaki do a taller aftermarket option), but why should you?
You would have thought that 280 miles and 3am sailing would have been a perfect combination to send you to sleep, but with the choice of accommodation ranging from the stale beer-stench floor to the stained bar sofas this wasn't the case. And so, four hours later, three weary, not to mention smelly, travellers rolled into the Irish morning sun.
Which left the dilemma, where to go? Although we had formed a sort of plan involving the west coast, the photographer insisted that nothing goes fast in Ireland and we were better exploring Wicklow.
We pick up the N11 to Dublin. They don't appear to have dual carriageways in Ireland and no one rushes. Having grabbed the Pan Euro I settled into the flow of traffic, easing my tired brain back into action and enjoying the cover from the bright sunlight the overhanging trees were offering. For minimal-effort travel the Honda is fantastic. Like the others it's comfortable and roomy but its suspension is softer, especially compared to the Kawasaki. It's like sitting on a fast sofa. There is nothing flash, high tech or very clever about the Honda, but it feels sorted, refined.
The V4 engine is a beauty and is so easily over looked. The bottom end feels almost as strong as the Kawasaki and makes a lovely V4 sound. The throttle action is easy and it's only really when you ride the Pan that you realise how harsh the GTR's shaft-drive is and how stiff its suspension is. Hit a small bump and the Pan just glides over it - the Kawasaki tends to give you a bit of a kick in the pants. It's a well sorted package, but age is overcoming the Honda. Even as a new bike the Honda's brakes feel spongy and soft, the clocks are dated and the styling is muted.
After an hour of following the traffic we turned off the N11 and picked up the smaller R (regional) roads that surround the Lugnaquilla Mountain area. This area is Ireland at its best. I have to admit I didn't really know what to expect from Southern Ireland, I expected it to be fairly rural, but not quite as desolate as we found it. The back roads are narrow, twisty and for the most part fairly bumpy, but the scenery is stunning. Huge mountains dominate the sky while the low lands are covered in purple heather. It's like combining of the best parts of Scotland and Wales (the places, not the people) with the remoteness of Dartmoor. You can easily drive for 10 or 15 minutes without running into another soul. If you want to get away from the humdrum of modern life then there is no better place. Pack a picnic, a big rug, some decent company and let your worries wash away.
Sweeping through bend after bend the GTR's sportier chassis was making it the bike to be on. Although the larger bumps in the road still booted your arse out the seat, the handling is in a different class to the other two. Touring bikes tend to be long and low to maximise both rider and pillion comfort but the GTR manages to do this while still feeling compact. Where the FJR is noticeably long, and takes more effort to turn and while the Pan is soft and bouncy when the pace speeds up, the GTR drops into corners with more than a sporty feel to it.
But with scenery like the Wicklow Mountains all around we were more than happy to fall into the local's relaxed pace of life and we sat back and soaked it up. For gentle riding you really can't top big capacity bikes because with big cubes comes big grunt. Winding along the back roads simply involved a choice of two gears, second or third, with the engine's torque taking the strain. At these speeds there was little separating the bikes, with the FJR feeling slightly less powerful and not quite as smooth as the GTR, while the Pan's gearbox again showed its age with less than smooth changes. But if I'm honest here, none were an effort to ride at all and as the scenery rolled by and the heather gave way to forests, all three of us were in some relaxed hippy state of Zen. Ireland was having the desired effect.
Although the pace of life slowed down the passage of time refused to. Mindful of the hour, we started heading back to the ferry port. Passing B&Bs that were offering a night's accommodation for less than £20 the temptation was to stay another night and explore the costal beauty of Dingle Bay and the west coast. But a ferry crossing awaited us and pressing deadlines demanded our return.
 FJR1300 - a great blend of sports and tourer |
Settling down in between stains on the ferry's sofa to grab a few hours kip I couldn't help but feel we had missed out a bit on our Irish trip. I was left wanting more, and our 24-hour leave pass simply didn't offer enough time to fully indulge. And I wasn't alone in these thoughts, Barry and Oli both agreed that they wanted to return, and for the miniscule cost who could blame them? Southern Ireland would be a fantastic cheap adventure for a weekend away. Leave work on Friday, be in Ireland by Saturday then stay in a B&B before heading home, and all for less than £100 plus fuel.
Of the bikes, Kawasaki's new GTR comes out on top. It just ticks more boxes than the other two. Where the Pan is now feeling its age (beautiful engine, very comfortable, but saggy and breathless next to the others), and the FJR is an older rider's straight-line machine, Kawasaki have sat back, used the best bits of their competitor's designs, then added their own huge dollop of character and performance. If you want to see a new country in complete comfort and in no time at all, the GTR is the bike of the moment.
Inspired? Then do it
BUDGET FOR £120 IN PETROL TO GET THERE AND BACK FROM LONDON. B&BS IN IRELAND COST FROM £20 TO £50 A NIGHT, DEPENDING ON REMOTENESS! FERRY CROSSINGS FROM FISHGUARD TO ROSSLARE ARE £35 FOR THE SLOW BOAT OR £45 FOR THE FAST ONE EACH WAY FOR A BIKE AND PASSENGER. BOOK TICKETS AT WWW.STENALINE.CO.UK OR CALL (08705) 707070
SPECS | Honda ST1300 TYPE - TOURER PRODUCTION DATE - 2007 PRICE NEW - £11,599 ENGINE CAPACITY - 1261cc POWER - 116bhp@8000rpm TORQUE - 86.3lb.ft@6500rpm WEIGHT - 229kg SEAT HEIGHT - 810mm FUEL CAPACITY - N/A TOP SPEED - N/A 0-60 - n/a TANK RANGE - N/A | Kawasaki GTR1400 TYPE - TOURER | Yamaha FJR1300 TYPE - TOURER PRODUCTION DATE - 2007 PRICE NEW - £11,999 AUTO ENGINE CAPACITY - 1295cc POWER - 132bhp@8000rpm TORQUE - 94lb.ft@7000rpm WEIGHT - 268kg SEAT HEIGHT - 805mm FUEL CAPACITY - N/A TOP SPEED - N/A 0-60 - n/a TANK RANGE - N/A Fishguard ferry port at 2am is like a scene from Night of the Living Dead. Half-human figures stagger around in a state of near-consciousness while cars tickover as their occupants attempt to stave off the boredom with late night radio. It's bleak, cold and mind-numbingly tedious. But not without its curious charms. "What you boys doing then?" a thickly Irish accented voice squeaks in our direction from an open car window. Despite the hour the occupant seems full of the joys of life, ready to launch into conversation. Damn her. I mumble we're heading over the water for a day's riding. "Oohh, you want to go to Courtown Beach, thats where. Courtown Beach, it's lovely. Courtown." Obviously overjoyed to find someone to talk to, our new friend is on a roll. She prods the sleeping figure in the passenger seat next to her, "they should go to Courtown, shouldn't they? Courtown beach." By now I'm convinced of several things. Not only is this Courtown place one of the wonders of the world, but the Irish can hold a conversation in their sleep and their friendliness is bordering on the obsessive. We utter some thanks, which isn't quite enough as it still takes a good five minutes to get out of a conversation. Courtown is mentioned 50 more times and just in case there's any doubt we're even shown it on a map. After this bombardment of one-way conversation I'm left feeling mentally drained, but also boosted. If the Irish can be this happy at 3am, what will they be like during opening hours? Exploring the Emerald Isle has always been a target of mine, but short of a few boozy nights in Dublin I've never really had the chance. Having been cooped up in London for the last few months I was starting to go a bit stir-crazy and an escape was needed, a few hours away from it all. But like most of us, time off was an issue so a proper holiday was out of the question. But a ferry leaves Fishguard heading to Rosslare at 2:15am and returns at 9:15pm, a whole day in Ireland for only £82 return and the slight discomfort of spending two nights kipping on a ferry floor. Leave work at 5:30, ride the 280 miles from the office to Fishguard at a gentle pace, catch the ferry and be in Ireland for breakfast. The plan was made. A quick shout around the office and Barry, the only member of staff who doesn't have children or a wife was onboard, along with the photographer. Lots of miles, mainly motorway, and tired bodies riding them limited the choice of bikes. The choice fell to big tourers, Kawasaki's all-singing GTR1400, Yamaha's old favourite FJR1300 and Honda's tried and tested Pan European. So, as everyone else in the office filtered home to screaming family bliss, we left on the route to peace and tranquillity. Inspired? Then do it Budget for £120 in petrol to get there and back from London. B&Bs in Ireland cost from £50 to £50 a night, depending on remoteness. Ferry crossings from Fishguard to Rosslare are £35 for the slow boat and £45 for the fast one each way for a bike and passenger. Book tickets at www.stenalive.co.uk or call 08705 707070. The first leg of the journey involved a motorway slog as we made our way towards Wales. Not the most enjoyable miles but having covered the exact same route just a few weeks earlier on 1,000cc sportsbikes it was a pleasure to be cocooned in the comfort of the tourers. With adjustable screens and big, padded seats each bike's huge tank could be cleared out without a thought for comfort. Bagging the FJR for the first stint I hit a cruising speed of 90mph before flicking the 'up' switch on the screen and feeling the hand of God gently support my back. If you've not ridden a big tourer before this is exactly what it feels like as the screen defects the windblast around your body before it vortexes around to shove you in the back. It's an odd feeling, but aids the comfort and is something the FJR is very good at. Its screen is set just at the right height/angle to maximise the effect without blocking your view of the road ahead. 160 miles later, when the digital fuel gauge suggested a stop was on the cards I hardly knew I had even been riding a bike, except for a slightly aching wrist due to the FJR's heavy throttle action. Fuelled up and ready for the push to Fishguard we traded keys. With the GTR the newest of the bunch we were all keen to have a shot on it to see if Kawasaki's latest attempt at big touring had hit the mark. Barry had bagged it for the first stint and the photographer had overloaded the Pan with his camera kit so now was my chance. But before leaving the fuel stop there was the small matter of working out how to start the thing. The GTR comes with a clever key system. The key locks in the ignition and can only be removed/activated if the remote fob is near it, a bit like the pass card system that some cars have. What this means is you can put the fob in you pocket and when you want to leave the bike just walk away, it automatically arms its immobilisor and secures the key in the ignition. Brilliant and simple. The GTR's engine also has variable valve timing, not that you would know it. Although it's essentially a ZZR1400 motor, the GTR has none of its slightly limp bottom end, instead the GTR surges forward in a smooth and totally constant build-up of thrust. Compared to the only other bike with variable valves, Honda's VFR800, the GTR's system is light years ahead. There is no step in the power, nor jolt as the timing changes and if you didn't know it was there you would never guess. Which is a surprise considering the rest of the bike is so brutish. Kawasaki doesn't do subtle. It invented the lurid green colour, revels in creating aggressive bikes and relishes its bad-boy reputation, something you can tell when you step on the GTR. It has a raw and purposeful feel about it. The clocks aren't pretty, the digital display is basic and functional and the styling angular and sharp. Where the FJR has a classy feel about it with a stylish pie-chart fuel gauge, neat clocks and flowing lines, the Kawasaki does exactly what it says on the tin. And does it extremely well. The engine undoubtedly dominates the package, delivering enormous amounts of power and torque, but the rest of the bike complements it. The seating position is fantastically comfortable on motorways and the bars are set at the ideal height to avoid wrist ache. Having spent time on the FJR the Kawasaki's lighter throttle action was a blessing, but the screen wasn't. It seems like Kawasaki has deliberately kept the GTR's screen short to make you shell out the £150 for the bigger one. The whole point of an adjustable screen is that you can adjust it to suit your stature, so I'd much rather have a too tall screen that can be adjusted down, like the Honda's, rather than a short one as is on the GTR. You can get over it by adopting a slight crouch (and Kawasaki do a taller aftermarket option), but why should you? You would have thought that 280 miles and 3am sailing would have been a perfect combination to send you to sleep, but with the choice of accommodation ranging from the stale beer-stench floor to the stained bar sofas this wasn't the case. And so, four hours later, three weary, not to mention smelly, travellers rolled into the Irish morning sun. Which left the dilemma, where to go? Although we had formed a sort of plan involving the west coast, the photographer insisted that nothing goes fast in Ireland and we were better exploring Wicklow. We pick up the N11 to Dublin. They don't appear to have dual carriageways in Ireland and no one rushes. Having grabbed the Pan Euro I settled into the flow of traffic, easing my tired brain back into action and enjoying the cover from the bright sunlight the overhanging trees were offering. For minimal-effort travel the Honda is fantastic. Like the others it's comfortable and roomy but its suspension is softer, especially compared to the Kawasaki. It's like sitting on a fast sofa. There is nothing flash, high tech or very clever about the Honda, but it feels sorted, refined. The V4 engine is a beauty and is so easily over looked. The bottom end feels almost as strong as the Kawasaki and makes a lovely V4 sound. The throttle action is easy and it's only really when you ride the Pan that you realise how harsh the GTR's shaft-drive is and how stiff its suspension is. Hit a small bump and the Pan just glides over it - the Kawasaki tends to give you a bit of a kick in the pants. It's a well sorted package, but age is overcoming the Honda. Even as a new bike the Honda's brakes feel spongy and soft, the clocks are dated and the styling is muted. After an hour of following the traffic we turned off the N11 and picked up the smaller R (regional) roads that surround the Lugnaquilla Mountain area. This area is Ireland at its best. I have to admit I didn't really know what to expect from Southern Ireland, I expected it to be fairly rural, but not quite as desolate as we found it. The back roads are narrow, twisty and for the most part fairly bumpy, but the scenery is stunning. Huge mountains dominate the sky while the low lands are covered in purple heather. It's like combining of the best parts of Scotland and Wales (the places, not the people) with the remoteness of Dartmoor. You can easily drive for 10 or 15 minutes without running into another soul. If you want to get away from the humdrum of modern life then there is no better place. Pack a picnic, a big rug, some decent company and let your worries wash away. Sweeping through bend after bend the GTR's sportier chassis was making it the bike to be on. Although the larger bumps in the road still booted your arse out the seat, the handling is in a different class to the other two. Touring bikes tend to be long and low to maximise both rider and pillion comfort but the GTR manages to do this while still feeling compact. Where the FJR is noticeably long, and takes more effort to turn and while the Pan is soft and bouncy when the pace speeds up, the GTR drops into corners with more than a sporty feel to it. But with scenery like the Wicklow Mountains all around we were more than happy to fall into the local's relaxed pace of life and we sat back and soaked it up. For gentle riding you really can't top big capacity bikes because with big cubes comes big grunt. Winding along the back roads simply involved a choice of two gears, second or third, with the engine's torque taking the strain. At these speeds there was little separating the bikes, with the FJR feeling slightly less powerful and not quite as smooth as the GTR, while the Pan's gearbox again showed its age with less than smooth changes. But if I'm honest here, none were an effort to ride at all and as the scenery rolled by and the heather gave way to forests, all three of us were in some relaxed hippy state of Zen. Ireland was having the desired effect. Although the pace of life slowed down the passage of time refused to. Mindful of the hour, we started heading back to the ferry port. Passing B&Bs that were offering a night's accommodation for less than £20 the temptation was to stay another night and explore the costal beauty of Dingle Bay and the west coast. But a ferry crossing awaited us and pressing deadlines demanded our return. Settling down in between stains on the ferry's sofa to grab a few hours kip I couldn't help but feel we had missed out a bit on our Irish trip. I was left wanting more, and our 24-hour leave pass simply didn't offer enough time to fully indulge. And I wasn't alone in these thoughts, Barry and Oli both agreed that they wanted to return, and for the miniscule cost who could blame them? Southern Ireland would be a fantastic cheap adventure for a weekend away. Leave work on Friday, be in Ireland by Saturday then stay in a B&B before heading home, and all for less than £100 plus fuel. Of the bikes, Kawasaki's new GTR comes out on top. It just ticks more boxes than the other two. Where the Pan is now feeling its age (beautiful engine, very comfortable, but saggy and breathless next to the others), and the FJR is an older rider's straight-line machine, Kawasaki have sat back, used the best bits of their competitor's designs, then added their own huge dollop of character and performance. If you want to see a new country in complete comfort and in no time at all, the GTR is the bike of the moment. Specifications SPECS - HONDA SPECS - KAWASAKI SPECS - YAMAHA Latest Reviews |
