How to Buy the Right Helmet

Notoriously fragile, your head’s worth protecting. Follow these four steps to hard-hat happiness

Posted: 22 April 2010
by Ben Miller

1. Choose your style

Wendy Hearn is Arai UK’s marketing supremo: “Consider what kind of riding you do. If you spend all your time on motorways you’ll need a helmet that performs in a different way to one that’s designed for city dwellers. If you spend a lot of time riding two-up, an open-face or flip-front helmet can be useful since they can make communication easier in town. Race replica helmets might not be the best option. The vents, visor aperture and chin bar are all designed to suit racing, not commuting.”

2. Features and budget

Now that you know what style of helmet you’re looking for, you need to consider your budget. Regardless of the Sharp rating system – the flawed DFT-backed initiative designed to help people choose helmets – what your mates suggest or what the salesman in the shop says, you need to set a budget and spend all of it. Doing this will narrow down your options and allow you to consider the features you want. Built-in bluetooth is gaining popularity, but do you really want someone yapping in your ear?

3. The perfect fit

Paul Mousell is the race and dealer technician for Shoei helmets in the UK: “I recommend you ask the salesman to help measure you up. Line up the helmets you want and wear each one for at least five minutes. You may feel a little stupid but you won’t find out what the helmet feels like unless you spend some time in. After a few minutes, pressure points on your head will let you know if a helmet is working with your head shape. Play with the retaining system, too. The seatbelt type are easy to use with gloves on but don’t provide the security of a traditional double D-ring.”

4. Looking after it

Never put your gloves inside your helmet when you get off your bike as the dirt and fuel residue on your gloves will kill the inside of your helmet. Velcro fasteners will also tear at the fabric of the lining as you yank your gloves out. Clean your helmet properly at least once a week but ensure the cleaning products used are suitable. If you are using a Pinlock or a Fog City, take it out and clean it periodically. If you are unsure about refitting any parts, speak to the shop you bought it from. Most staff are trained in helmet aftercare as well as sales and will be happy to give you advice.



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Discuss this story

Being on a limited budget I usually buy a secondhand helmet from the boot sale, the last 2 have been Shoeis which I've been happy with (last one cost £25) but thought I'd push the boat out and get a new flip front from a dealer this time and spent £150 on a Shark Openline.
In the shop it felt nice and solid, fitted nicely, everything closing with a satisfying clunk, internal sunvisor etc. but get up to 70mph on the motorway and the helmet surprises you with a loud screech everytime you look ahead in a normal position. To prevent this noise you have to keep your head lowered. I've had the helmet back to the dealer who sent it back to the agents and they said nothing wrong with it. I've tried taping up the ventilation inlets no improvement. I changed the windscreen on my bike in case it was an interaction with that, and then I switched my bike to another sports bike. The helmets great if I don't go over 60mph.I cannot believe Shark have had no other complaints, surely everyone goes over 60mph these days. It's the last Shark helmet I will ever buy.

Posted: 08/03/2013 at 16:50

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Posted: 10/03/2013 at 15:20

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