suzuki vl 125 problems

hello

im new to the site, i just got my first bike- a suzuki intruder vl 125, but im having a problem with it and i deseperatly need help,

the bike wont start by normal means of pulling the clutch in and using the electric starter, ive checked the engine cut off switch is in the correct postion, the bike is turned on and with fuel in it, and the lights etc work but it just wont spark up!

i can get it started by using a screw driver on the the two points near the battery to short circuit the bike- and this way it does start and run fine but of course i know this isnt good for the bike and is very annoying!- ive been told it is the 'solenoid'? but me being a complete novice i dont have a clue any advise?



cheers in advance

When you say it won't spark up, is the starter motor actually turning?

What you are doing with the screwdriver is shorting out the starter solenoid so you've proved that
a: the starter motor works
b: the ignition works

so it sounds like you're just not getting the starter to turn off the button. This is usually due to a 'stuck' safety cutout switch, either on the clutch or the side stand.

the engine isnt even making a clicking noise or anything when i pull the clutch in and press the button.

its as if the button is dead- is that still the solenoid?

its just ive been told that cos the lights and stuff dont dim and the engine does actually run when i 'use the screwdriver' its has to be my solenoid on the way out

is that true?

Possible, but it's more likely to be one of the safety cut-outs. There's obviously one in the clutch lever if you usually pull that in to start the bike, but there's also one on the prop stand, and the bike needs to be in neutral as well.

Have a look under the clutch lever and you'll probably see a small wiring harness and a push switch that pops out when you pull the lever in - make sure it's not stuck in. If it is give it a squirt of WD 40 or similar and then gently tease it out with pliers. More squirty and keep pushing and pulling until it works on it's own. If it won't then it's crackered.

Same sort of thing down by the prop stand

So to check the cut outs one method is to get a small piece of wire and earth each switch in turn..there will be three cut out switches clutch leaver,neutral and side stand..in addition your starter switch may be either knackered or not joined to the loom properly by shorting the solenoid your by-passing the cut outs and the starter switch so whilst the bike will start you don't know where the problem lies..to find the problem..first check all connections ie unplug them clean them and re plug them in..if still no go

1. Find out where the clutch cutout wires join the loom..unplug both wires and then join them (looms side) with the little piece of wire..make sure the bikes in neutral side stand up and try the starter..if it doens't work go to 2 if it works then your clutch switch is either knackered or stuck take the clutch lever off and check the switch moves..WD 40 try again with it plugged into the loom..no go? buy new switch


2 .Plug it all back together and do the same with the side stand switch this time hold in the clutch..side stand down and bike in neutral..if it starts then the side stand switch may be knackered or stuck check the switch moves..whne the side stand is up and down WD 40 try again with it plugged into the loom..no go? buy new switch

3. Neutral switch is the most annoying to check..because of its position the switch will be near the gear lever and will be usully screwed into the engine case. If the neutral light is on the switch itself is usually working but it maybe not connected to the cutout circuit correctly..check the connection if this is look ok then I'd blame the starter button or its connections to the loom.

4. take the starter switch apart and clean the connections inside then try again..

If you still got problems report back..if any one wants to correct me feel free..other than grammar and spelling of course. If your ok with a voltage tester you could check each switch in turn..

Hi

I've just bought a Suzuki vl 125 Intruder, after a few days i was not able to switch gears, only between 3/4 works, have fitted a new clutch which gave some improvement, but gears still seem to be sticking?, I haven't got a clue, can anyone help, please.

Thank you in advance

Can you change gears with the engine off, and rocking the bike backwards and forwards?

Is the clutch generally working OK otherwise?

Are the gear lever & any shafts / pivots  clean, lubricated & moving freely?

---

arrrf.

Here on behalf of my son.....he's got a 125 intruder....it cut out whilst riding along, will turn over but not start...battery is fine, plugs fine, even got a new cdi....still no joy.... any idea's.....please

Thanks Helz

Combustion requires 3 things:

Compression. Fuel.  Sparks at the right time.

Is it actually sparking? Take a spark plug out, plug it back into its HT lead, hold the plug threads firmly against bare metal on the engine and check it's sparking as you turn the engine over. If yes, is it a good, fat blue spark? Then lift the plug off the engine *ever* so slightly, and gradually increase the distance between plug and engine to guage how far the spark can jump.

Next - has it actually got fuel in the tank? If yes, is the petrol tap in the right position? If the fuel's low it might need to be on "res". Is fuel getting as far as the carb? You should be able unscrew the drain screw at the bottom of the carb float bowls. Preferably with a small plastic tub beneath them - that way if there IS fuel in there (there should be) then you can also collect it & check it's condition - looking for dirt, rust, water, emulsion etc.

Should only take half  an hour to check those carefully (check the sparks first - BEFORE you're surrounded by petrol vapour)... Also, you DO need to check both...

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arrrf.

Thank you, appreciate your help......told him to buy a Honda

Just in case anyone has a similar prob as above.....turned out to be a corroded wire to the side stand.....I know!!! not summat you think of instantly as the bike cut out as he was riding along....have since heard of another suzuki intruder having the same prob, so worth bearing in mind

That's unusual - generally if the side-stand / clutch / neutral inter-lock circuit isn't working the starter motor won't turn over either. If I remember I'll take a look at a wiring diagram and see if it should behave like that.

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arrrf.

does the suzuki vl 125 intruder have a problem with over fueling? mine hasnt stopped doing and cant figure out why. end up thinking we've sorted it and it will be fine for the rest of the day and the next if im lucky then starts over fueling again and cuts out on me. we've checked the carbs and it seem to be fine no bits of crap in them and parts seem to work ok, the tank is fine. there just isnt a vacume i have to shut the fuel supply off all the time with the tap. boyfriend thinks it may have something to do with the needle in carbs as it should shut off the fuel supply automatically BUT it doesnt.

anyone offer me some advice?

First off, what makes you say it's over fuelling? What are the symptoms? When did they start?

Second - yes, if it is over-fuelling then it's likely to be the float valve (not the needle jet). This can fail to close because of dirt in the valve, a worn valve, an incorrectly adjusted float, or a punctured or aged float.

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arrrf.

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hi im having the same problem Helz had. how did you fix it? please! its driving me to distraction!! 

When you say "same problem" - presumably you mean "cutting out while riding along"? That could be a LOT of things.

Is it very sudden & random? Or does it stutter and die over a few seconds?

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arrrf.

Cant get a spark out of my intruder 125. just wondered if anyone has any ideas on how to check the cdi unit? im a bit desperate to get it running.  i have a megga steep drive so i cant just wheel it into the van. just thought someone might have a procedure on what to do first. i have a workshop manual coming but i will be twiddling my thumbs for the next few days. appreciate any advice

CDI units are pretty reliable - it's the connectors in the electrical system that are the least reliable parts

what have you tried / tested so far? and how?

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arrrf.

well ive not done anthing yet. i think its an o4 or o5 and low miles. it has been left outside for quite a while, nearly a year so maybe i should look at the connector first? i dont have a spark off either coil so doubtfull both coils have gone out the same time im guessing. im hoping when i get the manual delivered it may tell me a bit more. i really need to get it running for the spring and thats not far away now. l could do with knowing what voltages and where

just love to know where to start tappy