how to change oil on zx9r

13 messages
08/04/2009 at 11:34

Hi all, just back into biking and got myself a 2001 zx9r E2. I am looking to do some servicing on it and would appreciate advice, just in case I do someting stupid. First I will change oil and filter Then air filter.

Cheers any help.

08/04/2009 at 12:04

First thing is to buy a workshop manual or download one. 2nd thing is to read it as it will be a very useful tool. Very briefly warm the engine up to normal operating temperature. Have the bike on a paddock stand if you have one. stop the engine and remove the oil filler plug on top of the casing. Locate the sump plug stick a suitable container big enough to hold 5l/1 gal of oil under the sump and undo it lefty lefty looosey loosey, righty righty tighty tighty go the wrong way and you will strip the threads. Drain the oil. Then undo the filter with either a filter tool strap spanner or a pair of grips big enough to grip the filter. Again with a suitable container underneath. Stuff a rag around the downpipes to save them being plastered in oil. Once drained put some clean oil around the O ring on the new filter and tighten by hand. Replace the sump plug and do not overtighten. Add new oil to the appropiate amount . I always put a couple of hundred ML less than recommended first. Replace filler cap and run the engine for a few minutes. Top up oil as necessary. Take the bike off the paddock stand when checking the oil level.

Hope this helps


"THINK" it's not illegal yet.
08/04/2009 at 13:30

Thanks. Been looking at 2nd hand manuals, does any one know if there are any major changes between the C and E models cause there are loads for the C not so many for the E.

Thanks.

08/04/2009 at 14:41
08/04/2009 at 15:16
Brilliant. Thanks for the info.
08/04/2009 at 22:23

Make sure that the bike is level when draining the oil otherwise you won't get it all out. Paddock stands are a great idea so long as you fit them front and rear.

Other than that follow Mac-Cechts advice and you'll be fine.

One tip - If possible get hold of a magnetic sump plug to replace the standard one. No scientific proof that they do anything but then anything that takes swarf out of the oilways is a good thing.


98% of the time I'm right. Why worry about the other 3%.

08/04/2009 at 23:02
falcorob wrote (see)

Make sure that the bike is level when draining the oil otherwise you won't get it all out. Paddock stands are a great idea so long as you fit them front and rear.

Other than that follow Mac-Cechts advice and you'll be fine.

One tip - If possible get hold of a magnetic sump plug to replace the standard one. No scientific proof that they do anything but then anything that takes swarf out of the oilways is a good thing.

Magnetic sump plugs are great for diagnosing a fucked engine, if theres swarf on it where's it come from?.
skoobysnaxxs wrote (see)

Thanks. Been looking at 2nd hand manuals, does any one know if there are any major changes between the C and E models cause there are loads for the C not so many for the E.

Thanks.

Haynes manual covers B, C, and E models. C and E models are mainly cosmetic changes, the engines are almost identical.


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a22/huwevans/blacklight.gif

Bringing bling to life

http://www.myspace.com/loosehounds

Go to track 2 Come the Night written by our very own Katseye

Please visit the Charity Trackday site

A mind of useless info. If i can ever remember anything.

Demolish in a day. Rebuild in a decade

09/04/2009 at 12:26
dooffle9 wrote (see)
falcorob wrote (see)

Make sure that the bike is level when draining the oil otherwise you won't get it all out. Paddock stands are a great idea so long as you fit them front and rear.

Other than that follow Mac-Cechts advice and you'll be fine.

One tip - If possible get hold of a magnetic sump plug to replace the standard one. No scientific proof that they do anything but then anything that takes swarf out of the oilways is a good thing.

Magnetic sump plugs are great for diagnosing a fucked engine, if theres swarf on it where's it come from?.

You will always get a certain amount of debris in used engine oil as moving parts move against other moving parts. Different parts of an engine get to temperature at different speeds, manufacturing tolerances aren't brilliant, things (such as camchains) go out of adjustment. Telling a fairly inexperienced guy that his engine is fucked if he finds a small amount of swarf in his old oil is tantamount to scaremongering.

skoobysnaxxs wrote (see)

Thanks. Been looking at 2nd hand manuals, does any one know if there are any major changes between the C and E models cause there are loads for the C not so many for the E.

Thanks.

Haynes manual covers B, C, and E models. C and E models are mainly cosmetic changes, the engines are almost identical.

This is true. Only the F got the full power engine.

98% of the time I'm right. Why worry about the other 3%.

09/04/2009 at 19:34
Same engine Rob


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a22/huwevans/blacklight.gif

Bringing bling to life

http://www.myspace.com/loosehounds

Go to track 2 Come the Night written by our very own Katseye

Please visit the Charity Trackday site

A mind of useless info. If i can ever remember anything.

Demolish in a day. Rebuild in a decade

09/04/2009 at 20:32

Just finished servicing mine, (E1), piece of piss! Oil and filter, plugs, magnetic sump plug, NGK plugs and standard air filter.

I went for the service kit from M&P which was 50 squids which included 10W 40 Synthetic Fuchs oil, filter, NGK plugs. Also got the pattern air filter from them. Magnetic sump plug and oil filter wrench tool from Wemoto

Get a Haynes manual, excellent. Cover all the 9's and the 7R also.

Highly recommend a torque wrench for tightening everything, people say don't overtighten the plugs but taking my old ones out they were less than hand tight!!!

Torque tighten everything, sump nut, oil filter and plugs...trust me.



/members/images/160615/Gallery/vd-qwak.jpg/members/images/160615/Gallery/Cat.jpg
09/04/2009 at 21:27
dooffle9 wrote (see)
Same engine Rob
You wish.

98% of the time I'm right. Why worry about the other 3%.

18/05/2009 at 16:15

help!! zx9 ninja running like crap, strugling to get acceleraton..revs go up seems like carb icing??? not happenend before. bike stored for year started ok.any suggestions, take to garage?

Thanks in advance

18/05/2009 at 21:27

 Groll wrote (see)

help!! zx9 ninja running like crap, strugling to get acceleraton..revs go up seems like carb icing??? not happenend before. bike stored for year started ok.any suggestions, take to garage?

Thanks in advance

Bit more info other than running like crap would help.

What year/model.

First thing would be to give the carbs a good clean, new fuel filter,and check the fuel pump isn't siezed. Then drain and refil the tank with fresh fuel.


TimskiT wrote (see)

Just finished servicing mine, (E1), piece of piss! Oil and filter, plugs, magnetic sump plug, NGK plugs and standard air filter.

I went for the service kit from M&P which was 50 squids which included 10W 40 Synthetic Fuchs oil, filter, NGK plugs. Also got the pattern air filter from them. Magnetic sump plug and oil filter wrench tool from Wemoto

Get a Haynes manual, excellent. Cover all the 9's and the 7R also.

Highly recommend a torque wrench for tightening everything, people say don't overtighten the plugs but taking my old ones out they were less than hand tight!!!

Torque tighten everything, sump nut, oil filter and plugs...trust me.

Whats the torque setting for the plugs then


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a22/huwevans/blacklight.gif

Bringing bling to life

http://www.myspace.com/loosehounds

Go to track 2 Come the Night written by our very own Katseye

Please visit the Charity Trackday site

A mind of useless info. If i can ever remember anything.

Demolish in a day. Rebuild in a decade

Edited: 18/05/2009 at 21:28
Your say
email image
13 messages
Forum Jump