Guzzi clutch adjustment

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Guzzi clutch adjustment

Hey ho! The Voyager has an MOT! I've been riding it about getting it sorted (see pics of the creator on it here!)

One problem - I can't remember how to adjust a Guzzi clutch properly. It is fine when cold - but drags when warm. Was a bit of a bugger in Bristol traffic yesterday....

I have tried adjusting the cable adjuster (2 x 13mm nuts) by the side of the gearbox but it just seesm to give me a shorter pull on the cable. I need reminding how to set these buggers up properly.....I have a vague recollection of a complicated process on my old BMW's but age seems to have got the better of my memory. Anyone remember?

Hey lookin good!! Its a machine that aint it!On the back of the box there is an arm. the arm has a little adjuster omn it that pushes a long pushrod thorugh the giearbox input shaft and pushes the clutch apart. Its important that you have a little free play here or the pushrod will spin round at engine speed and it will bugger up the the little thrust bearing.I tend to take the cable off the lever and check you have a little free play on the gearbox lever. About 2mm is ok. Then connec tup up the cable at the gearbox lever and sort it out there, then do it at the hand lever. You know the dril lcheck the cable is not stuffed and its not routed wrong, or too close tho the engine. make sure its not stretching either.If it still drags give us a shout back.Kev

Sometimes if they've not been used for a long time one or more of the floating plates in the clutch stick to the splined boss, if you're lucky they should free themselves off with use. I don't adjust mine much, I'll have a look in the manual tonight and post tomorrow unless someone else does first

KFZ wrote

On the back of the box there is an arm. the arm has a little adjuster omn it that pushes a long pushrod thorugh the giearbox input shaft and pushes the clutch apart. Its important that you have a little free play here or the pushrod will spin round at engine speed and it will bugger up the the little thrust bearing.

SUCCESS!! There was no play in the lever at all (and it was a right bugger to get to) but once I had adjusted some free play into it and re-adjusted the cable I have a properly working and non-dragging clutch. Thanks.

FJSRiDER wrote

SUCCESS!! There was no play in the lever at all (and it was a right bugger to get to) but once I had adjusted some free play into it and re-adjusted the cable I have a properly working and non-dragging clutch. Thanks.

There you go. Hopefully it hasnt buggered up the little thrust bearing, if it starts squealing when you pull it in, thats what it will likely be. Hopefully it aint been like that too long.Kev

KFZ wrote

Hopefully it hasnt buggered up the little thrust bearing, if it starts squealing when you pull it in, thats what it will likely be. Hopefully it aint been like that too long.

Might have ben like that for 14 years! But the bike has only done 2000 miles

FJSRiDER wrote

Might have ben like that for 14 years! But the bike has only done 2000 miles

The gearbox and clutch wont be run in yet. Dont use Fully syntheitc, have you gor the service details for the box and drive?Kev

Guzzi 5 speed drives in 30 secondsThe clutch is a splined twin friction plate, single steel plate. Its has conventional springs (not a diaphram clutch.) comes it 2 flavors deep and shallow splined changed around 1988 to the better deep spline unit. The clutch is pretty solid and lasts well. but get a few problems ,youve found one. The otheri s worn splines, and plates falling apart. You need a special too to align if if tou take it apart.The 5 speed box has 3 shafts. The slip rings with the engagemment dogs on them are sperate for the gears, it has 3 selector forks and the drums are famous for being badily shimmed leave the box very long travel and prone to false Neutrals. Once shimmed right all this goes. The input shaft contains a sping loaded shockasborber and these can sometimes break. The return sping is prone to going and should be replaced every time its open. Post 88 bikes get poly cage bearings which are not as good as the earlier ones. Saying this the box is huge and well overbuilt. Its hold 750ml of EP80w/90 . Change theo il max of every 4-6K.The beval unit is expensive look after it. The plugs are prone to stripping. so dont use the level plug ever, often give a wrong level anyway. Box hold 250ml of ep802/90 and use a good squirt of molyslip too. The bevel gears are very expensive so i advise you to the oil often. every 4k max. Sometimes the big seal goes in the back which sprays the wheel with oil. Easilty fixes. If its old the trans wont be Fully syn friendly and will leak if you use it.Sorry its a bit of a horror story, these componats really are reliable, i just dont see them when they work.Kev

The splines in the shaft should be kept well greased, (there is no oil in the shaft unlike BMW). I Like to strip the drive every winter and regrease the splines and give the UJ a soak in gear oil to keep the seals soft.

Ta for the above advice Kev.Any idea how difficult changing the bevel box ratio is? I have 9:33 (Convert/Spada) apparently and the 7:33 (le Mans ratio) is too low but the 'Goldilocks' drive (8:33 - from the later California, and Daytona/1100 Sport) is ideal for the bike - remember I'm running a 65hp 850cc longitudinal four not a Guzzi motor....This ratio is available from Motomecca for £228.64 for a 8x33 Crown Wheel Pinion - which I assume is all that needs to be altered?Alternately does anyone know Guzzi gearbox ratios? First and second are quite (clutch slippingly) high with a Reliant motor.... ...Hopeless away from the traffic lights. SoI'm kinda looking for a wider ratio box!

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