Gpz500s is a rattly engine normal

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Gpz500s is a rattly engine normal

I've had this gpz500 for a couple of months, I think it's due a tappet adjustment as it has a bit of ticking from the top end but on tickover there's a lower pitched rattle.

It's a 1995 N 43,000 miles. newer model with 17" wheels and rear disc so it shouldn't be the shedding magnets model.

It goes OK, ticks over at 1100rpm, no smoke.

It could do with a service though I just changed the oil and filter which did quieten it down a bit.

I've never heard another one running so was wondering if twins are usually like this or should I carry a phone and an AA card at all times

Mine sounds the same. Same year, slightly less mileage.I'd like to do something to quieten it down a bit, particulalry at idle, but I'm not sure where to start. I've done the oil+filter and plugs, but that hasn't made a difference (not that I expected it to!)

Rattley is such a loose term dont you think? What you would call rattley and what another man would is probably completly different. Compared to a honda VFR yes there quite rattley. Compared to a 250K miles up Guzzi no there not. Quite a lot of chains in the engine and these can thrash about.Anyway this is no excuse not to do the tappits. ITs very easy on a GPZ, theough you wuill need to drain some of the coolant. If you want i can write it up for you. But only if you promise to do the job.

I pwomise!Seriously, I looked in the Haynes manual, and it looks a bit tricky, but if you can clear it up, I'll do it!

KFZ wrote

Anyway this is no excuse not to do the tappits. ITs very easy on a GPZ, theough you will need to drain some of the coolant.

Luke wrote

I pwomise!Seriously, I looked in the Haynes manual, and it looks a bit tricky, but if you can clear it up, I'll do it!

Guess what Mr Haynes does NOT mention?And I have heard of people flooding the engine with coolant because they've followed the manual.

HiThey are not quiet engines. Cam chains can be noisy as can the primary drive chains. From memory there is no tensioner on the primary drive chain.All the bestKeith

I find 180 twins always sound a bit rough and uneven. Prob cos they are. Do the tappits, adjust the chain and balance the carbs i reckon it will quieten off a bit.Kev

Carb balancing? Special equipment required?

KFZ wrote

Anyway this is no excuse not to do the tappits. ITs very easy on a GPZ, theough you wuill need to drain some of the coolant. If you want i can write it up for you. But only if you promise to do the job.

I really appreciate the offer but my mechanical experience is at it's limit changing the oil, I'm trying to persuade a guy at work to have a look at it but he keeps putting it off.I just filled it up with optimax and it runs a bit better for some reason so it may be in need of a good service and a tuneup.I'm not keen on taking it to a dealer because A/ they'll probably give me a bill that'll write off the bike.B/ i'm not sure they'll actually do the work after reading about some of the dealer tales on here.

Dazzer,Im in Warrington. Phone me. I will book you in. Lets have alook at this bike.Luke,Yes you need a balancer. ive written up your valve adjustment in lenght but its on my laptop wich is in work. I will post it up monday. Rear suspension rebuild instrusction for thel iuttle GPZ on my page.

KZF, cheers mate, look forward to that tomorrow (gutted for you working weekends though )Give me summat else to do over the weekend!

Luke wrote

KZF, cheers mate, look forward to that tomorrow (gutted for you working weekends though )Give me summat else to do over the weekend!

No monday yer numpt. its Friday today!I wuill post it up Monday, i your close to me then I can take you thru it first hand. Have a read and see what you think.

KFZ wrote

No monday yer numpt. its Friday today!I wuill post it up Monday, i your close to me then I can take you thru it first hand. Have a read and see what you think.

Kev,Are you going to post it up here? Cos I'd be interested as well. I'm overdue doing mine.Reading Mr Haynes keeps putting me off when it says you need the 'special kawasaki tool' to adjust the tappets. Bit different from the ring spanner and screwdriver I used for my old Escorts.

Dingbat wrote

Kev,Are you going to post it up here? Cos I'd be interested as well. I'm overdue doing mine.Reading Mr Haynes keeps putting me off when it says you need the 'special kawasaki tool' to adjust the tappets. Bit different from the ring spanner and screwdriver I used for my old Escorts.

Yes I'll post it up first thing Monday. you dont need any special tools 'cept maybe a feeler gauge with 0.15 and 0.2mm blades.Its only a little little word doc, nothing flash. I have a few Gpz motors lying about so i can do a few photos if you get realy stuck, but as bikes go, its pretty straight forward.

Come on then.... where is it?

sorry here.

GPZ500 SERVICE - VALVE ADJUSTMENTDISCLAIMER: Application of the procedures described herein is at your own risk. I have submitted this information in good faith, without charge but I will not be held responsible for any injury, damage or loss whosoever caused resulting from your use of these procedures or Information. This infomation is not intended to replace your repair manuals, your common sense, or your responsibility for your choices and actions. TOOLS REQ- 1 LITRE OF GYLCOL BASED COOLANTFUNNEL/MEASURING JUGLARGE BOWLSMALL SOCKET SET (INC 8MM, 10MM, 14MM AND EXTENSION BAR) . FEELER GAUGES NEEDLE NOSE PLIERSIMPACT SCREW DRIVERPHILIPS SCREWDRIVERMOLE GRIPS12MM PLUG SPANNERWD40ROCKER COVER COOLANT PIPES O-RINGS (2 OFF)GREASESPECSINLET VALVE CLEARANCE 0.13MM - 0.18MMEXHAUST VALVE CLEARANCE 0.18MM – 0.23MMROCKER COVER BOLTS 1NMDISASSEMBLY-ENGINE MUST BE COLD SO LEAVE OVERNIGHT. POP THE BIKE ON THE CENTRE STAND.REMOVE THE PETROL TANK BY REMOVINING THE SEAT AND UNDOING THE 12MM BOLT AT THE BACK OF THE TANK. LIFT THE TANK AND PULL OFF THE PETROL PIPES. DON’T LOOSE THE RUBBER BUNGS OFF THE FRONT. IF THEY KEEP FALLING OFF DAP SOME GREASE ON THE BACK OF THEM.UNDO THE HOSE CLIP AT THE BOTTOM OF THE RADIATOR AND PULL OFF THE RUBBER HOSE. DRAIN THE COOLANT INTO A LARGE BOWL. DON’T LOOSE THE HOSE CLIP. ONCE THE COOLANT IS DRAINED REPLACE THE PIPE AND FASTEN THE CLIP BACK UP.THERE ARE 2 COOLANT HOSES DISAPEARING INTO THE ROCKER COVER. UNDO THE CLAMPS AND PULL OFF THE HOSES. TUCK THE HOSES FORWARD OUT OF THE WAY SO THEY CAN’T DRIP ANY WATER INTO THE ENGINE. PULL OFF THE CARB COOLANT FEED PIPE OFF THE LH PIPE.WITH THE IMPACT DRIVER UNDO THE 2 PHILIPS HEAD SCREWS THAT LOCATE THE COOLANT PIPES. USING THE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS WAGGLES THE PIPES ABOUT AND REMOVE THEM BY PULLING UPWARDS. YOU MAY NEED PLENTY OF WD40. TRY ROTATING THEM UNTILL THERE FEEL LOOSE THEN PULL UPWARDS TILLTHE PIPES COME FREE. BE PATIENT, TRY NOT TO DISTORT THE PIPES TO MUCH.DISCONNECT THE PLUG LEADS FROM THE PLUGS. REMOVE THE LH COIL BUT DON’T DISCONNECT THE WIRE. LEAVE IT DANGLING OVER THE FRAME TUBE IN A MANNER LIKEY TO BREAK THE WIRES INSTEAD.REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS.REMOVE THE 6 10MM BOLTS THAT LOCATE THE ROCKER COVER TO THE HEAD, AND REMOVE THE COVER. IT’S A TIGHT FIT IN THE FRAME TUBES BUT YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO WORK IT OUT.REMOVE THE 2 OIL FEED PIPES THAT LOCATE IN THE DOWLS IN THE HEAD. THERE FASTENED WITH 2 8MM BOLTS. JUSAT UNDO THE BOLTS AND PULL THE PIPES FREE OF THE LOCATION. PUT THEM SOMEWHERE SAFE.PUT THE BIKE IN SECOND GEAR.INSPECTION AND VALVE ADJUST-STARTING WITH THE INLET VALVES YOU CAN SEE THAT THE TWIN VALVES ARE OPERATED BY A SINLGE ‘Y’ SHAPED ROCKER. I FIND THE BEST WAY TO MEASURE EACH VALVE CLEARANCE IS RIGHT UNDER THE VALVE ADJUSTER SCREW. PLEASE DON’T MEASURE BETWEEN THE CAM AND THE ROCKER, AS THE LIGHT SPRING WILL GIVE A WRONG READING.TURN THE BACK WHEEL UNTILL THE CAM IS POINT DIRECTIONALLY OPPOSITIVE FROM THE ROCKER, THAT IS THAT ITS POINT 30’ BACKWARDS FROM THE VERTICAL. GET HOLD OF THE ROCKER AND FEEL FOR ANY FREE PLAY, THERE SHOULD BE A LITTLE MOVEMENT IN THE ROCKER. THE IDEA OF THIS EXERCISE IS TO MAKE THAT GAP BACK TO ITS CORRECT VALUE.BEST PLAN OFF ATTACK IS TO START ON NO.1a INLET VALVE AND DO ALL THE INLETS (THEN 1b, 2a, 2b, etc etc) THEN DO ALL THE EXHAUSTS. USING THE 0.15MM FEELER CHECK THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE ADJUSTER AND THE VALVE. THE CLEARANCE IS QUITE A WIDE TOLERANCE SO IF THE FEELER IS TIGHT OR LOOSE THEN THAT’S STILL A PASS. IF THE FEELER IS UNABLE TO FIT IN OR IS VERY LOOSE THEN LOOSEN OFF THE LOCKNUT ON THE ROCKER AND WITH THE FEELER IN PLACE USE THE SMALL PLIERS TO ADJUST THE SMALL SQUARE ON THE TOP OF THE ADJUSTER TILL IT JUST CLAMPS THE GAUGE.THEN TIGHTEN THE LOCKNUT. YOU MAY WELL FIND THAT TIGHTENING THE LOCKNUT HAS CLAMPED THE FEELER TO TIGHT, IN WHICH CASE JUST LOOSEN OFF THE NUT AGAIN AND TURN THE ADJUSTER BACK A LITTLE AND REITIGHTEN. CHECK AGAIN. THE FEELER SHOULD BE A NICE SLIDING FIT IN THE GAP. IF ITS JERKY AND NOT SMOOTH THEN YOU HAVE IT TOO TIGHT. DO THE NEXT VALVE ON NO.1 CYLINDER. REPEAT THE ABOVE FOR THE REMAINING INLET VALVES ON . MAKE SURE YOU TURN THE BACK WHEEL SO THAT THE CAM FOR THE VALVE YOU ARE ADJUSTING IS POINTING AWAY FROM THE ROCKER AND THE BASE CIRCLE OF THE CAM IS RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROCKER FOLLOWER PAD.REPEAT FOR THE ALL THE EXHUAST VALVE NOTING THE BIGGER CLEARANCE OF THE 0.20MM FEELER GAUGE FOR THE EXHAUST CLEARANCE. MAKE SURE THE CAM IS POINT AWAY FRO MTHE ROCKER SO IN THIS CASE 30’ AFTER THE VERTICAL POINTING FORWARD.ONCE ALL THE VALES HAVE BEEN DONE JUST GIVE IT A ONCE OVER AND RECHECK ALL THE GAPS. ITS VITAL THAT THE VALVES ARE NOT OVER TIGHT AS YOU WILL RISK ENGINE DAMAGE. I LIKE TO ERR ON THE SIDE OF TOO WIDE A GAP SO FOR THE INLETS IF YOU USE THER 0.15MM FEELER AND FOR THE EXHASUT YOU USE THE 0.20MM FEELER THEN THIS WILL ENSURE YOU ARE AT THE WIDER END OF THE TOLERANCE.ASSEMBLY-REPLACE THE OIL FEED LINES MAKING SURE THE ENDS ARE WELL LOCATED INTO THEIR RESPECTIVE LOCATION DOWELS.REPLACE THE ROCKER COVER (IF THE RUBBER GASKET KEEPS FALLING OFF USE A DAB OF GREASE IN THE ROCKER COVER SLOT TO HOLD THE SEAL SECURE. REFIT THE 6 BOLTS HOLDING THE COVER DOWN, A BAD OF GREASE ON THE THREADS IS WISE.REPLACE THE COIL. INSPECT THE PLUGS AND IF NOT OVER WORN THEN GIVE EM A CLEAN WITH THE WIRE BRUSH AND WD AND WITH A DAB OF GREASE ON THE THREADS REPLACE THE PLUGS. CONNECT THE HT LEADS UP.FIT THE NEW ORINGS ONTO THE COOLANT PIPES AND PUSH THE PIPES BACK INTO THE HEAD. I LIKE TO GIVE THE PIPES A GOOD WIPE WITH COPPER GREASE IN A VAIN ATTEMPT TO STOP THEM CORRODING IN. REPLACE THE RUBBER HOSES AND TIGHTEN THE HOSE CLAMPS.TIP: WHILE THE COOLANT IS DRAINED ITS WISE TO CLEAN OUT THE LITTLE FILTER. NEXT TO THE CARBS. A LITTLE BULB THAT CONTAINS A LITTLE GAUSZE FILTER. PULL THE BULB OPEN AND REMOVE THE FILTER. CHECK ITS CLEAR AND GIVE IT A BLAST WITH THE WD40.REFIT THE TANK (DON’T FORGET THE 2 PETROL PIPES. TIGHTEN UP THE BOLT.REMOVE THE COOLANT FILLER CAP AND FILL WITH 50/50 MIX OF COOLANT AND TAP WATER. FILL THE COOLANT TILL YOU CAN SEE THE COOLANT IN THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING.PUT THE BIKE BACK IN NEUTRAL AND START THE ENGINE. WHEN ALL THE AIR HAS LEFT THE COOLANT TOP UP AS NEEDED AND DROP A LITTLE INTO THE HEADER TANK IF THAT’S A LITTLE LOW TOO. I TEND TO FILL TO ONLY THEL OW MARK. REPLACE THE RADIATOR CAP.OFF YOU GO.

Gpz tappets

Cheers bud... i'll be doing mine next week hopefully

Top man!I shall read, digest, attempt, and bodge....

KFZ wrote

DISCONNECT THE PLUG LEADS FROM THE PLUGS. REMOVE THE LH COIL BUT DON’T DISCONNECT THE WIRE. LEAVE IT DANGLING OVER THE FRAME TUBE IN A MANNER LIKEY TO BREAK THE WIRES INSTEAD.

Voice of experience? Cheers, Kev, that does make it look a lot easier than what Haynes says.Right, all I need to get are the O rings and a metric feeler gauge (mine are all imperial - shows my age!)

Thinking about this again , instead of putting the bike in gear and using the back wheel to turn the engine over you can undo the plastic plug on the geny end of the crank with a bif screwdiver and use a 14mm socket to turn it over. Doesnt really matter which way it wont undo It really isnt rocket science as long as you take your time and double check everything anyone with a brain bigger than sprout should be able to handle it. Worst bit is getting them damn pipes out there usually a bit seized in. Not very clever engineering having steel pipes there.Haver you got an impact driver to get the screws out?

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