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Exhaust studs

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Exhaust studs

Hi all, removed the downpipes on my CBR last night (2001 600cc F model) and managed to remove all but two of the studs from the head.

One of the remaining studs snapped off about 5mm out from the head whilst the nut on the other unscrewed before the stud did. Is it worth replacing the 'ok' stud or can it be reused? Ideally I'd like to remove it so I can copper grease it etc, however sod's law dictates that this one will also snap off doubling my problem.

I have a few things to try to remove the snapped stud (heat, plusgas, hammer, molegrips, patience, swearing and possibly filing flats/slots for spanners and screwdrivers in the stud). I do not have access to a MIG to weld a nut on and I don't really have any way of moving my whole bike to a garage if things go tits up. I also don't trust myself to drill straight enough to drill the stud out.

If the shite hits the fan, how hard is it to remove the engine and take that down an engineering place to have it drilled and helicoiled??

Personally id heat up the outside of the decent stud(not the actual stud)(around the stud to expand the metal)and put two nuts on the end of it tightened against each other, so you can unbolt the stud... Go careful with it....
The other stud you'd really need to find some friend or aquiantense who has a welder(mig, or arc would be easier) and weld the nut on the end.. Think you'd find the heat from the welder would loosen the stud...

Best a luck i hate studs there a real pain in the ***..!!??!!??

Dealt with this problem a few times.  One thing I'd say is no matter what, DON'T try stud extractors (easy-outs).  Had one snap while trying to remove a broken exhaust stud in my Thundercat.If you need to take it in to get worked on (I had an engineering company drill out the stud with embedded bits of stud extractor then helicoil it for me for about £20), you just need to remove the cylinder head, not the entire engine.  This is still a big enough job, involving removing the cam shafts too but I used it as a good opportunity to do the valve clearances while I was in there when I put it all back together. Had a stud snap on the XJ the other year and after my experience with the thundercat, just drilled it out myself and rethreaded with a helicoil, all with the engine still in the frame.  Worked fine for me.  I marked the maximum depth for the drill bit with some tape by inserting it into one of the other stud holes first - didn't want to go all the way through!  This is the route I'd go down if it happened again to me.Pete.

I've got a CB600 Hornet with 3! studs stuck in it. Tried local heat to the stud (not red not) and beeswax (read this on another forum) and...

...it didn't work.

The 7mm stud is too small for the chuck style adaptor I've got so just ordered a cam style extractor, see if that works.

Considering Migging a bolt to the ends of them, got about 15mm exposed so may have some luck here.

Very frustrating. 30 minute new exhaust gasket job has mean a week off the bike.

Go with the MiG - I've never known it fail. You'll need to use an angle grinder (or a lot of elbow grease with a rough file) to get the studs REALLY shiny clean so you get lots of heat transfer and a nice weld. Usually I  give a nut a similar treatment and weld that to the stud. Then put a socket on the nut and hey presto. I guess it depends on your welding, but I've never known it fail...

Thanks for the reassurance.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Success! Took me a while to get hold of a welder, but worked a treat. I used some oversized nuts, M10 I think they were, which I countersunk slightly to get a bevel to increase the depth of the weld. I ground the ends of the studs as per tappys recommendations using a dremel to a shiny finish and slight taper (again to increase the depth of the weld).
Access was difficult given the front wheel and mudguard, but I got a decent amount of weld on there.
Such a relief! I was luck that the there was plenty of stud left to work with. Good luck to anyone with a similar problem.
Thanks tappy for some good advice.

Glad to be of help. It wasn't a lot of fun doing the ones on my SV - lying upside down beneath the front cylinder, eating grinding dust. Nommm.

I'm new and I'm interested in

I'm new and I'm interested in this topic. Thank you!

My solution

OK, you're sorted, good. But I didn't see anyone suggesting the use of a small hammer, WD40, and patience.
Keep wetting around the join and tap lightly repeatedly on the end. Keep wetting, and keep tapping. Not hard enough to damage the end. The gentle shocks through the bolt slowly break the join, and the WD soaks in. Give it t least 15 minutes of this. It'll turn out with a pair of pliers. Worked for me.

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