Hello again to everyone!
Right then it has come to that time where my bike has let me down, me and the wife went out earlier on for a ride to Clacton and on the way back the bike started spluttering, initially i thought it was the petrol so switched to reserve which made no difference. I couldnt give it more than a quarter throttle without it spluttering and juddering so as we werent far from home i thought i would try to nurse it home and about a mile away from my front door it conked out on a round about.
All the instrument lights remained on but the bike would not turn over again to get the bike started, i imagine it is something electrical but not sure, when i try to start the bike with the lights off you can hear a click everytime i press the button and every now and then it will try to turn over but very weakly.
The bike will bump start and seems to ride fine but once switched off again it will not start on the button, Please help!
Thanks you for reading!
Got it started today using the car to jump it, it runs perfect with the lights off but as soon as you pull the brake or put the lights on it cuts out. so after having a look on google im thinking it will need a new battery and stator, does that so right to anyone?
Everything else seems fine such as main fuse and all connections but i dont have a voltmeter to test anything.
You need to do some proper testing with a decent multi-meter - if you just start replacing batteries, stators and reg/reg you'll cost yourself £150. A cheapy multi-meter will tell you most of what you need to know for £5.
You need to measure unloaded battery voltage (lights etc off) with the engine off.
Loaded battery voltage with the engine off (i.e. lights on)
Unloaded battery voltage (lights etc off) with the engine running at idle, 2500rpm, 5000rpm and maybe 7500rpm.
Loaded battery voltage (lights etc on) at the same engine speeds (given the symptoms it probably won't manage that).
Depending on the results you then need to disconnect the reg/rec and measure the resistance of the 3 stator windings, and also measure their unloaded AC voltage output at several engine rpms.
It won't take long, but could save you a chunk of that £150.
Cheers tappy, it was just a worn out battery not holding any charge so £30 and its sorted, plus 18 for the multimeter!
Good stuff Burd, but just to check - how did you diagnose that? Did you check the charging output etc or just try a new battery? If that latter, then a duff charging system might've been the culprit and kill the new battery too.
Well i took your advice and bought a multimeter and got a new battery as i knew the old one was shagged. Once fitted i did the charging system out put test which you were talking about by connecting the multimeter to the battery terminals with the bike off and the reading was just under 13v, then did it with the bike running and depending on how much throttle i gave it the reading was between 13v to high 14v's
I didnt check the regulator because of the results i got, i hope thats right but if there is anything else that i need to check the bike is still stripped down for now.
Yeah - sounds fairly healthy then. Hopefully that'll be an end to it
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