Oil?

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AWM
20/11/2002 at 17:14
I`ve had a couple of conflicting bits of advice
regarding oil,soI thought I`d see what you
guys reckon.
Any idea what type and grade of oil I should
be using in a KTM 620SX(kick start only comp engine),
the bike is only used on the road.

Cheers for any help you can give.

AWM
20/11/2002 at 17:54
I just go with what Brackens say and what was in the bike originally.

15/40 Rock Oil (semi synthetic) changed approx every 600 miles



Crashometer 2003:
Crashometer 2004:
20/11/2002 at 18:03
AWM wrote

I`ve had a couple of conflicting bits of advice regarding oil,soI thought I`d see what you guys reckon.

Any idea what type and grade of oil I should be using in a KTM 620SX(kick start only comp engine), the bike is only used on the road.

Cheers for any help you can give.

AWM


I use Castrol R4 fully synthetic in my 625, 1.4 Litres, so no reason why u should use anything different, I change the oil every 3 - 500 miles.

HTH

Now Motardless
20/11/2002 at 18:15
Oh 3 Spoke! Where are you mate?

Crashometer 2003:

I've got a little black book with me poems in it!
20/11/2002 at 21:21
The XR gets Halfords mineral 10/40 for motorcycles every 600 miles. Done 7000+ miles now, thrashed the pants off it, boiled it dry negotiating uphill bogs from hell and generally been unsympathetic. I put fully synth in it and it seized a clutch bush and blew a crank seal. Go figure
20/11/2002 at 22:15
do a search for oil.3 spoke has covered this comprehensivley.
20/11/2002 at 22:57
believe it or not (honest, no pun whatsoever) i used
Mole Valley Agricultural Mineral Oil 10/40, in my CCM, thrashed the arse of it, tkday an all,
never missed a beat. bin usin it in everything for 15 yrs or so.



ITS THE OIL "THEY" DONT WANT YOU TO KNOW ABOUT


not the VOR though, honest

The "Lydd Backmarker"
Photo by GLM
# 1 T.A.R.T.
Trying and REALLY TRYING)
20/11/2002 at 23:04
Dunner, how much is it?
20/11/2002 at 23:21
cost of oil is £22.70 ish + vat for 5 gall.

blended locally at Bridgewater, Somerset.

its suitable for wet brake systems. hydraulics & gearboxes
if your interested, i`ll go out to garage & get the spec. of the
lable

The "Lydd Backmarker"
Photo by GLM
# 1 T.A.R.T.
Trying and REALLY TRYING)
20/11/2002 at 23:40
Is it a local oil for local people?
20/11/2002 at 23:52
its an agricutural shop run by farmers for farmers, tools, clothes,
fencing, bagged animal foods, batterys (£40 for heavy duty
down town £70 +) everything !
they cover Somerset & Devon. big buying power
dont you have similiar up your ways ?

Halfords ? naaa they only farm yer wallets

The "Lydd Backmarker"
Photo by GLM
# 1 T.A.R.T.
Trying and REALLY TRYING)
21/11/2002 at 00:08
bollox
just spent the last 15 mins typing out a reply and bloody deleted it - can't be arsed to do it again now so I'll post something in the morning - including some fun tips for anyone going to the bike show

Owner of the most immaculate motorcycles since 1979 ....
 

21/11/2002 at 00:21
know the feeling, popups normally destroy my masterpieces

The "Lydd Backmarker"
Photo by GLM
# 1 T.A.R.T.
Trying and REALLY TRYING)
21/11/2002 at 09:38
Right -
Morning all, Oil:
Right - KTM - Spec is for an SG 10W40 so most mineral bike oils will meet this spec, however, KTM do recommend using a fully synthetic, such as Castrol R4 racingbike ( KTM recommend a Shell alternative Advance Ultra 4 ) maybe because of the small sump size, but more than likely because KTM have a contract with Shell ( cynical... me ? )

To recap -
Honda recommend SF/SG 10W40 and is essential under warranty
Kawasaki recommend SF/SG 10W40, although 10W50, 20W50 is also acceptable ( what you like there then ! )
Yamaha - SE 10W40, again other oil grades are acceptable for different ambient temperatures.
Suzuki - SF/SG 10W40, but seems that this is the thinnest recommendation.

Only manufacturer I know of who insists on Semi / Fully syn are Triumph, Cagiva ( in the W12 and W16 ) CCM recommend Mobil 1 Racing 4T ( this is a 15W50 ) or fully or part synthetic oils 15W50 or 20W50.... That blows your Universal Tractor oil out of the water

Regarding this stuff (UTTO), not sure what the anti sqwawk additive for the wet brakes will have on your clutch, also, to meet the spec for a transmission and hydraulic oil, these tend to be normally around 10W30, and even if your's is a 10W40, it's still below the viscosoty that CCM recommend. Over a long period, the lubrication provided will be less so wear will be more. Also bear in mind that the reason some of the "back street" blenders can knock out oil cheaper is that they use cheaper quality base oils.

At the end of the day - oil is cheap, engine components are not.

What do you do, use the proper oil and pay a few quid more, or use a cheaper oil and save a few quid, but pay miore in the long term when your engine fails ?

I'm off to the bike show tomorrow ( anyone else ? ) and I'll be looking for some fun. If you see one of those stand selling "wonder additive", wait until they have a few punters and ask these questions :

What is your additive composed of and what will it do to the balanced package of additives in the oil?

Which Major oil manufacturer endorses, or actually recommends the use of their product ?

Ask them if ANYONE recommends the use of their product?

If they have one of those gadgets that seizes a bearing, but doesn't when the add their wonder additive - ask them " isn't that what EP additive is supposed to do ?

Look to see if it says "shake contents before adding" if it does, then it's more than likely a suspension, ask them what happens when this gets to the filter ( the filter takes it out and it blocks the filter ?? )

I'm sure you can think of others....


Owner of the most immaculate motorcycles since 1979 ....
 

21/11/2002 at 09:51
You da man
Quick question, what do SF, SE, SG stand for, and what do the nyumbers relate to in the 10W40 bit? (for that matter whats the W on the middle for?)
21/11/2002 at 11:46
Jkulin wrote



I use Castrol R4 fully synthetic in my 625, 1.4 Litres, so no reason why u should sue anything different, I should the oil every 3 - 500 miles.

HTH



I am not sure I got it: Do you change oil every 3-500 miles, or do you check oil level at every 3-500 miles?
Thanks
Giuseppe
2002 640 supermoto+fcr41+no airbox lid+xracing exhaust+motul 15w50 fully synthethic every 3000 miles.
21/11/2002 at 11:53
jop1 wrote




I am not sure I got it: Do you change oil every 3-500 miles, or do you check oil level at every 3-500 miles?
Thanks
Giuseppe
2002 640 supermoto+fcr41+no airbox lid+xracing exhaust+motul 15w50 fully synthethic every 3000 miles.


I change the oil every 3-500 miles

Now Motardless
21/11/2002 at 12:04
Jkulin wrote



I change the oil every 3-500 miles


May I ask why. My user manual says every 5000 Km. Do you race it only ? I ride it on street whith some track day (no more than 250 Km I'd say.

Giuseppe
21/11/2002 at 12:21
ConcreteCows wrote

You da man
Quick question, what do SF, SE, SG stand for, and what do the nyumbers relate to in the 10W40 bit? (for that matter whats the W on the middle for?)



Basically, the SE, SAF etc - this is the API specification ( American Petroleum Institute ) Car oils currently are now up to SL, so SG is pretty basic in terms of anti oxidation and anti wear properties
S range refers to petrol engines, Diesel engines have a C spec ( ie CC, CD, CF )
If you look on the oil can it will have an API spec - as long as its SG or above (SH, SJ, ... ) then you should be ok - That's Motorbike oil, not car oil ( don't get me started )

The numbers - ok, This is the SAE grade of the oil ( Society of Automotive Engineers ) This is a measurement of the oils viscosity ( thickness ) The first number relates to the oils low temperature cranking viscosity and the W denotes suitability for winter or cold weather use. The second number is the viscosity of the oil at engine working temperature, and is probably more important because this influences the oil film thickness between the components being lubricated.

there you go... clear as mud

Owner of the most immaculate motorcycles since 1979 ....
 

21/11/2002 at 12:57
3Spoke,
Can you enlighten us on the subject of using Diesel oil instead of normal oil in bikes, in particular Shell Rotella, which we don't get here, or Mobil Delvac !?

Apparently, the additive package for these oils are supposed to be very beneficial for bike engines !?

I did ask this once before but didn't get a reply...
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