Running In

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Running In

Just out of interest what would you peeps suggest when running in a new bike.

Run it in as the manual suggestes

or

Run it in rougher.

What are you reasons for your choice, hopefully will have a new bike in a couple of weeks, just want to know the best procedure.

NinjaFrog.

No steady engine speeds for extended periods, no full throttle, stop/starts is good, nailing it to the red line is bad, keep it in the region of half the rev range for the first 500 miles or so, then build up the revs slowly (ie another 1000rpm for eack 100 miles), then by around 1,000 miles she'll be ready for some action That's wot i did anyway

I normally give it a blast every 100 miles just to clean it out but not for long about two miles max

Russ wrote

That's wot i did anyway

Then you'll have a slower bike now than you could have had.Rev the tits off it from day 1 :smoke:

smooth running in no, but don't redline it.in fact the other month bike did a great running in feature. Basically just ride it as normal but change that oil at around 400 to 500 miles tops. Imagine just running bike gentle for 600 miles to a top rev of say 9k on a bike with 14k red line. You then get the service and go out to the fast to 13k etc, thats gonna be worse than riding normal from new. Hed or X81 are yer real experts on this cos both know their stuff but basically ride normalish, dont be lazy and keep steady revs in a set gear, alter the gear, alter the revs but dont pussy foot to the "running in 4k rpm" type limits.running smooth and at constant reves could end up polishing off valves and the like.actually one thing guy from bike said was not to use fully synthetic oil until after the first service so make sure if thats the standard oil of bike you get semi or summat, wrt to this tho i cant comment

silentmemory wrote

Rev the tits off it from day 1 :smoke:

I can't believe you would do this SM. I've read the different opinions from both sides on running in but I didn't get the impression that you would join the side of the rev it lots. You strike me as having far too much mechanical sympathy for that.

Ride it like you'd normally ride it. Labouring the engine is as bad as revving it hard. If you're not going to own the bike forever, thrashing it might give you more horsepower in the short-term but decrease the life of the engine - not your problem if you sell the bike after a couple of years

Quote

actually one thing guy from bike said was not to use fully synthetic oil until after the first service so make sure if thats the standard oil of bike you get semi or summat, wrt to this tho i cant comment

Dont use fully synth when running it in because its to slipery & the parts wont bed in properly & it can glaze the bores.

Thanks for the comments, I will take the advise and run it in as I would want to ride it, the general consensus seems to be to keep the bike running up and down the rev range instead of leaving it at certain revs for prolonged periods of time.Keep the advise coming

CatMan wrote

I can't believe you would do this SM. I've read the different opinions from both sides on running in but I didn't get the impression that you would join the side of the rev it lots. You strike me as having far too much mechanical sympathy for that.

Not my bike is it? :burp:I've yet to hear anyone buying a new bike with a mind to being mechanically sympathetic ask how best to run it in. The things come with a manual, written by the guys who designed the bike, the guys who should know what's best for it.But people read that using it hard from the start can make it faster, albeit at the price of a little oil, and post here looking for confirmation and affirmation. They're only going to have it for a maximum of three years anyway, the engine isn't going to blow up on them is it?Apologies to NinjaFrog if he's not the kind of owner I'm talking about, but I'm guessing his new bike will be a speed missile rather than a CG125 (makes Sign Of Holy Pushrods), and he's looking for speed rather than oil consumption.

silentmemory wrote

But people read that using it hard from the start can make it faster, albeit at the price of a little oil, and post here looking for confirmation and affirmation.

Indeed they are, and you are just the person to help confirm their route to power. I'm just at the start of running in the RSV and I have decided to go pretty much by the book but not worry if it happens to creep above the recommended 6000rpm on occasion. It's a good time to get to know the bike anyway since I am no riding god.I considered the thrash it option but my mechanical sympathy gene would not permit such behaviour.

200 miles steady and then nail it It is under warranty so who cares this is the way I run all my bikes in

SM,The bike I am looking at is the 1200 bandit, I'm looking to keep the bike for a number of years, at least three, the reason for asking the question is that I have heard on a number of occasions that the stuff written in the manual is not the best way to run in a bike, I just wanted to get peoples thoughts. I'm not concerned about the performance increase that comes with harder running in (thats what mods are for), in actual fact I am more concerned about keeping the engine in tip top condition as long as possible.

IMO, any engine requires the same running-in procedure; vary revs, don't strain the engine and if you open it up, make sure it's nice and warm.So drive it almost as you normally would - albeit minimising the extremes.Keep an eye on the oil, mind. And don't forget you're on new rubber

CatMan wrote

Indeed they are, and you are just the person to help confirm their route to power.

I was being jocular, you obviously noticed it was an out of character post, but if NF didn't then so what? IF he's the type of bloke who takes the advice of a bunch of internerds over that in his manual, then me getting all Responsible Parent on his ass isn't going to make much of a difference is it?FWIW, I ran my bike in as per the manual and would do so again, I'd much rather better economy and longevity than an extra couple of mph top end. I'll also not be buying a 3 year old sports bike with one owner from new, as I've a fair idea why it's being sold

I did mine as the manual suggested, below 5,000 rpm for the first six hundred then below 8,000 until 800 miles.You could also feel when the engine started to loosen up, so i used that as a gauge for when to give it some beans.BTW, i had it dynod at the weekend and it came out at 71.1 as standard which was one of the better results they have had for an unmodified SV.

Just gathering thoughts

silentmemory wrote

I was being jocular,

I know, I know. Maybe I should have liberaly applied some smilies to my posts so you would realise I was not attacking you.I'll also not be buying a 3 year old sports bike with one owner from new, as I've a fair idea why it's being sold I thought the reason to sell 3 year old sports bikes was fashion and had nothing to do with leaking oil You could buy mine in 3 years now you know how I will have run it in

Advice I've seen was to avoid 'lugging'.I understand that to mean running at low revs. Is that so, and what's the problem with doing it?

Originally dribbled by NinjaFrog I have heard on a number of occasions that the stuff written in the manual is not the best way to run in a bikeIt errs on the side of caution perhaps, and the sudden jump in allowable revs after the first service or (10,000 miles if you're on a ZX12R ) is silly, yes. The thing to do is stick within 1000rpm of the recommended rev limit for the first half of the running in schedule, and build up gradually (+1krpm/100 miles or so) for the second half of the schedule.Lots of rev and gear changes, don't labour the engine in too high a gear, and change your oil yourself half way to your first service.Ideally, fit a couple of magnets, or magnetic sump plug, to the underside of the engine for magnetic oil conditioning, keeping the swarf out of circulation.A real-world problem is that the 5-6krpm for the first few hundred miles is going to leave you as cage fodder, with arseholes swarming all over you at 70mph on many roads. Nice empty twisty roads with the occasional straights are perfect, but try finding them here inside the M25...I am more concerned about keeping the engine in tip top condition as long as possible. Don't wheelie it then. Oops, you bought a B12 didn't you?

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