pup project 1986 honda cb 125 super dream

photo restoration

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05/09/2010 at 20:16
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08/03/2011 at 10:49
could u help my i have a 125 superdream and only getting a spark for one off them changed coils leads plugs tryed cdi and now ant got a clue ur help would be great thanks gaz
15/08/2011 at 14:33

Wish I had a girlfriend as cool as you,

I stripped down my first CB125TD Engine to find that the valve rod had actually smashed through the piston head, and the gearbox had filled with swarf.

I'm just trying to find out why the revs on the next CB125 rise to infinity as soon as I touch 4000, and won't drop until I turn off the whole machine off.

wish me luck

how did yours go?

28/10/2011 at 18:11
any one no were i can get a tank for the cb tdc 125 please any help would be great
26/01/2012 at 01:24
can anyone help me find suspension bushes for the lower linkages on my cb125tdc?
27/01/2012 at 08:55
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18/03/2012 at 17:36
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18/03/2012 at 21:01
Once painted and cured, masking removed, and the casting YE A BLUDY GAIN, washed and thoroughly dried, (To make sure theres no dust or paint residues or ANYTHING inside... its time to try and put it to gether again.

Main seals go in first, in the lower groove. They are the thicker ones, and are square in section. Takes a bit of 'wiggling' but they do go in. I have an advantage here with little lady's fingers! Tip, wipe them with brake fluid first to lubricate them.

'Wiper' seals go in next, in the upper groove. These are the thinner rings and have a groove in the face. BOTH rings have to go in neatly without being twisted or kinked or anything.

Once the seals are in place and seated comfortably, then the pistons can be pushed in. Again they go in a lot easier if you dip the end in brake fluid to lube them first. You DO have to be careful to get them in square and not dislonge a seal as you push them in though. Case of being firm but fair! They will take a bit of pressure to go in, you cant tickle them, but get ham-fisted and you'll get them jammed and possibly pinch one of the new seals.

But once they are 'in' they should go all the way fairly easily.

Next the brake pads anti-rattle clip can be fitted.Given some coppa-slip to stop it squeeking ir rusting, and after coppa-slipping tha back of the brake pads they can be fitted too.
Edited: 18/03/2012 at 21:04
18/03/2012 at 21:08



Next come the pad-pins, which can again be coppa-slipped before pushing through the pads. These often rust in the holes in the caliper and the pads stopping the brake work properly & making changing the pads a pain. A we were reconditioning the caliper we used brand new pad pins, & my B/F had me 'ream' the holes for them in the caliper out with a drill before we started re-assembling it.



Next job is to re-assemble the float-pins. Note that the pads have been wedged part with a bit of card-board to stop them waggl;ing about until the caliper if fitted, and the hole for the brake pipe mashed off to stop crud getting in before its all put fully back together.


The float pins are a pain. B/F said there was a 'trick' to it, and then cocked it up! Theres two rubber grommits and a sleeve. Sleeve goes through the caliper body, rubber grommet goes on either end, clipping into a groove on the end of the sleeve, and another in the caliper body!
18/03/2012 at 21:09
The 'Trick' I think he eventually discovered is you put ONE gromet into the caliper body, then push the sleeve through from the other side, and push it FURTHER than the gromet, so you have an empty hole to put the other grommet into. THEN you can push the sleeve back and fiddle the grommets into the grooves on either end of the sleeve.
Its not easy. Especially if everything is all slippery with coppa-slip, because you dont want it rusting or siezing!

Gromet on the OTHER pin just clips over the lip of the hole on the caliper mount. Dead easy, BUT as B/F pointed out, DONT use TOO much coppa-slip of it'll all squrt out when you push the pin in, and or stop the pin floating properly.
In fact, you ought to be sparing with the coppa-slip in MOST places, as you dont want any getting on the brake pads or anything!
Finally, and I didn't get pictures of it, a new bleed nipple and nipple cover can be fitted, and the pad retaining plate screwed down over the pad-pins to hold them in place.
And EVERYTHING tightened up to the torque specifications in the Haynes manual.

OH.... Tip: WHEN you paint the caliper body, if you want it to look REALLY nice when its all 'done'...... dont forget to paint the pad retaining plate!
Might get round to doing the Master Cylinder next.
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