The 'Trick' I think he eventually discovered is you put ONE gromet into the caliper body, then push the sleeve through from the other side, and push it FURTHER than the gromet, so you have an empty hole to put the other grommet into. THEN you can push the sleeve back and fiddle the grommets into the grooves on either end of the sleeve.
Its not easy. Especially if everything is all slippery with coppa-slip, because you dont want it rusting or siezing!
Gromet on the OTHER pin just clips over the lip of the hole on the caliper mount. Dead easy, BUT as B/F pointed out, DONT use TOO much coppa-slip of it'll all squrt out when you push the pin in, and or stop the pin floating properly.
In fact, you ought to be sparing with the coppa-slip in MOST places, as you dont want any getting on the brake pads or anything!
Finally, and I didn't get pictures of it, a new bleed nipple and nipple cover can be fitted, and the pad retaining plate screwed down over the pad-pins to hold them in place.
And EVERYTHING tightened up to the torque specifications in the Haynes manual.
OH.... Tip: WHEN you paint the caliper body, if you want it to look REALLY nice when its all 'done'...... dont forget to paint the pad retaining plate!
Might get round to doing the Master Cylinder next.
