Visordown's Used Motorcycle Buying Tips

Our checklist guide gives you motorcycle buying advice and shows you what to look for when buying your next used motorcycle

Posted: 11 January 2013
by Visordown

When you go to view a used motorcycle that you're keen to buy, then you've already been through quite a few steps, as detailed in our motorcycle buying checklist. By using your head, you're more than likely to end up viewing a bike with a solid background and good history and not one that's £1000 cheaper than everything else, therefore eliminating the major pitfalls.

Don't be afraid to ask the owner questions. Most people will be truthful and if you let them talk to you, they'll often reveal plenty about the bike, including perhaps more than they might have wanted to.

So infront of you is a gleaming clean machine and you want it. Well follow these final steps and you'll ensure you're making a smart purchase and not buying into someone else's troubles.

1. BODYWORK

Poorly colour-matched panels can indicate crash damage. Immaculate fairings on an older bike may mean its been raced. In this example the RR stickers on the right hand side are slightly scuffed. Has the bike been dropped at a standstill, or worse. Has this moved any other parts out of line? Bear this in mind when going over the rest of the bike.

2. REAR MUDGUARD

Some bikes won't have one mounted on the swingarm as standard and can benefit from one to keep road-crap off the rear shock. This one has an aftermarket hugger fitted on the swingarm, which is a good thing. Has the standard numberplate hanger been cut down, bodged, or has an aftermarket one been fitted? This example has been cut down and the indicators have been replaced. A heavily cut-down standard rear mudguard may not take a standard size number plate – replacements can be expensive.

3. NON-STANDARD PARTS

Here we've got a Harris exhaust hanger. It's a nice touch and was probably fitted by the owner to convert the bike to a single-seat. That alone isn;t a bad thing, but it might hint at a non-standard exhaust system, which should make you enquire about other engine mods. Aftermarket rearsets, end cans, body panels etc. can also indicate possible crash damage, ask for the original parts.

4. WHEELS

Buckles or run-out mean possible crashes. Heavily scratched rims can be a sign of frequent tyre changes – common on race bikes

5. CHAIN & SPROCKETS

Worn chain and hooked sprockets indicate hard life. Dry and rusty chains mean neglect. A clean chain and fresh sprockets are one of the best hints that the bike's been well looked after. A chain dragging on the floor should make you wonder what other maintenance hasn't been carried out.

6. ENGINE & CHASSIS NUMBERS

Must, absolutely must, match those in logbook.

7. POLISHED FRAMES AND SWINGARMS

Indicate possible crash damage. Carbon frame guards too – often fitted after the crash, not before. Even if it's a legit job, they don't add value, no matter how many hours the owner claims to have put into his masterpiece.

8. BARS, BAR ENDS & LEVERS

Look for bent bars, scuffed bar ends and levers as indication of a crash. Brand new levers are the alternative giveaway. Ideally, the bike will run a stock throttle, not a quick-action jobbie, standard bar-ends and standard levers.

9. KEYS

Does it have both sets of keys and the spare. Does the same key fit the ignition, the tank and the seat? If not its an indication that the bike may be stolen-recovered. Be wary.

10. SPEEDO

Km/h speedo will indicate a foreign import.

11. STEERING HEAD BEARINGS & LOCKSTOPS

Check the steering head bearings – the handlebars should turn from lock to lock smoothly with just a hint of stiction. Front end crashes and/or too many wheelies can destroy them. Welded steering lock-stops are a sign of a heavy crash. Definitely a bike to avoid.

12. HEADLIGHT

Does it dip to the left? If not, its an import. Look out for cracks and chips too as headlights are expensive to replace.

13. BRAKE DISCS

Check for excessive wear and grooves and check that they match. There are plenty of aftermarket replacement discs available – but knock the cost off the asking price.

14. TYRES

A considerate owner will have fitted a matched pair, hopefully with plenty of miles still left in them. Wear pattern will tell you the type of rider he/she is. Squared off – plenty of motorway and commuting work. Frazzled edges – trackday fiend. The tyres are a good window into the way the owner rides their bike, so do a little bit of background on what's available.

15. BRAKE PADS

Badly worn pads indicate neglect. This will have also exposed the brake pistons to a lot of debris so check for  possible fluid leakage meaning a costly refurb. Corroded caliper bolts and a dirty caliper are clear signs they've not been recently fettled.

16. ENGINE

Start from cold to see how healthy the battery and starter are. Then check for any knocks or rattles, oil or coolant leaks. Check the temperature gauge works. Have the sump and filler plugs been drilled? Or alternatively do they look suspiciously new? Indicates possible race use. If you’re paying top dollar look for a service manual and a full set of dealer stamps and receipts. Check all the MOTs tally-up with the service history.



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Discuss this story

For me it starts on the phone talking to the owner. If your gut instinct tells you he or she is lying then back out. Could be a wasted journey.
I would try and carry out mot checks which cover some of what you have said. Such as the wheels and cycle parts. Spin one wheel at a time Holding the bike on its sidestand. Ideally with a paddock stand. Check head racers, if there is any play in the wheels. Visually inspect all the bike looking for damage or even new that looks out of place. Check lights and operation of brakes. Are they sticking. Check tyres. Is the bike correct for the year, has it the right panels for that model.
Its easier if you know someone who is a mechanic and can take them along. Save some money in repairs in the long time.
vinnychoff

Posted: 13/01/2012 at 10:15

Check the toolkit is there (got caught on that one), lights and indicators, heated grips (GCOTO too), look for anything shiny sticking in the tyre, original parts if extras fitted (like grab rail if it has a special rack GCOTO £180 ouch), suspension -- especially rear shock (bounce it up and down, check there's still adjustment), check the chain adjustment to make sure there's some left, look at the sprockets to see if they've turned into shark's teeth, allow £500 for things you've missed.

Posted: 16/01/2012 at 19:09

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