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Advanced Motorcycle Riding Course: Feel

Advanced motorbike riding techniques and tips from Niall Mackenzie's rider clinic.

Posted: 30 October 2008
by Ben Cope

For all of us, riding bikes is a seat of the pants skill, so no matter where you are when it comes to ability and experience, your bike will be constantly feeding back information that hopefully can be put to good use.

While there might be a few riders who can immediately recognize and solve a problem, for the majority (me included), it’s not that simple. In my experience what normally happens is something doesn’t feel quite right so some trial and error fiddling takes place, and when that doesn’t work I’ll consult the experts. I have two simple rules that come from learning the hard way through personal experience.

1. If something doesn’t feel quite right then it normally isn’t.
2. If you feel like you’ll crash should you try to ride any faster then you will.

It is impossible to quantify where this feel comes from, but always trust your instincts no matter how new you are to riding. Incidentally, on the grand scale of feel, right at the top there is Valentino Rossi. Somehow, he can process feel like no other (did you see Indianapolis?) then there is everyone else all the way down to you and me, trying to figure out how the hell he does it.

The problem with riding is there are so many factors that have to be spot on before you will get the perfect experience. I watch and work with loads of riders on track days and see that many are getting feedback telling them they’re not comfortable but are not always sure what to do about it.

For example, if your bike feels harsh over bumps and feels like it has no grip it could be something as simple incorrect tyre pressures. If setting the correct pressures doesn’t help then gradually softening the suspension might do. Running wide on the exit of corners is also a common problem where a possible remedy might be to stiffen up the rear suspension with some pre-load and/or compression damping. Always remember, if you do start playing with your suspension clickers, write your settings down before you begin just incase you make things worse.

And then there is leaning over. I’m convinced some times my bike just refuses to lean over. I’ll set off round a track and swear my St Andrews slider will never again need to be replaced. But this is only my tyres and suspension cleverly telling me ‘we’re not warm yet so don’t force it or we’ll all be upside down.’ My rule of thumb is six miles before I attempt any serious angles of lean.

When it comes to brakes the warning signs are pulsing or juddering through the lever or pedal. This can sometimes be a wheel out of balance but it is more likely to be a warped disc caused by your brakes being hammered from cold or being up to maximum temperature and stopping immediately. The best way to check is to get your bike on a stand and spin the wheel while holding a straight edge against the disc.

Out of balance wheels are more likely to give you a judder through the handlebars but sometimes only at a certain speed. Quite often, although you feel it through the bars and think it is the front wheel, it can be the rear that is the problem so it’s best to check them both. I thought I had a balance issue recently with my NR 750. It turned out the chattering was from a flat spot on the front tyre, probably because it had stood in the same position for 10 years. She’s now up on front and rear stands for the next 10...

Clutches are also worth looking after. If your bike is difficult to get into gear or is trying to pull forward even the slightest bit with the clutch in, get it adjusted quick or things could get expensive. A few turns of the lever adjuster should do the trick. You should use the same adjuster but the opposite way if your lever is nearly all the way out before you pull away. Also if, like me, you are mechanically sympathetic and have the strength, it does no harm to push your bike forward a few paces before clunking it into first gear, especially when the engine is stone cold. Unfortunately, quite often the ideal suspension set up, proper tyre pressures and perfect brakes are not enough for complete satisfaction. I’ve known riders that have bought the latest ‘must have’ sports bike and then hated it with a passion. As every rider is a different size and weight and has a different riding style, not every bike (or tyre) suits every rider. I once went on a Yamaha R6 launch and was totally unimpressed, but when I rode the same model back in the UK on different tyres, I thought it was stunning.

Different tyres can transform a bike’s handling characteristics. I’ve also met lots of owners that have never enjoyed their bikes purely because of the riding position. Your shape, size and riding style need to compliment the bike so I would always try before I buy, as there is limited adjustment potential on most bikes. The final and arguably most important part of a motorcycle that talks to the rider is of course the engine. With the exception of the latest 170bhp 1000cc four cylinders, which can be ridden like a twist and go in any gear, every other asks for a different riding technique. The 600 supersport machines may have some midrange now but still need to be revved hard to achieve total satisfaction. Revving them right to the red line though isn’t always necessary, as you will feel the power tail off before this point so this is the cue to change up.

When it comes to big twins they cry out to change up through the gears at much lower revs. Going anywhere near maximum revs is normally a pointless exercise with these and you’ll waste a chunk of lovely torque in the process. With the smaller twins the technique is the same however the window of useable power is much smaller. The glorious Triumph triples fall somewhere in the middle and many would argue these give you the best of both worlds.

There is no easy way to learn ‘feel’ except to gradually gain experience through riding. When it comes to suspension it has to be lots of trial and error. Remember, while you might fine tune it for a track day, it will always be a compromise for the road. Otherwise, stay relaxed, be smooth let your bike do the talking - and listen.

things to remember • Trust your instincts. If something doesn’t feel right, it probably isn’t. Talk to the experts. • Pushing harder when your bike feels wrong will normally land you in trouble. So don’t do it. • If you are going to make suspension changes, write down your original settings before you start. • If you are unhappy with the way your bike feels, different tyres could transform it. • The slightest pulsing through a brake lever or pedal needs attention immediately as this could be dangerous. • Your engine will tell you how it wants to be ridden. Avoid forcing the motor to the red line and labouring the transmission when riding in gears that are too tall.


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